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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:38 AM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Test again on warm motor.
Twas warm, but it was after letting it cool so I could do CoPs.

I want to do it all again though, with a new tester (this one day in my trunk for a while), universally tightness, and no darkness/mosquitos passing me off.

I had to change my GM temp sensor that day and my coolant temp sensor too, but my coolant gauge in my cluster still wants to be on the downs.

Time for aftermarket 40mm?

But first things first, ignition issue needs solved. Or may be going back to stock coils for the time
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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My cluster coolant sensor didnt work either I somehow had a cut wire in the harness like way back where its 1 big tube of wires all taped up. No idea how the **** it happened.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
My cluster coolant sensor didnt work either I somehow had a cut wire in the harness like way back where its 1 big tube of wires all taped up. No idea how the **** it happened.
Really?
Yeah mine seems picky and choosy when it wants to work.
Most the time it's when engine is off, as soon as I start it it just plummet so I think its due from the vibration messing with the wires or something. Is funny sometimes it's in between working and not and goes crazy.

But I actually lied.
My main concern at this point is overheating, I need a ballsy radiator now, I have fans and going to get shroud fabbed up.

Also thinking about ducting the 2 smaller holes in my bumper to the radiator to bypass my massive intercooler
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:27 PM
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Yeah, thats what mine would do.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Yeah, thats what mine would do.
What did you end up doing, good sir?
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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I pulled on the wire on the harness side and found it pulled out, then I unwrapped the harness until I found the other end and connected it back together.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I pulled on the wire on the harness side and found it pulled out, then I unwrapped the harness until I found the other end and connected it back together.
Yeah, noo. It's 93° out right now
I hear a 40mm gauge fits in there. And from what I remember the begi coolant reroute adapter has plugged sensor ports
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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Or if one is purely looking for rust-protection, Cerakote is a great option. Cheaper than Swain and super durable, you just won't get much (if any) thermal benefits.

-Zach
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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I ended up putting a VDO gauge in my cluster. And during the install is when I found that the wire was broken and not that the gauge was borked.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #370  
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i wonder how shitty is this radiator?
Amazon.com: Dynasty RAMM982 Performance 2-Row Aluminum Racing Radiator For Mazda Miata: Automotive Amazon.com: Dynasty RAMM982 Performance 2-Row Aluminum Racing Radiator For Mazda Miata: Automotive

Attached Thumbnails Impuls build-71d1l5kjn1l._sl1500_.jpg  
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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Dat weld for the rad neck. I would say it looks exactly like the ebay one except for that ugly *** weld. Just offer $110 and free shipping on a godspeed one on ebay.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Dat weld for the rad neck. I would say it looks exactly like the ebay one except for that ugly *** weld. Just offer $110 and free shipping on a godspeed one on ebay.
i mean mishimoto should be the way to go...but on a budget...can't see how this isn't better than stock
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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I mean its got more thermal mass than stock but thats about it. I'm not convinced the ebay rads are actually any better at cooling than stock.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:01 PM
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https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...adiator-78937/

No association but... 4 bills for a 4 month used NB TSE right here in our classifieds. Duct the **** out of it and win at radiator. No provision for AC fan doe...
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:04 PM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by EO2K
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...adiator-78937/

No association but... 4 bills for a 4 month used NB TSE right here in our classifieds. Duct the **** out of it and win at radiator. No provision for AC fan doe...
You can fix that enough with one of the slim fans from silicone intakes.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
You can fix that enough with one of the slim fans from silicone intakes.
Yep. Any halfass Clever Dan should be able to figure out how to make something work
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
Yep. Any halfass Clever Dan should be able to figure out how to make something work
lol wut?
you do know 50% of the **** we do to our miatas are DIY half *** **** cuz nobody else makes it...

we are all "Clever Dan"s one way or another.
Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN
lol wut?
lol Leafy pointing it out
Old Jun 27, 2014 | 01:22 AM
  #379  
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I'm not on a budget. I want a ballsy radiator. But 400 is pushing it for a radiator even though they are 600 new.
I might as well find a place to buy the core. Everything else on my car is custom welded so far.
Anyone know any place for quality cores?

Yeah, I got 2 slim fans already. I should mount them to the stock rad for now but just seems like a waste.


My gauge decides to work when I turn off the car usually. So sick of not being able to go more than a 5mi radius.
Attached Thumbnails Impuls build-c360_2014-06-27-00-14-50-620_zpsmvijbyp6.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2014-06-27-00-14-41-079_zps5ztgiftx.jpg  
Old Jun 27, 2014 | 03:46 AM
  #380  
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Stuck Thermostat?



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