Can you please try to find another inexpensive 3.636 ring and pinion for me? I need one too.

 

It started to whistle too?
I can ask

 

Any luck on the 3.63?

 

yes, 120 euro + shipment. Want?

 

<p>Helluva deal, that.</p>

 

Yes. I'll send you a PM.

 

Greddy boost meter installed. Very cool

 

I have gears from Emilia Romana. Grazie!

 

Third r&p damaged. This time the second day after assembly.
Brand new bearings, oil seals, good oil and used but almost perfect r&p.

fuuuu

 

 

Who is assembling the diff? Given the short life, I'm really thinking it's not setup correctly since you're the first person I've ever heard of going through 3 diffs this quickly!

I also have the Weir crush sleeve I bought a while back. My guess if anything is failing in your diff, it's the OEM crush sleeve moving, letting the gears walk and destroy themselves.

 

The assembly was made by the local machine shop.. following the mazda specs
about the weir's solid spacer: I asked them a couple of weeks ago (16 days actually) and never get the answer. They don't have an e-shop, just mail contacts

Now I'm finding another r&p...
I'm hopeless

 

Weir took 1 or 2 months to get back to me. I think he makes them in batches and didn't have them when I emailed him. He was making them when he emailed me back.

I would question them setting up the diff since it's failed for you so soon. You can buy this paint they sell for checking the pattern on the gears, and check it yourself when you get the diff back to verify that the gears are meshing correctly. You'll need a 6-7" micrometer to measure the caps to check those.

 

I just called weir, told him I blew up a diff and had a race in 2 weeks and I got the tracking number later that day.

 

 

don't talk, you traitor

 

Nooooooo!

 

The car was still waiting the fourth diff (on its way to home, I hope the adventure is finished)
the only mod that I've done is an ld bluetooth module for the ms2 and an egt sensor fron depo racing. Cool gauge: uses a stepper motor like the greddy one


I choose to read the cilynder #4, as close as possible to the head







The gauge, painted black (was silver)



couple of days ago: my car at the center, the one at the right is a BP supercharged (stock engine), at the left a stock B6 prepping for turbo build (stage2 clutch and lightweight flywheel), and the silver one is stock (for now )

 

Today I linearized the oem oil pressur gauge, because I've bought a 100psi pressure transducer a couple of mounths ago and now it's the time to install it.



I choose the oem gauge because is cheap and easy to use.

The concept is intuitive: the gauge has three terminals: 12v, GND and oil pressure. If you put the third terminal to gnd, the gauge indicates zero, and if you leave the terminal open, it indicate the maximum.
Since the transducer is an active 5v sensor (like the mpx4250 map sensor) the simplest interface is to use a micro. A cheap one, like the attiny85 is way more than enough.
A BC639 will put the terminal to gnd, but using pwm we have a resolution of 256 steps.

Here is a video of me using a pot as an analog input:


A led is lit up when the pressure is under 1 bar (14.5 psi) o whatever pressure you want.

what I used:

stripboard, an attiny85, a 78L05 (or L7805), a BC639 or equivalent, a 220 and 1k 1/4W resistor,and a led.

Tomorrow some updates

 

Badass.