you can tee the map sensor vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. generally, that's the best place.

my turbo makes same amount of TQ at 3k rpm, and more everywhere else. what boost?

 

Very interesting. Simple enough circuit to build. I'll have to give it a shot after the Packwood Pro next weekend on both there and my TPS (I get the same noisy crap on my TPS as you did.)

Now I just need a solution to why my crank angle sensor hates the 12+1 wheel.

Thanks for the help!

 

I have a custom manifold... There's one vacuum port I made near the manifold inlet, and it goes to the MAP sensor, the AFPR, and a boost gauge inside the car.

If you're only making 318whp, then you're making less somewhere.

 

Start with mechanical (pneumatic) filtering.
The FPR tee tap location is a good one. If you still have noise, put a small restrictor in the vac line nearest the vac source. My buddy used a skinny polypropylene(?) line instead of regular rubber vac hose, and that worked for him. I think he got it from FM.

BTW that much noise in your MAP signal is gonna screw up your fueling. You may find your fueling will change after fixing the problem, but it will be consistent.

 

I have a stock head but, yeah, my TQ drops off at high rpm. I need VVT and/or custom manifold.

You seriously need to post more specs...

 

Or you could slow that charger down a bit before it blows apart and add a trubo..


Impressive numbers.












Edit: Uhhhhh...... $41,727.63?? ---- me!!!

 

Impressive.

I want pics!!!

 

someone doesnt understand how math works...

 

Quite the opposite... He said "my turbo makes same amount of TQ at 3k rpm, and more everywhere else". Not even seeing his dyno plot, just seeing his sig that he made 318whp, and knowing I made 330whp, that means that, by definition, I'm making more torque somewhere in my curve and that his statement was false.

 

It's only going like 12500 RPMs -- that's way below the redline for the SC. It's a 1.6L unit, not the 1.2L that most people are using on Miatas.

Also, really confused what statement you're making with the Edit.

 

Copied from my wiki:

The motor started life as a stock smoking 99 motor from Panic Motorsports. It was then fully rebuilt with the following:

Block:
2002 Oil Pan
2002 Oil Pan Support Plate
2002 Oil Pump
949 Racing Rods
Wiseco Coated Pistons
ACL Main Bearings
ACL Rod Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs (218-5401)

Head:
Supertech 1mm Oversize Valves
Supertech valve springs/retainers/seats

The full rotating assembly was also balanced, without the clutch/flywheel, and then clutch/flywheel were balanced on the crank against themselves.

Induction/Exhaust:
Lysholm 1600AX (1.6L twin screw, last generation, not Whipple's newest, the W100AX)
Custom Corky Bell intake manifold
RB header
Custom 3" stainless exhaust

 

you make exact same HP at 7K, where he lifted. that's like dividing by zero!

 

By that logic, my dad's truck's curve owns mine too. It just stops at 3000 RPMs, and the fact that mine goes to 8000 and keeps making power the whole way is irrelevant.

His is a turbo setup, on stock cams. From 7-8 it's going to drop like a rock, if his motor build can even support safely running that high.

In any event, as I've stated, I'll still take my responsiveness over more torque. If I want more torque, all I need to do is keep bumping the boost, or upgrade to the W100AX, or jump to E85. All of these things are cheap compared to the 42k I've already put into the car. The issue with autocross is having too much torque to be usable. I'm slowly ramping up the torque 10% at a time until I run into a point that it's not usable anymore.

1st gear used to almost have traction on the old tune on asphalt, and now it doesn't, but 2nd gear still has good traction in a straight line. I can probably do another 10% bump and still be fine, but it might also make it harder to drive since I'll be buried into the traction control even more. Baby steps.

 

do it!

 

You have a traction control system? Racelogic?

 

Yeah, building a competitive autox car is an EXPENSIVE hobby.

 

Yeah. Racelogic is in there. I'm slowly getting it tuned to be better and better. You can hear the ignition burbling on tight corners with me trying to get power down and the RL telling me NO CAN HAZ.

 

:r ofl: