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Old 06-27-2014, 10:02 AM   #381
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do your fans come on? or does that only happen when the car is off too.

your car always seems to have had funky electrical issues.
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:13 AM   #382
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how's your cooling system routed?
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:35 AM   #383
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dude, you should know how to troubleshoot cooling system at this point. you're a big boy now!

Here are the top 6:
  1. Upper radiator hose is warm but the coolant gauge is showing overheating?
    thermostat stuck closed
  2. Idling the car the temperature climbs but driving is fine?
    fan don't come on
  3. Car overheats at highway speeds but fine at idle?
    duct that ****
  4. Car overheats at track straight while WOT
    get bigger radiator, duct that ****
  5. Feet sprayed with boiling coolant?
    heatercore cracked
  6. Replaced everything but car somehow still overheats?
    probably blew your headgasket


I personally never saw a water pump fail on a miata fail but its also possible
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:56 AM   #384
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7. Your monstrous IC blocks the entire rad opening:


IMO you should duct some air around your IC to get some fresh air to the rad since you will need to anyway even if there are other problems.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:03 PM   #385
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or get one of those begi pooper scoopers
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:11 PM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
7. Your monstrous IC blocks the entire rad opening:


IMO you should duct some air around your IC to get some fresh air to the rad since you will need to anyway even if there are other problems.
ahh i see...i actually...i see no radiator.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:21 PM   #387
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air is supposed to go through the ic not around it. but if there's no shrouding it just goes wherever is the least resistence, and with that uggo gaping hole front bumper and no shrouding, I bet its a recipe for having a bad time
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:23 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
air is supposed to go through the ic not around it. but if there's no shrouding it just goes wherever is the least resistence, and with that uggo gaping hole front bumper and no shrouding, I bet its a recipe for having a bad time
this is when too big is a bad thing

but yea, needs more duct tape...duct tape to make ducts...
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:25 PM   #389
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Hood needs more extractor as well. Think about it as adding more lightness!
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:20 PM   #390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN View Post

but yea, needs more duct tape...duct tape to make ducts...
And post hole digger to make holes for posts. /River

If there are ways for air to go through the mouth and not also go through the radiator then it is broken.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:33 PM   #391
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Not only that, but there needs to be a way for air to go through the mouth and NOT go through the IC before it gets to the rad. Right now it looks like everything that goes through the mouth will go through the IC. That means when you're in boost, your rad is being fed air that is approximately the same temp as the air entering the IC. It's hard for the rad to cool your coolant to 200F if it's only being fed air that is 200F.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:47 PM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
Not only that, but there needs to be a way for air to go through the mouth and NOT go through the IC before it gets to the rad. Right now it looks like everything that goes through the mouth will go through the IC. That means when you're in boost, your rad is being fed air that is approximately the same temp as the air entering the IC. It's hard for the rad to cool your coolant to 200F if it's only being fed air that is 200F.
the intercooler is not nearly that effective, the air will not be 200F after intercooler.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #393
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Asphalt temperature is 130 degrees easily here in the summer.
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
If there are ways for air to go through the mouth and not also go through the radiator then it is broken.
QFT

Also props for Firefly reference
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:01 PM   #395
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The intercooler isn't your problem. If you can't drive the car more than ten miles out of boost and it's overheating, you've got something seriously wrong that ducting or whatnot can't fix.

Now if you're driving like a madman and overheating that's a different story. But if you can't piddle around without going over 210 then there's something else wrong. Go down Soviet's list and report back.
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:12 PM   #396
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The intercooler absolutely is the problem. Before huge intercooler, no overheating issues. After huge intercooler, overheating issues.

That doesn't mean it can't work with the new IC, just that you need to get some fresh air to the radiator in addition to sealing it to the mouth. You don't need much, it's a HUGE opening you have there. For a wild *** guess I would say duct the bottom 2 inches of the mouth below the IC straight to the rad and it would be enough, but it's gotta see some fresh air. Look at the size of the opening Crusher uses, it's not very big and that's an endurance car.
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:21 PM   #397
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what about radiator nitrous sprayer...
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:23 PM   #398
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I still think if you're overheating with fans on within 5 miles of reasonable driving, you've got another problem, not just the intercooler.
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:24 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN View Post
what about radiator nitrous sprayer...

Like... as a serious solution? Not a joke?
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:34 PM   #400
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Dude just take one of the windshield wiper sprayers and relocate it to in front of the rad. Then when the car overheats, just hit your wiper sprayer and cool it down!

Or even better, everyone knows that an expanding gas cools as it goes from high pressure to low pressure. Well you have some high-pressure gas right in front of your radiator! Just drill a hole in the back of your intercooler to release some high pressure gas in front of your radiator and cool it down!
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