diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
#367
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
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Do you have the diff protected form the heat of the new exhaust pipe? You are making a lot more heat than stock now and the heat destroys the fluid. How long since you had changed the rear diff fluid?
#368
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sardinia, Italy
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Well, actually no... The pipe is running very close to the diff
The oil had around 1000 km when it started to whistle.
This evening even this open diff started to whistle... fresh oil of course
It lived three days
#370
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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Maybe it can be the use of the car?
I live in the middle of a place that is very similar to a track. Almost every night is like a 15 minutes session, and the last two days I abused my mx5.
Hell, I did several second gear launches... around 3 seconds wheelspin (not joking)
I live in the middle of a place that is very similar to a track. Almost every night is like a 15 minutes session, and the last two days I abused my mx5.
Hell, I did several second gear launches... around 3 seconds wheelspin (not joking)
#375
Man, that looks like a really fun drive home from work, lol.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now.
#377
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sardinia, Italy
Posts: 396
Total Cats: 56
Man, that looks like a really fun drive home from work, lol.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now.
Maybe the crush sleeve is the cause of the broken diff(s)?
from Weir Performance - Solid Pinion Spacer Kits
Our solid pinion spacer kits are over 3X stronger than the typical o.e.m. crush sleeves. What does all this mean? What these parts do when correctly installed is set the distance between the inner and outer pinion bearings (bearing preload). At the same time, these parts also locate the pinion gear relative to the ring gear within the casing. So, why does the crush sleeve fail? It fails because it is too weak to resist deflection when high pinion loads are applied. This is why we often hear people say, “my ring and pinion finally blew up”. The failure is not instantaneous as it would be if the gears were over-powered. The failure happens over time, due to repeated hard driving. High pinion loads deflect the pinion gear over and over until the o.e.m. crush sleeve becomes “loose” and cannot properly maintain the bearing preload. This also allows the position of the pinion gear within the casing to move causing misalignment of the ring and pinion gears. Over time, this leads to “howling” gears followed by “ground up” gear teeth and eventually destroys the gears. Protect your ring and pinion with one of our high strength steel solid pinion spacer kits. All kits come with instructions and shim sets.