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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-13-2014, 12:07 AM   #501
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if you're hoping to use the same bolt that you had in there that was holding the compressor bracket, you'll either have to cut it down, or just get a new, shorter one.

get what fail wagon said to get and you'l be good to go
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Old 09-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #502
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I just used one from my bucket of bolts and cut it to size.
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Old 09-13-2014, 03:34 PM   #503
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I have you all beat in the "jesus christ you are a lazy ******" department

2am solution:



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Old 09-13-2014, 03:44 PM   #504
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Old 09-13-2014, 04:30 PM   #505
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Propz sir. Brilliant.
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Old 09-13-2014, 04:32 PM   #506
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It was actually Gesso's idea, the 11mm socket is on his Exocet
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Old 09-13-2014, 05:41 PM   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impuls View Post

Well ****, thats not cool at all. O.o
I wonder if one of these will work?
45mm is the correct length. Longer than that will bottom out and require a washer or two.
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Old 09-13-2014, 06:24 PM   #508
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IIRC I just ordered mine from mazda because its a specific length and the standard sizes to either side are either too long or too short and from mazda it was the same money as buying the 5 or whatever I would have had to get from mcmaster.
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:17 PM   #509
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I have you all beat in the "jesus christ you are a lazy ******" department

2am solution:



gimme your paypal, imma send you 5$
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:10 AM   #510
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I put a 40mm bolt in there right now barely threads but the hardware store wasn't open.
I'll get the 45mm but you guys are scaring me with this.

I found a boost leak yesterday while over at some miata buddies house, they were doing 1.6>1.8 breaks, I was ******* off like usual.
The little VTCS electric valve I think or something on the back of the intake manifold was leaking boost bad. So I plugged the ports going to that.
Still only 10psi, Maybe wastegate spring "settled"?

BUT
Also, when all else fails I developed a weird issue...
Usually only after start up and drive for a bit, hit boost a few times and it goes away. But tonight coming home from work after idling to jump a persons car it did it ALL the way home. (like 1.7mi :P)

But partial throttle, AFRs skyrocketed.
It also did this the night I looked for my boost leak. After I left my friends house to go home. Car jerked and bucked. Didn't see too much AFR's then though.

I never fail you guys! Issues ALLTHETIME.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:36 AM   #511
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Do yourself a favor, buy a new whole car wire harness and put it in your car. replace the whole thing.

all of these issues you've had over the last.... since OP.... could have been avoided since you have ratty wiring.
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:32 PM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Do yourself a favor, buy a new whole car wire harness and put it in your car. replace the whole thing.

all of these issues you've had over the last.... since OP.... could have been avoided since you have ratty wiring.
I don't see how anything correlates to "ratty wiring" when it's just a stock harness. O2 system is wired in fine. That's the only thing I could imagine messing up anything. Nothing else has been modified really besides extending the coolant sensor wires.
Don't get me wrong, I'd love to just tear apart the car and start new. But no garage.

The car is undrivable now. Vacuum leak or something.
Was going to go grab that 45mm bolt go to start it and datalog see if what happened last night will happen after cold start and... yeah you can say it did
I took a datalog of idle then I tried to drive around a bit

Just pops and putters with load. I tried looking for a Vacuum leak by spraying around everywhere with no luck.
Attached Files
File Type: msl Idle.msl (1.14 MB, 41 views)
File Type: msl Drive.msl (298.8 KB, 29 views)
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:35 PM   #513
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If you don't have a MAF, vacuum leak won't/shouldn't do that.
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:58 PM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
If you don't have a MAF, vacuum leak won't/shouldn't do that.
It's air density/MAP only.
What would cause -14inHg idle?

I'm going to test fuel pressure as well.

I'm going to be pissed if this is just "bad fuel" since I just switched gas stations I fill at.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:06 PM   #515
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A vac leak could cause those numbers at idle, but it probably won't make your car actually idle like ****.

Now on the other hand, your car idling like **** can and will give bad vac numbers.

Fun, huh?
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:11 PM   #516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
A vac leak could cause those numbers at idle, but it probably won't make your car actually idle like ****.

Now on the other hand, your car idling like **** can and will give bad vac numbers.

Fun, huh?
Y u do dis 2 me?

I'm checking fuel. Double checking timing and spark plugs.

This seemed to be a progressive thing the past 3 days and now today it's just bad.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:26 PM   #517
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you check for leaks around the injectors? like an o-ring?

-14 at idle is not good, and sounds like a pretty massive leak
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:36 PM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
you check for leaks around the injectors? like an o-ring?

-14 at idle is not good, and sounds like a pretty massive leak
Yeah I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. Upper manifold, TB, braje booster lines, injectors/rail, vacuum lines even all the way inside to the MS.

It seemed like I could hear a hissing but it could of been the **** idle.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:01 PM   #519
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Just for **** and giggles I started disconnecting coils.

Get to #4 > disconnect > runs better > connect runs worse > disconnect again > runs better.
Still have to check it out. Going to pull the plug and probably get an inspection camera in there, along with typical compression check and ****.
I'm a little scared now.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:40 PM   #520
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So it runs better on 3 than it does on 4?

/boggle
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