Well I've done some math here (actually google ha!) and figured out mine is at 4 BAR while cruising, that's roughly 58 PSI. It's about the same that the previous engine did when cruising. Only when cold, the values are noticeably higher (slightly above 6 BAR).

There's also something else. I don't have VVT management still, and the engine is pulling quite fine! Is this to be expected, or does it have something to do with the fact that the pressure is high? Just wondering as the VVT runs on oil and may account for some pressure loss at cruising speeds with proper management.

Also another curiosity... Does the VVT stay normally opened (mucho overlap) or normally closed (almost no overlap) when there is no management installed, or if you were to pull the VVT solenoid plug?

The VVT defaults to full retard (low overlap) when there's no power at the solenoid.

Hmm, I see. Thanks!

I replaced the dummy sender with the one off of the 94 (big ugly).

Yeah those numbers are with the sensor off the 1992.
I relocated it as shown in the upper left hand corner here:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uQ...M=w524-h931-no

I just removed the stock one and threaded mine into the VVT pipe. Maybe the height of the sensor relative to the engine plays a role there?

So I suppose I should show my completed setup. Thanks again for the help everyone. Will hopefully be hitting a dyno soon..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1434813913

Very interested to see what numbers you get.

I did not add that plastic "sleeve" around the fuel pipes, now that I think of it. I passed them through under the throttle body, they're rubbing on the manifold there (probably not a good idea).

I also replaced the fuel hoses with brand new 7mm ones.

Should I add some sleeving at least?

Mandatory install shot:

http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6...619_210523.jpg

I just remembered something. I did not install the bracket that holds the intake manifold to the lower part of the block, next to the alternator.

Will it be OK without it?

From what I have read, that could sometimes cause the dreaded throttle body screw to vibrate lose and get sucked through the engine. It is there for a number of reasons, mainly vibration control and support though, which are important. I would bolt it up.

I reused the sleeving that was on the factory lines. I figure it can't hurt, and the line that goes over the intake manifold rubs ever so slightly on the hood so I feel better with it there.

Results are in... and they are good.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-dynoed-85156/

Hey guys! :)

So i'm just at the end of my vvt swap into EUDM 1.6 NA ( 90km ), and i managed to fry the 01 coils, don't really have an idea why...
Now i want to just use the original 1.6 coils..is there any trick on how to connect them, or just leave as it was factory and call it a day?
btw, car has sequential spark from the factory..or so they say :)
More or less everything is wired up as to this thread..
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...r-72134/page1/
exept the coils as i somehow forgot to check the last page, where i should include the x15 connector somehow.xD
Running on MS3 ;)

No NAs or NBs ever had sequential ignition. They're all wasted spark.

Just mounting the coils as they were on the original engine will do. Mind, you'll have to modify the cable boots or the cam cover for them to fit.

Also, did you try to fit the 01+ coils with the ignitor in place? That would cause them to burn :)

Sorry i meant sequential injection, but dont think that would make a difference :)
Great thats what i wanted to hear. What do you mean by modifying? cables fit with no problem!?
Nope, i deleted the ignitor and ran new wires to the coils, but forgot to wire them to the condenser at the back of the head.

I did it like this...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439975107

but sould do it like this i guess...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439975107

btw, is the case/metal housing of the 1.6 coil ground for itself, or can it be mouted to non chasies/engine bracket?

:)

I did not wire mine to the condenser behind the engine. Actually I got rid of it and they worked pretty fine. What dwell time were you running on them?

Also, the case is grounded, only the VVT coils have their own ground IIRC.

Interesting, i tought that was the problem..
Cant tell..i fry them before even logging into tunerstudio ;)

Did you try to load new firmware into the ECU without disconnecting them first?

Nope nothing, i just connected everything, including the battery, give the contact and there was that big cloud of smoke coming from the coils ;)

Does your MS have ignitors in it? If so do not attempt to connect the 1.6 ignitor!!!

Is there any way to check/test my MS3 to see if it has them?

Open the case, you'll either find two BIP373 inside (for the wasted spark outputs) or not. If you have them do not use this ECU in a miata, you have to modify it.

i'll check that, but since it was made for a miata i dont think it has them ..

So i managed to fix everything, it was the inverted spark setting in MS3. :)
Now i have rather strange problem, i get the spark when i turn the key, but no spark when i try to start it, also MS3 is sating that there is "no rpm sync". Any ideas on what could it be? :)

Kristjan, start your own thread for the issues with your specific car. This thread is for general questions about the swap, not specific issues with specific cars :)

I apologise, starting my own :)

Doing a swap this weekend, and I need a little help... what is sensor A? Knock sensor?

B looks like oil pressure? At least it looks similar to something on my NA8 motor.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1440900025

A is the knock sensor and B is an oil presure switch, it is only on and off type switch.

sweet- thanks! :likecat:

it's going into a 97, so I only had an on/off oil pressure switch anyways.

94-97 FPR, 99 Fuel Rail, and VVT
 

This is my first reply so bare with me...


My goal is 01 VVT motor swap + EUDM square top manifold + mazdaspeed 6-speed tranny into 95 NA. (Also 94 torsen lsd diff, but am on the fence about the gear ratio)


This was written at the beginning of the thread and I have been trying to prove it right.


"Fuel system:
Use a 1999-2000 fuel rail and a 1990-1993 fuel pressure regulator. No other combination of OEM parts will work. The 90-93 fuel rails are too short, the 94-97 rails have incorrect mounting tabs, and the 01-05 rail places the fuel pressure regulator in a spot which interferes with the cylinder head. The 94-97 FPR places the pressure reference in a spot which interferes with the cylinder head and the 99-05 regulators do not have a return line."


Is this only true when retaining the VTCS manifold? I will be using a 99 fuel rail and EUDM square top, and was told from an outside source the 94 FPR should work, so I gave it a try...


Attachment 149173

Attachment 149174


It looks like the clearance won't be an issue.. Is there something I am missing or will I have issues with clearance later in the process? The only thing I can think of is I used the 01 injector harness for a fitment test. Am I going to use the 95 injector harness and is this going to cause a clearance issue??


Thanks! :rofl:

'99 EUDM fuel rail should be regulated. Mine was! In that case you won't be needing the FPR ;)

Just bend the return pipe a little, in order to clear the engine head.

The vaccum reference port fouls the intake manifold. I guess you could run without the reference port hooked up, though. If you want vacuum reference, you need the 90-93 USDM regulator or the 99-00 EUDM/JDM return regulator.

I made a 97 FPR work by bending stuff... Clearance is tight, but it can work. I have 2001 motor, Squaretop, 99 fuel rail and 97 FPR in a 97 chassis.

My car is running/driving nicely. Pretty happy with how easy this was for my first motor swap.


Just FYI for those swapping NB2 motors into NA's:
I did ZERO wiring to put this motor in the car... Made some ghetto mounts for my coilpacks, trimmed the plug wires and am running the old style CAS for now. I'm not running VVT until I get motivated to spend money on VVT tuner thing and do some wiring. I made a plug on a lathe at work to cap the new cam-sensor hole for the temporary.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442240355

You need to do some wiring if you have an NA6, at least to extend the CAS wires to the new position. Otherwise it's pretty much as you say!

If you don't mind can you clarify what "stuff" you had to bend? Thanks!

Thank you for the reply. Can you give me a little more detail on how the vacuum reference port fouls the intake manifold? I will be swapping all of the coolant sensors/oil pressure sender and injector harness shortly. I am sure I will come across the challenges on the way but it helps to get some type of understanding before hand. if critical I have no problems looking for a 90-93 FPR.

Uh.. not really? :) The reference port basically touches the intake manifold, and you can't slip a vacuum line onto it without badly kinking that line. If you need more detail, you'll probably have to assemble it yourself and see what I mean - I'm not sure how to describe it any better than "it doesn't fit, you can't do it" :party:

e: Post 86 in this thread discusses this topic as well.

entry/exit to fuel rail, nipples on fpr, grind IM, etc.

Just put it together and (gently) bend stuff to fit. It will make sense when you have it all in front of you.

I have a questions about coolant hoses and which coolant necks to use.

So I did this swap in 2012 and she was running until the oil drain loosened and trashed the engine. Well 3 years later I am getting her going again. Hard lesson learned about tightening down drain plug.

So anyway my question is
I initial used the 1.6 front coolant/thermostat neck and the 1.6 driverside front coolant neck.


My 1.6 had an old Begi partial reroute that brought the heater core output back to the radiator hose that connects betweeen the thermostat housing and the radiator. So I don't need the heater core return line included in the 01-05 drivers side coolant neck.

But the 1.6 drivers side coolant neck requires a tight squeeze on the radiator hose coming from the bottom of the rad. Could I use the 01-05 driverside coolant neck and block the heater core return. Or should I just keep it the way I did it the first time with 1.6 front coolant necks.

Also any reason to keep 01-05 neck on thermostat neck? the 1.6 one clears my BOV better.

What about the rear neck 01-05 or 1.6 neck?

I used everything off the VVT on mine... There are ports in the engine, so just removed whatever is fitted there (one sensor and one bung) and fitted those from the original engine. Left the rest unmodded.

If you still feel like replacing those parts, it should make no difference.

Also I was wondering and maybe it would help other too if it's here.

What firmware/software changes are required in the ECU when you change from the CAS and stock earlier coil/igniter to the VVT Coils with built in igniter?

"all of the other changes necessary will happen in the firmware/software of your ECU. "

I'm still using CAS on mine, so no changes there. the CAS is either optical or hall. The optical simulates a hall signal anyway.

As for the VVT COPs, they do have an ignitor built into them. You have to bypass the ignitor ALWAYS, as stated in the first post of this thread. All you have to do afterwards is set the dwell time, as the 1.6 at least uses a 5ms dwell. mine are currently running happily at 4ms dwell time.

By losing the ignitor which generates RPM signal to the gauge cluster, you will lose the rev meter as well. You can modify the MS (if it doesn't already have it) to output the tacho output in the wire that goes to the ignitor, and loop that one too (as per the initial post). But not all MS will support that out-of-the-box.

To keep 01-05 driversside coolant neck do you just change to a 01-05 lower radiator hose? Will it interfere with the turbo and pipings?
A pic of it installed please.

Didn't change a thing. The original hose just fits normally on the waterpump neck.

Be sure to clean the surface very well as I had to disassemble it 4 times as it was leaking due to rough surface.

With my early Begi garret turbo system the 1.6 hose comes out the front of the engine between the ac pulley and pw steering pulley. Which neck did turbo guys use? Any pics?

Dumb question.

The guide says to use an NB throttle cable. I'm swapping in a 2003 (NB) motor, with a 99 (NB) manifold, but retaining my 94 (NA) throttle body (94 chassis).

While my gut tells me the NA cable that matches my throttle body is the one to use, Sav is obviously much more knowledgeable than my gut.



I ASSume the recommendation for an NB throttle cable only applies if one is using an NB throttle body?

It's for all cases I think. The issue with the throttle cable is that it's longer in the NA than in the NB, from the sleeve end to the TB spindle. And this is affected by the bracket that is mounted on the manifold.

To be fair, I just fabbed a new bracket and was done with it. Couldn't be arsed swapping the throttle cable. If and when it goes, I'll swap it.

Ghetto temporary bracket can be fabbed. Thanks.

Ghetto temporary bracket that breaks < OEM throttle cable installed and used as designed

Maybe I mentioned it wrong, but I don't expect the bracket to go. I was saying, when the cable goes, I'll replace it. Pretty sure the bracket I made is more resistant than the OEM one, as I merely extended the NA OEM bracket to fit the NB manifold position.

In my 90 with vvt I used a bracket from flying miata and the na cable. Seems to work fine I guess the cable is a little long but theirs plenty of room for the bigger cable it doesn't bend sharply at all. Looks stock.
Thou the bracket is unpainted but the welds are kind of pretty.

Does the NB2 header fit into a NA chassis fine? I will be building a 2.5" for the rest of the exhaust so I am not worried about the flange being off. Long term I am planning on switching to a RB header. Any difference in power between the NA and NB ones?

I've never tried, but I would imagine it fits just fine. The NB2 header is substantially better than the NB1/NA8 headers.

So good that you can basically fund an RB header by selling it on eBay (seriously, $275-300+ all day).

The spare VVT motor I am picking up comes with the NB2 header. It is a large reason I am buying the motor. Don't have a car for the motor, but having spares sitting around can't be bad.

It is silly how much the NB2 headers go for. I am also surprised by how well used RB headers hold their value.

Wtf? I could barely sell mine at 125.

I have an NB2 header gathering dust at home. Couldn't be arsed adapting it with the rest of the swap when the car is eventually going to get a new one.

I have both, lolwut?

The big market for the NB2 header is CA guys who are stuck with the cast iron BP4W manifolds, but they need to be complete with heatshields and EGR tube. For obvious reasons.

As for the NB RB in a NA chassis, didn't Hustler do this when he went back to N/A on the Green Glory Hole? I feel like he had to dent one of the primaries to get it to not whack the steering shaft, but I may be getting that cornfused with someone/something else.