Thanks folks for putting the question in reasonable terms.... The desire is, once you can make more than ebay turbo kits worth of horsepower, are you making a drag car, or something which still maintains a bit of that sportscar feel? :-) Very interested in transients.

I would assume what he means though (which I see with my own turbo, spools slow cause it was $200 from ebay and is poorly tuned) is that as you exit a corner and *ease* into it so you don't come off the tarmac, that alone is enough to build boost.

Perhaps a better question is can we have some logs where it builds fast - i.e. over 5,000 rpm.

 

I'm sure it was mentioned a while ago, but what rear end is in the car?

 

Leonid's


I think he has a 4.3 (See post 39)

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e2/#post824501

 

3.9

 

So a Torsen holds this kinda power?

 

On the street at least. I have strong doubt it would got together long on a vht prep'ed surface and/or with slicks.

 

Its a tochigi fuji diff. You know, from an 03. The one everyone hates.

 

Long time ago i read that RX7 diff bolts right in and its near bullet proof? That true or no?

 

not many broke them yet =/= bulletproof.

but yeah its supposed to be quite a bit more stout

 

Which one? There's a clutch type that drops right into our housing from an rx7, but that still leaves the r&p to break. You're not going to break the clutch setup itself, but the rx7 clutch type that swaps in also sucks. There's also an rx7 housing that uses a stronger r&p and the same rear mounts as us but you need to fab a PPF adapter and get a custom driveshaft, and you really should use that rx7 cover on the longer nose 929 case.

 

By the time you **** with all that ****, i'd just be buying a bolt in 8.8 setup, thanks.

 

Ah, but there's still plenty of issues with the bolt in 8.8 setup that you really need to modify them (and the subframe) to do it properly.

 

You need to modify the bolt in subframe, the bolt in diff, the bolt in driveshaft, and the bolt in axles in order to bolt it all in properly?

 

Yes.

 

Explain yourself. I'm going with the Getrag/CTS-V rear setup, but this is still relevant to my interests.

 

Someone has a thread on here, something about either the axle angle or pinion angle and that the sub frame was a waste of money since the modifications to the stock one make it sit better and are wicket easy.

 

Know how i know you're from Massachusetts?

 

I says so under my avatar?

 

I hate being beat to the anti-joke.

 

Doesn't someone, maybe V8R, make a 7.7 kits and 8.8 kits? They definitely make a SUPER easy getrag RPO g80 setup and the differential itself is extremely cheap (less than $300).