But now that he's failed, its going to cost him an extra $10 to have a coated manifold than it needed to if he just did it right the first time.

 

I've never seen any of the home coating kits work worth a ****. There's no way around it, you're farming the job out if you want it done right.

I didn't do Swain, but my **** is rated to 2500F, and i made it very clear to the shop that if this **** flaked off, they were in for a world of hurt, since it's coated inside and out, and i don't want that **** going through my turbo.

They pretty much said "Do whatever the **** you want, you aren't damaging that ****."

$205 for the pieces you see there, including prep/blasting.

 

$10 says the coating flakes of the inside of the manifold within 2 months.

 

and what happens when some of it flakes off somewhere on the inside where you can't really see that it broke off? you cry about it, threaten "world of hurt" and they just laugh and tell you to pound sand.

I see no point in coating the inside of hotparts.

that said, its still 2 billion times better than what OP did

 

Maybe so. But, it's guaranteed, and i've been working with this shop for years. We'll see what happens.


Please note: I specifically voiced my concerns about coating the insides when i dropped off the parts, since i felt the same way, and was assured that it would not be a problem.

They guaranteed the coating for life of the motor, with the idea that if i exceed the temp rating, my motor is fucked anyways.

This isn't exactly a small time shop with no experience. They handle the coatings for most of the motors and stuff coming out of Gasoline Alley.

 

If you could actually get the coating to stick to the inside of the manifold it would prevent it from rusting on the inside and it would reduce the amount of heat transferred immensely. But its not possible to make a coating stick all that well to the inside, so when it flakes off it ***** up the turbine wheel.

 

Name of shop please. Would like to know all of my options.

 

I've never actually seen rust inside that manifold, coated or not. For whatever that's worth.

Also hadn't rusted at all even on the outside since the last time i blasted it 18 months ago.


The BeGi stuff on our Thooper Red Miata has similar looking coatings on the same parts, and it's holding up just fine. Not sure if the insides were done, though.


Indy Pro Kote.

 

awesomeness
man, your build is like a rollercoaster...it goes from yay, to awww to ouch to damn to yay

 

Marcus at Sharp customs on Johns RD right off of Hillsborough: Sharp Customs Home
Will be doing my coating. Small business guy, hard to get a hold of but, amazing work. (He did my roll bar)
In all honesty this was just something to do for the downtime of the car. But put a blanket over the housing and don't have to worry about it :P


"Impuls' build thread of building, complaining, progression, regression and stuff"
Yup, that's my life.

Just like my overheating issue now.
And Fab9 CoPs spark blowout.

Anyone selling an awesome radiator?


I did a compression check today
140, ~130, 140, 115-120

:/ I'm a little upset about the numbers on this pretty new engine. But may have been due to not tightening the tester all the way (it got stuck in #1)

 

those numbers look very low...and have more than 15% between them...right?

 

8:1 compression is reason for low numbers. I gotta find that formula they use to figure out what you should have

 

formula is CR*Atmospheric Pressure = Cylinder pressure
so 8.1*14.7(1BAR)=119.07psi

so, you should be good...

 

Except the swing between highest and lowest is still over 15%, which is not good.

 

That doesnt seem right. My 8.6:1 engine was making 165psi right after break in and I considered that to be on the low side. And the stock 9:1 NA8 engine is supposed to make 180psi.

 

i may have just took that out of my ***...

 

Well put it back in, baby.

 

 

i think it is also dependant on ring gap..being turbo having a loser gap is better for heat expansion a sopposed to na which benefits from tighter gaps.

 

Test again on warm motor.