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Old 04-28-2009, 05:57 AM   #101
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I can never bring myself to pay the $70/liter price tag on SRF. I'll continue paying $13/liter for ATE until I boil it regularly, then cry myself to sleep at night.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:11 AM   #102
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@Savington: me neither, so I only pay EUR 45 per liter. Which is $ 59 with your Bush-heritage exchange rate. The other good brands (ATE etc.) are hard to get by here, so that counts too.
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:46 AM   #103
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Went to:


Best lap:

Due to the sound limits, I had to short shift and lift off at three points (yeah the straights) so I could've done better. I still made too much noise (95.6 and 95.8dB where 95 is allowed).

Then this:


No damager, just alot of dirt everywhere. The tires started to smear about a lap before that and I just lost the car.

So the issues that I want to fix:
  1. Still overheats, options
    • 1. block off front outlet and only keep rear.
      Some coolant may go straight back in?
      or there is too much flow because I run two stats? 2 > 1 ?
      (Remember, I run it like this now: Pic1 Pic2
    • 2. mount the under tray I got from BEGI, but my gravel tour makes me think twice. I would rip the entire engine out of that scoop got caught somewhere.
    • 3. cut a hole in the hood. I will probably do this. Cut a slot right behind the radiator before the cam cover and put a mesh in there.
  2. Exhaust too loud and hits subframe. I need more exhaust hangers and tighten them. Also I need to loose 2dB. Where do I find them? I run the Enthuza 3" system with 3" cat.
  3. Brakes need bleeding. I have no fade but pedal travel/effort seems to vary. Just needs more bleeding. Can I do this myself on my ABS car? I run Castrol SRF now.
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:50 PM   #104
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Question Ducts

So, I went to the local car parts store and walked past the ricer alley and picked these up. They were cheap, like EUR 20 each.

Together with the BEGI scoop, that should solve my high coolant temps and lower IATs as well.

They come with 3M tape, but I think it would need a little more than that. Can these be molded in? I don't care too much for looks...

Opinions?
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:57 PM   #105
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It's worth it. We ran it in our evo and Z06 and it just doesnt boil. We just changed fluid each season for 3 seasons. You dont even have to think about bleeding the brakes at the track unless you have some other brake issue. Running PFC-01, Hawk HT-10 and HT-14 pads on hoosier R6's or Yok slicks and we never had an issue with fluid using SRF.

jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I can never bring myself to pay the $70/liter price tag on SRF. I'll continue paying $13/liter for ATE until I boil it regularly, then cry myself to sleep at night.
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:04 PM   #106
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i have so much respect for ppl who can tear there whole motor apart and get it back together.
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:45 AM   #107
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:18 AM   #108
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Thumbs up

Had some basic maintainance done at a local Mazda specialist (not a dealer). The speedo is finally working again - cable replaced and cause found - now routed differently.

I also had the rear defroster fixed - a relay that got loose again and again and is now taped in for life.

And the brakes were bled so another 0.5l of Castrol SRF down the drain. They are now rock solid and will stay that way thanks to Castrol SRF and my Carbing brace with MBC mount.

Oh and the airbag module has been disconnected so no more blinking warning light, wheee how gay.

Going to mount my BEGI turbo inlet heat shield (that mounts to the exhaust mani) and then go for a drive.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:29 AM   #109
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LOL nice C-500. i bought one for the same reason too, but ended up not using it.

maybe i missed it, but hows your oil temps? that's a pretty big cooler. I ran something similar in size and was getting way under temp. i install thermostat too and even at like 25% open it was overcooling too.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:33 AM   #110
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@Hi: oil temps are pretty much unknown actually as the temp sensor is AT the oil filter sandwich and doesnt see internal engine oil temps. It never shows about 50C but I can see from my (real) oil pressure gauge when the car has reached operational temperature and over that when I drive it hard on the track (under 30psi @ idle is when the car is hot, [email protected] is warm, above [email protected] is warming up/cold).

It will be moved to the pan or some other genius location soon.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:41 AM   #111
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yeah mines was mounted at the pan. For my oil cooler setup with oil thermostat, the oil temps for track were perfect. Although when i was driving the car to the track, my temps were reading under 50C. Wondering if you were having the same issue. I'm going to change to a smaller oil cooler.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:49 AM   #112
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BTW completely off topic, but for your C-500. Have you ever tried installing XP on it?
I installed XP on it, but cant find the touch drivers anywhere. Latest the manufacture shows supporting the touch driver is windows 2000. Bleh might have to revert back to 2000.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:49 AM   #113
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Quote:
...change to a smaller cooler
And then overheat at the track?!
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:51 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi Im Simon View Post
BTW completely off topic, but for your C-500. Have you ever tried installing XP on it?
I installed XP on it, but cant find the touch drivers anywhere. Latest the manufacture shows supporting the touch driver is windows 2000. Bleh might have to revert back to 2000.
I tried installing XP but failed several attempts. This is after I learned that I should not even try running XPsp3 on it. But sp1 wouldnt install and BSOD during boot. Then the drive died - could be related to XP failing and I installed Win98SE. There are drivers for Win98SE and oldbootdisks.com is your friend here Win98SE is also lightning fast and boots just as fast as my latest Acer Aspire One boots XP.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:55 AM   #115
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acutally i was running XP SP2 Pro with bare minimum everything like most services turned off and no problem. I was using a SSD/Compact Flash Card as hard drive. BTW i think it says max memory is like 128 or something, i stuck in a 256 pc100 in it and it recognizes it. It boots really fast too, only issue is that I dont have the touch drivers. [email protected]!%[email protected]%@!%[email protected]%
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:31 AM   #116
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before you start cutting the hood, what kind of radiator ducting do you have?
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:41 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
before you start cutting the hood, what kind of radiator ducting do you have?
None actually. I am going to mount the BEGI scooper and seal it at the same time. I will still need a vent somewhere though, I am sure.
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:24 PM   #118
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Into the sun 120-210 km/h (75-130mph):

Unrestricted and empty German autobahn, so no flames please.
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:43 PM   #119
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And the MLV that comes with it:

Note the MAT increase: from 22C (72F) to 33C (91F) in 13secs. How does that compare to anything?
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:15 PM   #120
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A fan shroud would increase the cooling capacity a bit. This forces all the air to come through the radiator, not just where the fans sit. As far as the noise issue. we have installed a few V-band exhaust tips on FD race cars. This way u can put a 90 degree turn down (might have to go left or right) depending on where they set up the meters on your track. This way you can point the exhaust away from the meters. dropped 7 db. (We all know how loud turbo rotarys are) with no performance loss.
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