ah ok, that's what I sorta figured, the banjo threads into the bspt threads reasonably?

Yeah, I didn't even notice there was a discrepancy in the threading. I also just got the big kit of copper washers from HF for $5. It's got a size that works for both upper and lower banjo bolts. 2x washers for both bolts & you should be GTG.

The block is tapped BSPP, not BSPT.

reference this post: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...6/#post1379147

Just double-checking... I also was unable to salvage the cam and crank angle plugs from my donor VVT engine and am wiring new plugs from scratch, and want to verify the pin order for both. The above post indicates the order (facing the sensor receptacle) from left to right is GRND / SIG / +12V. The 2005 wiring diagram (snippet below) show that the pin order is the same for both cam and crank sensors but the GRND and +12V pins seem to be reversed vs. the post above. Or perhaps I'm reading the diagram backwards. Can someone verify?

crap, my attachments didn't work as expected above. Below is the snippet from the 2005 wiring diagram. If I'm reading it correctly the GRND is on the left side in the diagram, but it would be on the right if facing the sensor. Post 402 shows a picture of the CAM sensor with GRND labeled on the left side. Is post 402 correct and I'm reading the diagram wrong?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...814b7caba4.jpg

Crank
Attachment 235544

Cam
Attachment 235545

Perfect! Thanks again for all the info on this thread!

Are these the pigtails Trackspeed sells? There aren't any photos on the page, just curious if this is what it looks like

Yes

Hi guys!
I just finished my swap today, and wired everything together. I have an EUDM 96 so its a 1.6 so the wiring was a bit different and the car wont start. Its cranking, the oil perssure is up, the o2 sensor is calibrated and the MS3X can see it, also I have coolant temp so some things work, but the car won't start. I also don't have TPS, when I turn the ignition on it starts at 24% and slowly creeps to 34% and just stops there (I tried calibrating but it reads the same). So I started sniffing around the engine bay to look for clues and I noticed that the 01 coils were getting really hot, so I turned the ignition off and unplugged the battery.
I started measuring things and the really weird thing is that the coils power (Black/White) and the ground (Black) are CONNECTED somehow. And I couldn't figure out where. Also on the ignitor side I connected it as per the OP instructions I crimped together 1 and 2, 8 and 7 and left the rest, oddly I don't have wire number 5 the Black/White wire on the ignitor. I used the coil connector to hook it up to the Coils. So I started disconnecting things and the 12 V BLUE (number 3) connector on the ignitor is still connected to the black(number 6) ground wire.
I don't really know what could be up, tomorrow I will start pulling all the things I made, connector wise and keep measuring connection between the BLUE and BLACK wire on the ignitor to see if any of the connections are wrong.
Btw I have a MS3 with the X extension and it has a DIY 97 1.8 wiring harness.
If any of you have any clue as what could this possibly be or any tips or leads I can start on, it would be greatly appriciated as this whole thing let me down a bunch.
Thank you!!!

Swap from Chile
 

HI!, I would like to ask for your help with my swap, I have a miata 97 and I bought an NB2 engine, I followed this post: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...t-swap-into-90 -97-chassis-megathread-80469 / I have Megasquirt 2 MSPNP2 V1.3a the other code that I have on the board is MSPNP2-MM9697 V1.1 (c) 2013 DIYAUTOTUNE.COM The problem is that the megasquirt does not read the signal from the cam sensor, the trigger blinks that recognizes the crankshaft when the engine turns and only the cam signal is missing. Please your help is the only thing left to get back on track. Thank you!

Good afternoon, I would like to ask for your help with my swap, I have a miata 97 and I bought an NB2 engine, I followed this post: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...t-swap-into-90 -97-chassis-megathread-80469 / I have Megasquirt 2 MSPNP2 V1.3a the other code that I have on the board is MSPNP2-MM9697 V1.1 (c) 2013 DIYAUTOTUNE.COM The problem is that the megasquirt does not read the signal from the cam sensor, the trigger blinks that recognizes the crankshaft when the engine turns and only the cam signal is missing. Please your help is the only thing left to get back on track. Thank you!

Hey guys, I just wanted to add that I am in the parts gathering phase for vvt swapping my 1.6 miata. In doing some research and finding some pictures online I found this connector. I bought it on a whim and sure enough it fits the cas connector where the cas would connect. So without splicing anything or cutting off my stock cas connector I am able to have the 4 wires from the cas to connect to the cam and crank sensors. I've been trying to make everything as plug and play as possible with as little cutting of the chassis harness as possible.

Here is the link.
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/4161



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df1e433c46.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eb16d75810.jpg

Heck yeah, great find!!! I (and quite a few others I'm sure) have been looking for this! Pos-cat for you!

There's a Miata specific page for all sorts of pigtails on that site. I use it all the time.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/static.php/post/miata

I use that link too, but thanks for the heads up.

What I am looking for now is a connector that would plug in in place of the 1.6 igniter to run the vvt ignition coils. I am not that thrilled about de-pinning my stock connector to put on a nb style one.

Also, I could not find it on bmotorsports but for people looking for the connector for the air intake temp sensor that would connect on the stock 1.6 afm wiring, I found on speedyefi that they had that connector. I have been unable to find that connector anywhere else so I have no idea how they sourced it.It lets me run my ait without having to have it electrical taped into the connectors on my AFM harness.
https://speedyefi.com/product/90-93-...f-delete-plug/




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...75a33e7402.jpg




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0a82516f81.jpg

I am sure that a larger manufacturer makes that plug since jackson racing used to make an extension harness with that connector once upon a time but their extension harness was around $90 last time I checked if it was even able to be had anymore.

Also, I bought this and it fit great for the 1.6 chassis tps connector. This connector coupled with a stock 1.8 tps connector will let me make a tps sensor pigtail to go from 1.6 to 1.8 without having to actually cut any chassis wires. Thought it might be helpful to you guys in the future who don't want to cut any chassis wires.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Female-...item3d3695fd2a

They don't list the male version of the CAS connector, this is the first I've seen it

Any suggestions for other connectors to purchase to make the least number of alterations to the stock wiring harness as possible?

you will need a connector for the crank sensor and another connector for the cam sensor.

If you are using the vvt coils you will need a connector on the chassis side and on the coil side.

MS3 PNP and NB swap CKP/CMP
 

I have a 97 NA chassis with the NB motor. I followed this thread for conversion of the CAS to separate NB Crank and CAM sensors.

Since I will be using a MS3Pro PnP for 96-97 model, the manual shows the jumpers for J3/J4 as determining the proper setting for the CAS/Crank VR Select. I am confused whether I need to change the default for the fact that the car is running separate CKP and CMP sensors now. Please help, new to MS. Thanks.

Guys,
I am in a middle of engine wiring into early NA8 chassis.
the thing is that car have 4 wire coils connectors....If I follow this:
1994-1997 coils:
+12v:
94-97: Blue OK
99-05: Black/White OK

trigger cyl 1/4:
94-00: brown/yellow OK
01-05: brown/white OK

trigger cyl 2/3:
94-00: brown OK
01-05: black/yellow OK

ground:
94-05: black OK

I am now left with Black/White cable from both coils on NA8 harness but there is no wire left to connect it on VVt loom. I guess 4th wire is for tach signal, but do I really need it or it is controlled somehow by FM221 ?

Also I found strange that Black GND wires on VVT loom is thickier than 12V wires. Is it possible that EU harness got different color coded wires ? 12V wire on NA8 loom is thickier than grond wire.

See attached picture for refference. Any help much aprreciated
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c270093172.png

That "extra" wire is tach signal, my 95 doesn't currently have a functional tach but I've got a Racepak so it hasn't bothered me yet...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...054ec2689.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ce908fb1.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5c3fc095e.jpeg

To add to this, because I didn't see it elsewhere in the thread. the NA8 valve fits on a EUDM "Square-top" manifold without modification.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73b0ddfc47.png

Every time you quote a picture, or quote the entire original post (fucking seriously?), a kitten dies. Stop doing it.

Question about 12v power. Would it be possible to tap into the extra 12v power at the modified ignitor to power the VVT solenoid? Since the power source of the ignitor is no longer being used, I figured this would be more reasonable than taping into the injector power harness unless there's something with the ignitor power source that makes it undesirable to use for this application.

Igniter power source is shared with the coils, so it's definitely still used. You could share it with the VVT solenoid if you wanted to, though.

Loom swap
 

Hi is it possible to plug the complete engine loom off a 1.8 vvt engine into the blue multiplug under the dash on a non vvt car
i have a mk2 1.8 on a 1998 that i want to install a 2001 1.8vvt into i have
the complete engine/box and wiring loom from the 1.8 vvt ready to go in, i just need to know if it will work
any help would be welcome
cheers
mat

Read the thread, that's covered and it's stupid.

hi all

I have completed the VVT swap in to my 93 MK1 all went well apart from I have no rev counter, Im using the motorsport electronics ME 221 ECU, their guide to the rev counter issue which is caused by cutting out the ignitor and wiring up coil packs
there is a solder bridge in the ECU that needs linked which I have done, then a link wire from pin 2i on the ecu (Blk/wht) wire to the blk/wht wire on the rear of the cluster which I tried but still unable to get the rev counter to work

anyone got any ideas or a work around ? or will I have to install aftermarket rev counter ?

ive been thru the entire thread and tried all that's been suggested earlier and still no luck with this Tach, can any one shed any light or other ideas how to get this working ?

I have two sets of motor mount brackets for my swap. On the left is the VVT (NB2) brackets which attach to the oil pan on the lower side and on the right is the NB1. Are the VVT much better or preferred?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e38bd1c7ae.jpg

Unfortunately you are using an ECU that has literally no trust.
Some people have done this a few times though so they may be well enough versed to help but it is whether those particular people see this.

Hey folks. Still early into my 93 VVT swap project but, have a couple of questions that I can't seem to find the answers to with google. When it comes to fueling can I opt to use an aftermarket fuel rail like the Radium unit paired with a 1.6 fpr or would that still cause interference issues and I'm stuck going with an aftermarket fpr? At the moment I can't find a 99-00 fuel rail to save my life.

Also, my VVT motor didn't come with anything alternator related. Bracket, bolts, etc. I know the bracket between the 1.6 and 1.8 are different but, can I reuse all the mounting bolts from the 1.6 onto the 1.8?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks to the info in this thread, my son & I swapped a 2001 motor into a 1990. And it runs...! :)

But....the upper radiator hose is in the way of the intake (stock 90 brass end-tank radiator). Is this normal?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28ef031161.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ecc34e9c84.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3178ce2246.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17f0657ea5.jpg

Sorry for the newb question, but i have an early NA8 with a 2 plug speeduino ECU. i note that NBs have a 3 plug ECU. would i have to change the plugs at the ECU end or get a new ECU or are all the changes done at the engine end to get everything to work?

This thread has been very helpful. I'm almost done with my swap into my 1990 and am having an issue that I hope I can get some help with.

I have everything wired as described in the first post and am using a PNP Megasquirt from DIYAutotune. I am not getting any spark. I'm reading the below diagram for the '01-05 coil plug as trigger on top, ground, 12V.

Using the test outputs in MS I see 12V across the power wire and a 5V pulse on the trigger. However, I cannot hear the coils cycle when testing and a connecting timing light will not pulse when attempting cranking. I've purchased a new set of NGK coils that are acting the same.

What am I missing here? Is there some sort of setting I need to use in MS that I am not?

EDIT: I do have RPM synch.

Thanks

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c1c4ced09a.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd1658d6ec.jpg

OK, stupid issue, fixed it myself.

Decided to test one of the old coils on the bench and it worked fine. Tested one on the car providing external power, worked. Pulled the ground pin out of the tester and gave a lead to a known good ground, worked....

That means I did something wrong in the wiring... I had the VVT engine factory injector harness but not the coil harness. The harness I made to connect to the car I made the same style as the factory, splitting the engine and car halves.

Pulled the top half of the intake to get to the harness...... and see the ground that I made EXPECIALLY for the coils, so that they would have an independent ground strap to a transmission bolt, dangling on the back of the engine. Just contact was giving it a good enough ground that when I tested 'no load' everything worked, but putting the coil load made the ground fail. Hooked the ground up and coils pasted testing.

I searched and didn't see this mentioned anywhere so I figured it might be helpful for someone in the future. I haven't started the car yet, but I verified pinouts with Sav's post (#607) based on pin position. Car starts and runs with this wiring.

Engine to Transmission Plate
 

I'm swapping a 01 VVT engine into my 96 Miata that has a 6 speed trans the previous owner installed. Will the engine to transmission plate that came on my stock 96 1.8 motor work with the 01 VVT engine? I did not receive the engine to transmission plate with my built 01 VVT engine.

Thx in advance,
John

John, yes.

So because there are 33 pages and I will probably find my answer right after asking I will ask for the sake of sanity. I just installed my 99-00 rail with my upside down 90-93 regulator. I have an issue where the 90 chassis didn't use disconnects on the fuel hoses. Does anyone have reccomendations on how to cleanly or easily make that swap? Did you just put new hoses over the weird lock fitting from the fuel rail?

Thanks!

Just like that I found my answer! :loser:

The OE plastic NB fuel line fittings that press into the plastic (nylon?) stock fuel lines do not have the correct style barb for generic rubber fuel hose. Depending on the type of hose you use and how much you clamp it down, they may cut through the inner wall of the hose. I believe @codrus had to deal this back when he was defuckulating the fuel system that had been installed by the PO of his Lowcost. I'd imagine he can weigh in on that one.

I realized that when I started messing around with it. I tried shoving the hose over the barb but there is no way I could non-destructively get it back off. I am not sure I want to risk running a strong clamp on it since the pressure inside the system is so high. Is there a cheapo way to flair the rail fitting?

Your choice are, in roughly decreasing order of sketchiness:

1) Push the hose on the end of the metal line with no barb, put a worm gear clamp on loosely, and embrace flaming death.

2) get a stock fuel line and very very carefully slice the nylon line off the quick-disconnect-to-hose-barb without damaging the plastic barb part. Push a rubber 65-psi-rated fuel injection hose over the barb and put a proper fuel injector hose clamp on it. This is what FM's instructions for the original 99 FM2 kit said to do (the one with the Link piggyback computer and 4 extra injectors).

3) fuck that and buy a Dorman nylon line repair part ($12 for a pack of 2) instead of trying to salvage an OEM one. Do the same thing with the proper hose and clamp.
4) Get an all-metal quick-disconnect-to-AN fitting and put a bunch of other fancy AN fuel parts in your car. Like this: (note that there are fittings like this that use plastic locking inserts that are somewhat notorious for failing. get the all-metal one).

Somewhere in the middle is flaring the OEM line for an AN fitting. It's not really the right diameter (metric instead of SAE) and the steel is pretty hard. I'm not really a fan of it.

I have done 2, 3, and 4 in the past. Right now my car has #3 on it.

--Ian

This is what I think I will do! Thanks for the links, they are highly appreciated! Long term plans will be AN for everything but that's more money than I want to spend at the moment.

I flared mine, it was fine. What is not fine is the close to the right size compression to AN fittings they sell for fuel lines on summit. The compression fitting and the coating on the factory fuel line dont agree with each other.

I'm hoping someone can help with a sanity check since I couldn't find any ITB info in the thread.
I've got a '96 motor with Jenvey ITBs on it and Jenvey sells the NB manifold separately. So I should be able to swap the whole setup over. If I do that, I don't need to mess with the throttle body, throttle cable, TPS, or anything from the fuel system. The only things that need changing are the alternator, coils, CAS, and VVT control or am I missing something?

You'll keep your '96 alternator, wire the VVT coils, split your CAS wiring to the CMP and CKP, and add the VVT system, yes.

Typically there is interference issues fitting an NA TPS on an NB head, but that's because of the intake manifold design. It should fit the head just fine, same with throttle cable.

Awesome, thanks. Fortunately it's in a kit car and running ITBs. So it's already got a custom throttle cable and the TPS is on the ITBs already.
This is the one time the ITBs seem to be saving me work instead of being a PITA.

Thanks to all for the contributions to this thread, and for Rev answering some emails about my MS3 Basic.. Have a VVT motor dropped in the car and I think I have the wiring done. I'm trying to figure out how to route the fuel lines from the fuel rail and FPR to the hard lines. Flat top manifold. Anyone have a picture or sketch of how they routed the lines?

I currently have the line from the FPR running under the plenum and down through a gap in the manifold but the line to the rail that connects to the FPR sticking straight up is stumping me.

Let me know if this isn't what you're looking for I probably have many more images or can build a folder you can have access to view of the entire build in photos.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae2dca4a89.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef90cd644f.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b05133852c.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b8a621b1d.png
I routed the return under the chargpipe and throttlebody.

Thanks, any issues with the fuel hose rubbing the hood in that config?

I have mine setup in a similar fashion, but ran the fuel line tighter to the manifold, and down behind the throttle linkage. Not sure if that would work on a stock TB. I added an extra layer of hose for protection, but haven't noticed any evidence that the hood rubs on it. 5 years on the track with this setup and no issues. Ignore the arrows in the 2nd pic... was pointing out vac lines to someone in another thread.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4488e20e_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9db8d47e_c.jpg

Awesome. Thanks to both of you.

Does it matter if you use the 99-00 1.6 or 1.8 fuel rail? Or are they both the same?

1.6 and 1.8 have different spacing between ports and na8 versus NB will be different as well

Allright so you need the 1.8 99-00 fuel rail.
​​Thanks!

Would a radium fuel rail & 90-93 FPR run into the same clearance issues? Just asking before I pull the trigger on a 99/00 fuel rail.
edit: haven't seen anyone do this, just gonna get the 99/00.