Ok, so, I'm sure you've seen this, but....



Anyway, how's car?

 

I got some new parts

First, a Sparco Champion steering wheel. I've bene craving it for ages and figured that after 3 years of poverty ebay steering wheel... I can upgrade.



Had this laying around for a few months...


Got my flat-top bead blasted today. $25 and <1 hr turnaround time. Norfolk is sure nice for cheap labor...

 

Nice! Is there any porting needed to match the intake to the TB?

 

yes, the diameter needs to be enlarged about 5mm, maybe more.
I don't have any grinder at the moment so I just did it with a hand file. I did a shitty job

 

Couple things for the sunk2. There is a little flat head screw that the throttle idle stop presses on. Take that screw out and red loctite it in. 2nd, did you also get a longer bolt for the other idle screw you dont show? The one that passes through the plate and into the throttle body? Do that, and blue loctite it in. C, the brass flat head bleed screw likes to work its way out a lot. I've given up on mine and just cranked it all the way in hard and set idle with the stop.

 

Yes, mine was about 2-3mm difference in diameter. Trying to find a picture.....

 

I'm digging that wheel. Need moar blue though.
Is the throttle body worth it? I'm thinking since I'm doing a fabbed intake I can choose from any throttle body I want.

 

Is your engine worth $250 of insurance against eating a throttle body screw?

 

I dunno. I bought on a whim and kind of regretted spending that kind of $$$ on a throttle body.

The steering wheel is glorious. Feels like sex in hands.

 

You don't know you need a throttle body until it's too late.

 

I'm not sure I get how that'd be possible. But no.. I'd want to kill myself if something happened to my engine.
Throttle body = the bigger the better, correct?

Now I'm lost. Sorry Sav. :(

Edit:
Soviet, what camera are you using? These pictures look legit.

 

stock tb tends to fall apart under heavy use and high revs and sends screws into the engine

 

The stock weak throttle body has a common side effect of cracking and allowing the screws holding the plate fly into your engine.

 

love the wheel btw
its like a less girly version of the nardi corn

 

Ok, I get 1 and 3 but 2, wtf? what longer bolt?

 

When I used the supplied bolt it only threaded in like 1 turn, I had to go to the hardware store during a racing school and buy one and use a washer to space it out because my iac fell halfway off while driving.

 

I got it for several reasons
- 330mm vs much more common 350mm or 360mm. I like smaller wheels.
- 65mm dish vs 90 or 30mm. I will run a quick-release in the future and didn't want the wheel up in my chest.
- perforated leather feels good and lasts longer than suede
- red accents are better than yellow

For quick release I will probably get the Miatacage setup
http://www.miatacage.com/products/55...r-splined.aspx
+
http://www.miatacage.com/products/58...ghtweight.aspx

 

Yeah, I did notice that. Actually both IAC bolts barely thread at all.

cool story

 

Lol.

That miata cage QR, is a whole lot of money for a splined QR that is going to have more play than a ball bearing style like the NRG after a year or two. Spline style just wear out, it sucks.

 

I'll just lube it up.

Other option is LTB quick release but they are even more expensive
LTB Quick Release Kits & Spacers


I like that the miatacage QR mounts straight to the steering shaft with no hubs to deal with.