GT2554R Record??? leads to a run of the mill EFR build
2 Attachment(s)
Hey again everyone, back again with another dyno. So from the very beginning of my build all I wanted was the fattest torque curve possible on a stock motor, so naturally I started with a 1.6 (Just kidding don't Alt+F4 yet). I actually never intended on boosting this car but then I did so... here I am. As much as I loved my Begi churbo, the 135wtq @ 3500 wasn't fun anymore. So I went to a GT2554R. Then E85, LS coils, full 2.5" catless turbo-back, etc. Made 254/231 and 205wtq @ 3500. Then I threw a billet compressor wheel at it because I wanted more, and after the motor had already held up for 30,000+ miles of daily driving and autocross/drag events every 1-2 months, I figured it was healthy. Back on the same dyno in the same 90 degree temps, a little more boost and timing later, and the car is more alive than ever. I will have a full review/analysis/weights/measures video of the billet wheel vs. the stock wheel on my YouTube channel in a few days. Okokok, here it is:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456240564 Stuff that matters: "GTX"2554R 13psi, taper to 15.5psi from 5000-7000 (on purpose) Begi Cast Manifold E85 LS2 Truck Coils 7lb Flywheel MS2PnP 2.5" IC + Piping Five-0 750cc Injectors (Run Sequentially) Five-0 340lph Pump 2.5" Catless Turbo Back, DynoMax Race Bullet 5-Speed (4th gear pull) 3.9 Torsen 210K Mile 1.6L, Stock from the valve cover to the oil pan internally ATI Super Damper Tuning insight & oversight from the local turbo Miata master Toby @ Advanced Engine Dynamix Things that make me love this car: 150wtq @ 2750 200wtq @ 3400 200wtq @ 6900 Everything in between. |
Pretty cool, never seen a 2554 upgraded like that. solid setup overall, but you're definitely not touching a 1.8 torque curve
what are the measurements of the cast wheel vs gtx wheel? creep by default isn't "on purpose" you probably mean taper. and please post up your trap speeds from the 1/4 mile so we can tell you if that 276 is legit. either way though congrats on a solid setup |
My 1.6L $150 T3 had a better tq curve*. and i didnt have all the extra silly fueling mods to support 500hp with a 250rwhp turbo.
thanks for playing. you lose. but seriously, all that silly fueling, and good parts, and youre still running a 2.5" exhaust... *it was actually pretty similar, still just about as good as a 1.8L spooling a GT2871R |
You should post here moar often. :likecat:
Plot looks awsome, I bet it's a very fun vehicle. :bigtu: What kind of exhaust manifold are you using? |
Nice numbers. I wonder what a 3" exhaust upgrade would do for you.
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276/241 seems pretty crazy on a stock 1.6 with 2554, congrats.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1310292)
My 1.6L $150 T3 had a better tq curve. and i didnt have all the extra silly fueling mods to support 500hp with a 250rwhp turbo.
thanks for playing. you lose.
Originally Posted by Girz0r
(Post 1310293)
What kind of exhaust manifold are you using?
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1310290)
Pretty cool, never seen a 2554 upgraded like that. solid setup overall, but you're definitely not touching a 1.8 torque curve
what are the measurements of the cast wheel vs gtx wheel? creep by default isn't "on purpose" you probably mean taper. and please post up your trap speeds from the 1/4 mile so we can tell you if that 276 is legit. either way though congrats on a solid setup
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1310295)
Nice numbers. I wonder what a 3" exhaust upgrade would do for you.
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240 torqz at 13 psi on a 1.6 = 80 ft-lbs/atmo/L
I call bullz. Dyno calibration is off. |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1310304)
240 torqz at 13 psi on a 1.6 = 80 ft-lbs/atmo/L
I call bullz. Dyno calibration is off. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310300)
Would like to compare dyno's if you still have yours available, just out of curiosity.
Begi Cast Sorry, fixed the terminology, haha. The core of the wheel is much more slim so the blades measure longer. (13.2mm "primary" blades, 11.2mm (secondary" blades vs 14.8mm "primary" and "secondary" on the billet.) The billet wheel is also 34g compared to 44g so I'm sure that helps with response. I mostly made the 1.8 comment to bring in all the 1.8-heads to prove me wrong, and I couldn't find a dyno on here of a stock 1.8 that looked any better than mine. No doubt they have more potential. I haven't run it yet since I only did this Saturday, but I ran 87.54mph in the 1/8 when I was at 254whp, I want to run her again soon and will post up. Me too. Not that I want to make a drop more than 240wtq, but maybe a little extra up top? I still think this turbo is so close to being out of air that it wouldn't help much, but who knows, maybe I'll find out. My 2.5" exhaust is straight back from the downpipe all the way out, no silly double 90 degree bends like factory. but to start, https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456242784
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1310304)
240 torqz at 13 psi on a 1.6 = 80 ft-lbs/atmo/L
I call bullz. Dyno calibration is off.
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310305)
It made the 240 @ 14-15psi and corn timing, still not believable? Serious question
You can only advance spark so much on a tiny turbo that supposedly chokes after 5500rpm |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1310308)
there are a bunch of 2560's, ill dig up some 2554's later if I'm bored
but to start, https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456242784 1/4 trap speed will tell the story |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1310308)
there are a bunch of 2560's, ill dig up some 2554's later if I'm bored
but to start, https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456242784 1/4 trap speed will tell the story You can only advance spark so much on a tiny turbo that supposedly chokes after 5500rpm |
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310300)
BEGi Cast
You'll know then for sure if your turbo is running out of puff :likecat: Here, have a dounut :giggle: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics...-282_b450.jpg? |
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310313)
Oooh I like the pretty blue one. Red... 280+wtq on a stock block?
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Jason should chime in w/ his dyno plot since he ran a 2554 on his 99 iirc
cant find it now, but most 1.8's with 2554 make 200 at or before 3k |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1310316)
Blue one might have been a 2560. The red one I believe was a stock motor. There have been a few people who have ran more then 250ft/lbs on stock motors, I think a lot of it is luck.
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the tuning is not the issue on most of these cars. it's not like we have ringland or weak poston problems. we have rod problems. this is from making too much torque, or cylinder pressure, depending on how you look at it.
the higher up you make your torque and the more mechanical empathy you have the longer it usually lasts. there's a local making 350 on his Miata for a while. stock bp. it was a giant snail that made power/torque in the last 1500rpm of the powerband |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1310321)
the tuning is not the issue on most of these cars. it's not like we have ringland or weak poston problems. we have rod problems. this is from making too much torque, or cylinder pressure, depending on how you look at it.
the higher up you make your torque and the more mechanical empathy you have the longer it usually lasts. there's a local making 350 on his Miata for a while. stock bp. it was a giant snail that made power/torque in the last 1500rpm of the powerband |
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310325)
Which is exactly why I added the boost taper and some extra timing up top, I want to stay at 240wtq, but would love to make more horsepower up top as long as I can stay under that. I'm thinking of swapping to a 60R cold side to help accomplish it.
I'd start with exhaust |
Originally Posted by 1993z32
(Post 1310305)
It made the 240 @ 14-15psi and corn timing, still not believable? Serious question
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