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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 06-27-2014, 06:17 PM   #401
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I hate when you try to reply using your phone and it just resets everything.

I'll reply back when I can address all.
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Old 06-27-2014, 09:26 PM   #402
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I pretty sure it's airflow.

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Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
do your fans come on? or does that only happen when the car is off too.

your car always seems to have had funky electrical issues.
Fan (singular) wired constant. Because fail.

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Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN View Post
how's your cooling system routed?
Typical coolant reroute

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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
dude, you should know how to troubleshoot cooling system at this point. you're a big boy now!

Here are the top 6:
  1. Upper radiator hose is warm but the coolant gauge is showing overheating?
    thermostat stuck closed
  2. Idling the car the temperature climbs but driving is fine?
    fan don't come on
  3. Car overheats at highway speeds but fine at idle?
    duct that ****
  4. Car overheats at track straight while WOT
    get bigger radiator, duct that ****
  5. Feet sprayed with boiling coolant?
    heatercore cracked
  6. Replaced everything but car somehow still overheats?
    probably blew your headgasket


I personally never saw a water pump fail on a miata fail but its also possible
YOU'RE RIGHT I AM A BIG BOY NOW! hahahah come on Soviet, I'm not that .. everything gets HOT. Waterpump and thermostat are all practically new (almost everythings been replaced on this ******)
It's airflow. With stock radiator, and AC condenser in the way, with one fan, and massive intercooler.

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Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
7. Your monstrous IC blocks the entire rad opening:


IMO you should duct some air around your IC to get some fresh air to the rad since you will need to anyway even if there are other problems.
Exactly what I mentioned doing in an earlier post. I'm going to use the side port in the bumper and see if we can duct them.

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Originally Posted by BrilloHeadBen View Post
Hood needs more extractor as well. Think about it as adding more lightness!
I actually reealllly want to do this:


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Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
The intercooler absolutely is the problem. Before huge intercooler, no overheating issues. After huge intercooler, overheating issues.

That doesn't mean it can't work with the new IC, just that you need to get some fresh air to the radiator in addition to sealing it to the mouth. You don't need much, it's a HUGE opening you have there. For a wild *** guess I would say duct the bottom 2 inches of the mouth below the IC straight to the rad and it would be enough, but it's gotta see some fresh air. Look at the size of the opening Crusher uses, it's not very big and that's an endurance car.
Exactly nuge, but it is a new hot side setup too, coolant lines and stuff, but i doubt they're being superheated.

There isn't a bottom 2 inches to the mouth of the bumper. The IC LITERALLY mounts to the bumper(top and bottom) and creates ducting.




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Old 06-27-2014, 10:31 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impuls View Post
There isn't a bottom 2 inches to the mouth of the bumper. The IC LITERALLY mounts to the bumper(top and bottom) and creates ducting.
There's always a way to clear out some space
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:01 PM   #404
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You need to duct to the front of the opening of the mouth. Connect the radiator to the mouth, connect the intercooler straight back to the radiator, and duct the intercooler to the bumper too. BUT make 2 flaps that go to the front of the mouth from the intercooler that only end up with an opening 1/3rd the size of the intercooler core. You'll still get enough air through the intercooler but you'll get WAY more air to the radiator.
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:45 PM   #405
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is that a stock radiator too?
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:55 PM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
is that a stock radiator too?
That's what I think he said. Insert the emoticon for shooting yourself in the head.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:59 AM   #407
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yes, it is the stock one...lol.
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Old 06-29-2014, 11:58 AM   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
is that a stock radiator too?
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:02 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
You need to duct to the front of the opening of the mouth. Connect the radiator to the mouth, connect the intercooler straight back to the radiator, and duct the intercooler to the bumper too. BUT make 2 flaps that go to the front of the mouth from the intercooler that only end up with an opening 1/3rd the size of the intercooler core. You'll still get enough air through the intercooler but you'll get WAY more air to the radiator.
The bumper is ducting into the intercooler. I just need to duct the radiator up to the bumper I think.
The IC is flush mounted to the bumper so all that is ducted into it.

Except for around the end tanks and the 2 side holes in the bumper



All that room for ducting!
IC <space> AC Condenser > Radiator (with 1 stock fan).. It has to be airflow. I didn't think it would be this bad



The car is drivable just have to use the heater and keep out of highway speeds. But this is Florida and I can't


Other then that. The car is doing awesome with the stock coils.
My EWG has a huge spring in it though, I thought it was a 16psi one but I was hitting 20psi, before letting off, when actually going WOT.
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Impuls build-c360_2014-06-29-11-06-23-179_zps9fssxczh.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2014-06-29-11-06-36-302_zpsrldzswsx.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2014-06-29-11-07-24-924_zpshsyi1ho1.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2014-06-29-11-08-57-037_zpswde23pkd.jpg  
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:30 PM   #410
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Perhaps you should go full Bosozoku and just put the radiator in front of your bumper. When you think about it, it makes sense. Why put a nice radiator in the engine bay where girls can't see it? Plus, your dirty clothed fabricator can probably make you a tailpipe in the shape of a six foot tall *****. You can't lose!
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:15 PM   #411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrilloHeadBen View Post
Perhaps you should go full Bosozoku and just put the radiator in front of your bumper. When you think about it, it makes sense. Why put a nice radiator in the engine bay where girls can't see it? Plus, your dirty clothed fabricator can probably make you a tailpipe in the shape of a six foot tall *****. You can't lose!
:O He actually tossed me the idea of making my oil catch can in the shape of a *****.

I like the way you think!
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:12 PM   #412
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No I mean you need to make flaps on the IC that come from the sides of the core and angle in so that only 1/3 of it is open to the air, thats still enough air for the IC but it'll direct more around it.
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
No I mean you need to make flaps on the IC that come from the sides of the core and angle in so that only 1/3 of it is open to the air, thats still enough air for the IC but it'll direct more around it.
That's sounds awkward and bazaar. I can see how it would work. Have you seen any examples?
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:53 AM   #414
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You're gonna have a bad day.


Any time you can see the ground in front of the A/C condenser you are going to have a bad day.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:25 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Any time you can see the ground in front of the A/C condenser you are going to have a bad day.
Winner winner chicken dinner!
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:30 PM   #416
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How would you guys wire in the fans?
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:34 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impuls View Post
How would you guys wire in the fans?

Preferably with electrical wire, power and ground works pretty well for me.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:14 PM   #418
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Delphi Weatherpack connectors with crimp + solder on the pins. Though solder under the hood usually causes wailing and gnashing of teeth from the peanut gallery around here.
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:20 AM   #419
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Since my MS doesn't like to turn the fan on, I was thinking constant on with ignition w/ relay supplied with main power from alternator or engine fuse box to run fans.
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.

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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Preferably with electrical wire, power and ground works pretty well for me.
Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:45 AM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impuls View Post
Since my MS doesn't like to turn the fan on, I was thinking constant on with ignition w/ relay supplied with main power from alternator or engine fuse box to run fans.
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.



Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P
you could set the temp lower on the ms to turn on the relay sooner, can't you?
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