330rwhp/258rwtq -- 1.8 motor w/1.6 Lysholm SC (upped boost)
#24
Start with mechanical (pneumatic) filtering.
The FPR tee tap location is a good one. If you still have noise, put a small restrictor in the vac line nearest the vac source. My buddy used a skinny polypropylene(?) line instead of regular rubber vac hose, and that worked for him. I think he got it from FM.
BTW that much noise in your MAP signal is gonna screw up your fueling. You may find your fueling will change after fixing the problem, but it will be consistent.
The FPR tee tap location is a good one. If you still have noise, put a small restrictor in the vac line nearest the vac source. My buddy used a skinny polypropylene(?) line instead of regular rubber vac hose, and that worked for him. I think he got it from FM.
BTW that much noise in your MAP signal is gonna screw up your fueling. You may find your fueling will change after fixing the problem, but it will be consistent.
#29
Quite the opposite... He said "my turbo makes same amount of TQ at 3k rpm, and more everywhere else". Not even seeing his dyno plot, just seeing his sig that he made 318whp, and knowing I made 330whp, that means that, by definition, I'm making more torque somewhere in my curve and that his statement was false.
#31
The motor started life as a stock smoking 99 motor from Panic Motorsports. It was then fully rebuilt with the following:
Block:
2002 Oil Pan
2002 Oil Pan Support Plate
2002 Oil Pump
949 Racing Rods
Wiseco Coated Pistons
ACL Main Bearings
ACL Rod Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs (218-5401)
Head:
Supertech 1mm Oversize Valves
Supertech valve springs/retainers/seats
The full rotating assembly was also balanced, without the clutch/flywheel, and then clutch/flywheel were balanced on the crank against themselves.
Induction/Exhaust:
Lysholm 1600AX (1.6L twin screw, last generation, not Whipple's newest, the W100AX)
Custom Corky Bell intake manifold
RB header
Custom 3" stainless exhaust
#33
His is a turbo setup, on stock cams. From 7-8 it's going to drop like a rock, if his motor build can even support safely running that high.
In any event, as I've stated, I'll still take my responsiveness over more torque. If I want more torque, all I need to do is keep bumping the boost, or upgrade to the W100AX, or jump to E85. All of these things are cheap compared to the 42k I've already put into the car. The issue with autocross is having too much torque to be usable. I'm slowly ramping up the torque 10% at a time until I run into a point that it's not usable anymore.
1st gear used to almost have traction on the old tune on asphalt, and now it doesn't, but 2nd gear still has good traction in a straight line. I can probably do another 10% bump and still be fine, but it might also make it harder to drive since I'll be buried into the traction control even more. Baby steps.
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09-30-2018 01:09 PM