Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Twas warm, but it was after letting it cool so I could do CoPs.

I want to do it all again though, with a new tester (this one day in my trunk for a while), universally tightness, and no darkness/mosquitos passing me off.

I had to change my GM temp sensor that day and my coolant temp sensor too, but my coolant gauge in my cluster still wants to be on the downs.

Time for aftermarket 40mm?

But first things first, ignition issue needs solved. Or may be going back to stock coils for the time

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

My cluster coolant sensor didnt work either I somehow had a cut wire in the harness like way back where its 1 big tube of wires all taped up. No idea how the **** it happened.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Really?
Yeah mine seems picky and choosy when it wants to work.
Most the time it's when engine is off, as soon as I start it it just plummet so I think its due from the vibration messing with the wires or something. Is funny sometimes it's in between working and not and goes crazy.

But I actually lied.
My main concern at this point is overheating, I need a ballsy radiator now, I have fans and going to get shroud fabbed up.

Also thinking about ducting the 2 smaller holes in my bumper to the radiator to bypass my massive intercooler

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, thats what mine would do.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

What did you end up doing, good sir?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I pulled on the wire on the harness side and found it pulled out, then I unwrapped the harness until I found the other end and connected it back together.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, noo. It's 93° out right now
I hear a 40mm gauge fits in there. And from what I remember the begi coolant reroute adapter has plugged sensor ports

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Or if one is purely looking for rust-protection, Cerakote is a great option. Cheaper than Swain and super durable, you just won't get much (if any) thermal benefits.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I ended up putting a VDO gauge in my cluster. And during the install is when I found that the wire was broken and not that the gauge was borked.

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

i wonder how shitty is this radiator?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Dat weld for the rad neck. I would say it looks exactly like the ebay one except for that ugly *** weld. Just offer $110 and free shipping on a godspeed one on ebay.

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

i mean mishimoto should be the way to go...but on a budget...can't see how this isn't better than stock

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I mean its got more thermal mass than stock but thats about it. I'm not convinced the ebay rads are actually any better at cooling than stock.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...adiator-78937/

No association but... 4 bills for a 4 month used NB TSE right here in our classifieds. Duct the **** out of it and win at radiator. No provision for AC fan doe...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You can fix that enough with one of the slim fans from silicone intakes.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Yep. Any halfass Clever Dan should be able to figure out how to make something work

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

lol wut?
you do know 50% of the **** we do to our miatas are DIY half *** **** cuz nobody else makes it...

we are all "Clever Dan"s one way or another.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

lol Leafy pointing it out

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I'm not on a budget. I want a ballsy radiator. But 400 is pushing it for a radiator even though they are 600 new.
I might as well find a place to buy the core. Everything else on my car is custom welded so far.
Anyone know any place for quality cores?

Yeah, I got 2 slim fans already. I should mount them to the stock rad for now but just seems like a waste.


My gauge decides to work when I turn off the car usually. So sick of not being able to go more than a 5mi radius.

Zaphod

Stuck Thermostat?