diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
The ducting is awesome! I'm running with mat 15 over ambient (35+ celsius) and coolant 85 cruising and 95 driving hard... never be so cold, even this winter!
Only big difference is the undertray, it's the first time I installed one.
C6 coils are arrived with pigtails, just bought the spark wires too




Only big difference is the undertray, it's the first time I installed one.
C6 coils are arrived with pigtails, just bought the spark wires too




Skunk2 arrived





Beautiful piece, everything is cnc made
Billet gears are now installed into a housing (thanks curly!), other misc are arrived, like 2.75-2.5 reducer for the skunk2, new 10AN line for the oil return, new set of gaskets, all ARP for head, mains, rods and flywheel too, gates timing belt and adjustable pulleys.
Everything will be balanced this time. Engine will be opened soon





Beautiful piece, everything is cnc made
Billet gears are now installed into a housing (thanks curly!), other misc are arrived, like 2.75-2.5 reducer for the skunk2, new 10AN line for the oil return, new set of gaskets, all ARP for head, mains, rods and flywheel too, gates timing belt and adjustable pulleys.
Everything will be balanced this time. Engine will be opened soon
This week I opened the engine, everything was fine, no signs of det on the pistons, just very dirty because of the supertech rings
Crankshaft was balanced with pulley, flywheel and clutch. Rod bearings are good, but the mains have to be changed with std ones
oil pump machined to accomodate billet gears

Detailing made by a friend (thanks again!!)


time to open the engine! Notice the dark inside of the intake manifold... too much overlap! I have to reduce it.


rod bearings


going to the machine shop

done!

the reason why mains are to be changed

and why the rod bearings are good

pistons before cleaning

almost cleaned

Gutting the intake for the skunk2



ARP bolts arrives next week, around 2-3 hours to close the engine and I can begin the break-in!
Crankshaft was balanced with pulley, flywheel and clutch. Rod bearings are good, but the mains have to be changed with std ones
oil pump machined to accomodate billet gears

Detailing made by a friend (thanks again!!)


time to open the engine! Notice the dark inside of the intake manifold... too much overlap! I have to reduce it.


rod bearings


going to the machine shop

done!

the reason why mains are to be changed

and why the rod bearings are good

pistons before cleaning

almost cleaned

Gutting the intake for the skunk2



ARP bolts arrives next week, around 2-3 hours to close the engine and I can begin the break-in!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
First problem: blown head gasket
At idle it runs on 3 cylinders, smokes white and burns coolant
When I installed the head with arp's I scretched the head surface on the arp's, that's the only reason it comes in my mind
At idle it runs on 3 cylinders, smokes white and burns coolant
When I installed the head with arp's I scretched the head surface on the arp's, that's the only reason it comes in my mind
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
Could also be that you're simply running more boost than you should be. I know on my car, we could make more boost but couldn't make more power. Something to keep in mind.
Really should get it on a proper dyno with the power and boost levels you're running.
Really should get it on a proper dyno with the power and boost levels you're running.
I just ordered cometic HG, since I was using the ebay one, and AEM WI noozle, pump and everything else I need to run safer and with moar boost
AEM calculations said that if I use 50-50 water methanol the afr reading is a point richer than real, so if I run 11.5:1 I have to read 10.5:1
is it right?
AEM calculations said that if I use 50-50 water methanol the afr reading is a point richer than real, so if I run 11.5:1 I have to read 10.5:1
is it right?





















