diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 396
Total Cats: 56
From: Sardinia, Italy
don't tell me this please! 
wait? Are you sayin that I can... wait?
these are the water ports
And... done!
The only way to install the downpipe is from the upside, removing the rod under the gearbox. That's the only thing required to install it, after that it can be reinstalled
I could try this solution, but where I can find the right springs?
wait? Are you sayin that I can... wait?
these are the water ports
And... done!
The only way to install the downpipe is from the upside, removing the rod under the gearbox. That's the only thing required to install it, after that it can be reinstalled
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
Kitty awarded for TSE trubo kit ****.
I used to think this way, but after owning Xidas I no longer feel that way. Shocks that are comfy on the street are too soft for a smooth track with sticky tires, and shocks that are stiff enough to avoid wallowing on the track are too stiff for the street.
I run 700/400 spring rates on my car, and I seriously would be OK daily driving it. If you want a truly sweet street ride while still having good track performance, going one step softer to 650 or 600 front and 350 rear would likely be a very very nice setup.
I will not do a flat rate shock setup again now that I've seen how effective adjustable shocks can be in terms of comfort and performance.
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
I run 700/400 spring rates on my car, and I seriously would be OK daily driving it. If you want a truly sweet street ride while still having good track performance, going one step softer to 650 or 600 front and 350 rear would likely be a very very nice setup.
I will not do a flat rate shock setup again now that I've seen how effective adjustable shocks can be in terms of comfort and performance.
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Serious or trolling? Proper damping changes based on surface condition and pavement quality. Super smooth tracks or roads can get away with very low rebound damping because there's nothing to upset the chassis. Start throwing in some pavement undulations and kerbs and you start to need more rebound to control the chassis appropriately. The higher rebound required at the rougher track will make the car slower at the smoother track. All high-end shocks are adjustable. You can have a good non-adjustable shock, but the adjustment allows the shock to be optimal in more situations.
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The people I have encountered with adjustable shocks on a street car always have too little spring and they end up overcompensating with damping which leads to jacking down. Or they have too much spring for the car to be comfortable on the street and dialing the adjustable rate down only makes the car uncontrolled on rough pavement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass.
It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable.
Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass.
It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable.
Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement.
Last edited by sixshooter; Apr 22, 2016 at 08:34 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 396
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From: Sardinia, Italy
Just finished to tune just the ve table and wow... it's... wow
I thought my car was fast but, now... well it's another thing
yes, italian roads are devastated, and it's an euphemism
Do you think that the tein flex have a wrong spring ratio for the miata?
I thought my car was fast but, now... well it's another thing
The people I have encountered with adjustable shocks on a street car always have too little spring and they end up overcompensating with damping which leads to jacking down. Or they have too much spring for the car to be comfortable on the street and dialing the adjustable rate down only makes the car uncontrolled on rough pavement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass.
It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable.
Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass.
It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable.
Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement.
Do you think that the tein flex have a wrong spring ratio for the miata?
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Yes, the Tein has bad spring rates for a Miata. There should be a greater difference between front and rear. That setup would likely generate significant oversteer with most sway bar combinations. Unless your trunk has a spare engine block in it they would be bad.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 396
Total Cats: 56
From: Sardinia, Italy
Tonight I was tuning open loop ebc and just the ve table, this is the result:
red is the very first log
There are three possibilites:
-the tyres are slipping in 4th
-the clutch is gone
-I'm really making 466hp at 21psi
I just ordered a new clutch, hoping it's its fault
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
very nice work sir. I think you're the first person to actually pour the boost to a TSE kit, no?
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