let's see the MLV.

when a 2.0L wrx takes til 2600 to make 10psi and you're claiming that on a BP (or B6?) with a simple log and 2.25 exhaust, I'm thinking you're being pretty optimistic

 

Read, i already said that 10 psi at 2500rpm was in 5th gear, i dont have any 4th gear pulls but i posted a 3th gear pull above

Or wait, these can also be faked

 

let's see the log from the screen shot you just posted
I'm preparing to be impressed

 

Here is the log, car wasnt running good, looses to much power at top due top some boost leak.

And the last log in 2016 was better, first drive after long time because i had to fix some problems. A day later the car was totaled, so wasnt able to tune it better

 

ok now I'm impressed

you get a +cat

I guess ebc at 100% duty til 2600rpm really helps even with a straw-like exhaust.

was it running CL boost control? did it ever hit cut?

 

Probably, EBC was a huge improvement after some tuning with the PID

Edit: yes closed loop. But hit cut? I dont understand exactly what you mean.

If i dont reply anymore im sleeping. Its 4 o clock at night overhere. So im really tired.. lol

 

Mine doesn't like sitting at 1800rpm in 4th gear it's a max 3rd gear rpm for mine really, it's a 5 speed with a 4.1 Diff. It feels like I'm setting off in 2nd gear from a stop for the first second or so. Or is that the same for everyone?

 

2560R, MBC, ARTech, with a bunch of my stuff n stuff. 3" pipe laid here. AFR's are less than desirable. Much less, but getting there...





5th gear, steep incline hill.
PSI

1- 1600
2- 1880
4- 2500
6- 2845
8- 3050
10- 3230
12- 3440
14- 3725
16- 4060
17- 4190

 

Finally got the engine running in a new car, This time a 1999 NB

Same specs as in my NA except for the 3" exhaust and the new firmware, still can get the boost control settings right. little different with the bias settings.. Sometimes it overshoots and goes into overboost. My target at the moment is 200kpa. Will up that later when its running good Only drove about 2 hour total now


Engine: NB 1884cc forged
Turbo: TD04L
Manifold: Sturovo log
Downpipe Size/Style: 2.75"
Exhaust Size: 2.25
Exhaust Components: Stainless
Intercooler Core Size: BIG
Intake Manifold: Stock NB
Headwork: Stock NB head
Engine Management: Megasquirt3x
Other Spoolin' Helpers/Hurters: EBC, lightweight flywheel out of the HM kit from FM, 3" straight exhaust
Trans & Rear End Ratio: 5-speed, 4.1
Rear tire size: 195/50/15



4th Gear

RPM PSI

2197 -2.1
2278 2.2
2399 4.1
2504 6.0
2618 7.8
2732 10.1
2834 12.4
2918 14.4

Second run also 4th gear
2069 0.1
2137 2.1
2229 4.2
2409 6.6
2508 8.0
2602 10.0
2730 12.0
2834 14.6
2947 16.8
3125 20.3

 

Basic out of the box FM No electronics kit. 157K on original engine.
2000 NB 1.8
Turbo: Garrett 2560R
Manifold: FM log
Downpipe Size/Style: New style FM 2.5"
Exhaust Size: 2.5"
Exhaust Components: Stainless
Intercooler Core Size: FM Intercooler
Intake Manifold: Stock NB
Headwork: Stock NB head
Engine Management: FIC/6
Other Spoolin' Helpers/Hurters: TurboSmart MBC, TurboFuse, lightweight flywheel, FM,2.5" Highflow cat & turbo muffler.
Trans & Rear End Ratio: 5-speed, 4.1 (swapped)
Rear tire size: 195/50/15 BFG Comp-2s on 7.5" wheels.

4th Gear pull
RPM PSI
2458 1.1
2476 2.1
2557 3.0
2560 4.1
2687 5.2
2706 6.2
2758 7.0
2863 8.1
3127 9.0
3246 10.0 (hit speed limit)

 

Well both of those posts, seem to argue the 3" exhaust pretty well. Similar set ups, the 3" spools considerably faster.

 

4th gear 1994 miata 1.8 engine 5 speed
Turbo- TD04HL-16T from Volvo S60 T5
Small ebay intercooler
4.1 rear dif ratio, torsen
195/50 r15 tires
3" DP + 2.5" exhaust

MAT is in Celsius

 

Why has boost response never been measured here. As in steady state cruise at a given rpm/no boost to WOT/XX boost for say 1s. After that I don't care what it does. I'd like to see three standardized rpm points like 3500, 4500, 5500. The lag in boost returning after closing the throttle has been my personal litmus test, not how the boost build from a WOT roll on from low rpm. Why?, because the roll on is irrelevant. Who drives like that? Boost response after closing the throttle is how we actually drive it.

In 2006 when I had an intercooled GT2554R running on an emanage Ultimate with a 2.5" straight pipe, I datalogged it getting to 4-6psi in about 200ms and rising to 10psi in less than 1s at anyhing above about 3000rpm. Unfortunately I no longer have the program that opens those logs. Pretty much replicates. Andrew's posts from 2008

 

So if I am understanding you correctly Emilio, you are saying that we start out in 'x' gear at 3,500 on flat ground and step on it full throttle and measure the boost built in one second?

What gear do you propose? Maybe this should be a separate thread, or do you think it should be added on as a separate measurement on this one?

 

Maybe separate thread? I'm curious to see how the EFRs stack up against the best Garrett installations

 

I'll certainly give it a try at my first opportunity.

I am also curious to see if gear matters substantially at all. As this is a racing concern, what gear would you be in when you hit the throttle and needed instant (or as close to it) response?

If done on a dyno, I bet torque and HP would be nice to see along the same curve.

 

I think 3rd or 4th would be most relevant to track, maybe 2nd for autocross. So maybe 3rd, split the difference?

 

I agree. 3rd gear steady state cruise on a levelish road starting at 4000 rpm. Immediate WOT. 2-3 second log should be enough to see what we're after. Most turbo's should light pretty quick under these conditions. I second the start a new thread notion.

 

Do we measure from the the moment we go full throttle when the TPS hits 100% or from a steady state cruise lets say 10% tps and from there on?


from steady cruise TPS to 100% TPS is about 150ms on my logs

 

I think the log should start at some small TPS so maps is at lean cruise, say 45-65kpa. Go WOT and log for say 3s or so, just to show boost response.