I just need some free labor and free donor parts and free machine work.

 

+1

 

Good ******* lord and I thought I had problems before. I feel better about myself. Thank you.


Why not whip out the multimeter and check absolutely everything in the car? Shouldn't take too long

 

well lets say something is dumping 2-3-4-5v to ground somewhere. how do i find it?

 

Have you checked the wires going to your alt for nicked insulation? I have seen similar symptoms caused by this.

 

I need to. i tired following it back to the firewall and it's a rat's rest in that area, I'm going to pull the injector hanress out and see if i can trace it back further.

 

Uhh... an ammeter

 

Methodically probe around the body while grounding on the other side of the car or to electrical ground somewhere?

Maybe you could test voltage in the fusebox?

 

wiper motor can run without the wiper fuse. That tells me something.

 

Awwww shiiittt!!!!!

 

honestly though, tell me how the wipers could operate without the fuse...






WAHGESAKGDJfdsafd;lsa,f;s/afafsafffffffff weak.

 

Because race car?

 

hahaha. oh god.


i forgot my DMM this morning i wanted to poke around. So I was testing by pulling things then listening for alternator whine in my speakers when i hit the a/c switch button. I unplugged the a/c relay, blower motor, and wiper fuse and when I hit the a/c button I hear a distinct increase in whine. I assume it's gotta be something in the HVAC controls themselves?

Anyone know what the wire on 1S does?

 

Hitting ac button causes more electrical load so alternator output increases. This increases electrical noise.

 

yeah but this is without the a/c relay, wiper fuse, or blower fan connected.

No load was being added; pushing it was only allowing the ground from the evap. thermoswitch to pass into my MS to tell it to send a ground out to the a/c relay, which wasn't plugged in.

the alt. whine I'm hearing with a/c is very loud and started around the same time I was having my idle issue. It's just gotten progressively worse.

 

ECU pin 1S (circle marker 23) connects to the ECU presumably to tell it you're using "high blower speed".... maybe for idle-up?

FWIW ECU pinout says "below 2.5V" at your "from MS" marker 22/ac relay for a/c on.

same for your TO MS marker 24.

 

I am going to preface this by saying that, as far as electricity and electrical systems go, I am content to consider it witchcraft.

From my DSM days, it was not uncommon for "new" reman or refurb alternators from Autozone and/or Advanced to have short and random lifespans. Many people decided the lifetime warranty was not as valuable a selling point if you had to actually utilize it twice a year.

 

i hate black voodoo magic.

there was 12v on either side of the wiper fuse. when i pulled the air bag fuse, that removed it...

when i removed the engine fuse, with the wiper fuse still unconnected, the a/c compressor and fan activated...looks like the engine fuse powers the cooling fan relay which goes back to pin 27 on the above diagram...

 

I'm totally shooting in the dark here.

Have you checked all of the wires below/around your coolant pipe? If it bridged the alternator, it seems like it could also mess with the starter motor.

As for your air bag fuse.... perhaps scrutinize your airbag sensors? Maybe a lot of voltage running across them suddenly was bad?

 

yeah like i said losts of wires around coolant pipe, going to disassemble it all and see