Spookyfish rebuilding daily/track car
09-27-2008, 03:02 AM
#63
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Car is driving fine now. The oil cooler has been removed awaiting correct GOODRIDGE 1136 couplers. Car get up to temperature quickly (normal), heater works, CLT is around 90C, oil up to 100C (212F) during high way driving.
The ACT HD clutch is very easy to get used to combined with the shaved OEM flywheel. You can really feel the power this car wants to make, but I am still breaking the engine in and the base map I am running is pig rich and very conservative on timing.
The Mazda Motorsport motor mounts do make you feel and hear more engine noise and vibrations, but it feels tight.
I just installed my new L-TEC deep dish steering wheel. Overall (w/90mm deep dish and hub) the wheel is only 1" closed, maybe less. Perfect, and you can still control the turn signal and wiper stalks.
I did mess up the horn and airbag connectors on the clock spring, so I have no horn and an airbag warning light. I will figure something out to keep the car road legal: I need a horn and a washing bottle as mine was deleted during the intercooler install.
Thursday we are going to dyno tune the car!
The ACT HD clutch is very easy to get used to combined with the shaved OEM flywheel. You can really feel the power this car wants to make, but I am still breaking the engine in and the base map I am running is pig rich and very conservative on timing.
The Mazda Motorsport motor mounts do make you feel and hear more engine noise and vibrations, but it feels tight.
I just installed my new L-TEC deep dish steering wheel. Overall (w/90mm deep dish and hub) the wheel is only 1" closed, maybe less. Perfect, and you can still control the turn signal and wiper stalks.
I did mess up the horn and airbag connectors on the clock spring, so I have no horn and an airbag warning light. I will figure something out to keep the car road legal: I need a horn and a washing bottle as mine was deleted during the intercooler install.
Thursday we are going to dyno tune the car!
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10-06-2008, 04:27 PM
#64
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So, going out for a full out dyno session tomorrow. That is on a steady state 4WD SuperFlow dyno. They will tune all rpm and load ranges.
We did a short run last week while it was pig rich (< 10:1 AFR) and basically un-tuned for fuel and spark. Boost control was regulating up to 6psi. We made a misserable 135rwhp and 160flywheel hp. Also, power was degrading after 5500rpm, I don't know boost at that level. I attribute this all to the low boost and poor base map I was running.
We'll see about that tomorrow. I am going to aim for up to 250rwhp at around 14psi. How feasible is this with my 1994 1.8 8.6:1CR and everything?
I will recheck if the wastegate is tight to keep it all shut up to 14psi (I have EBC).
I will put in new fresh plugs (1 step colder, just like now)
I already run Castrol 10W60 synthetic oil
I am planning to have them tune up to 7000rpm and then retart the rev limit to 6800. Depending on where I make peak power.
And tips, hint and other input?
We did a short run last week while it was pig rich (< 10:1 AFR) and basically un-tuned for fuel and spark. Boost control was regulating up to 6psi. We made a misserable 135rwhp and 160flywheel hp. Also, power was degrading after 5500rpm, I don't know boost at that level. I attribute this all to the low boost and poor base map I was running.
We'll see about that tomorrow. I am going to aim for up to 250rwhp at around 14psi. How feasible is this with my 1994 1.8 8.6:1CR and everything?
I will recheck if the wastegate is tight to keep it all shut up to 14psi (I have EBC).
I will put in new fresh plugs (1 step colder, just like now)
I already run Castrol 10W60 synthetic oil
I am planning to have them tune up to 7000rpm and then retart the rev limit to 6800. Depending on where I make peak power.
And tips, hint and other input?
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10-07-2008, 04:11 AM
#66
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Uhm, 190/220hp (wheel/flywheel)
No, 200/233hp
No, 210/244hp
Torque is 235lbft at around 4000rpm but is dropping of. Max power is at around 5000-5500rpm and not increasing after that. It seems like we're loosing boost higher up... maybe the wastegate is ported just a little too well?
No, 200/233hp
No, 210/244hp
Torque is 235lbft at around 4000rpm but is dropping of. Max power is at around 5000-5500rpm and not increasing after that. It seems like we're loosing boost higher up... maybe the wastegate is ported just a little too well?
Last edited by Laur3ns; 10-07-2008 at 05:13 AM.
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10-07-2008, 05:42 AM
#67
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Wastegate is now tighter by two full turns. That is much better... we need to dial down boost control now to stay out of overboost protection (16psi). We were making 260lbft at around 4500rpm which is too much.
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10-07-2008, 10:36 AM
#69
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God that graph is screwy...
SAE = kW * 1.3410
DIN = kW * 1.3596217
so 214.3 DIN = 211HP
200 DIN @ 6500 = 197HP
197HP * 5252 / 6500 = 159 TQ
Nm = lb-ft * 1.355816
263 NM @ 6500 = 194 TQ .... doesn't add up?!
the torque is based off the engine HP.
243 DIN @ 6500 = 240 HP
240HP * 5252 / 6500 = 193 TQ
193 TQ = 261 NM
So, based on all that. I'd say the results were 211rwhp / 212 rwtq. If i did my math right.
if the 250 number was really rwhp and it's just labeled funny, then it would be: 247rwhp / 249 rwtq
SAE = kW * 1.3410
DIN = kW * 1.3596217
so 214.3 DIN = 211HP
200 DIN @ 6500 = 197HP
197HP * 5252 / 6500 = 159 TQ
Nm = lb-ft * 1.355816
263 NM @ 6500 = 194 TQ .... doesn't add up?!
the torque is based off the engine HP.
243 DIN @ 6500 = 240 HP
240HP * 5252 / 6500 = 193 TQ
193 TQ = 261 NM
So, based on all that. I'd say the results were 211rwhp / 212 rwtq. If i did my math right.
if the 250 number was really rwhp and it's just labeled funny, then it would be: 247rwhp / 249 rwtq
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10-07-2008, 11:16 AM
#71
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still.. it's high. green and blue lines go together. the final numbers I go should be correct.
are you not holding boost to redline? regardless of teh numbers you seem to have heavy torque loss after 4500RPM.
are you not holding boost to redline? regardless of teh numbers you seem to have heavy torque loss after 4500RPM.
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10-07-2008, 02:08 PM
#72
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We reach ~ 14psi around 3800rpm and hold it up to 6600rpm at least. This is after we increased the waste gate spring pre-tension. So we're (no longer) losing boost at higher rpm, but torque is dropping of and we have an almost flat hp curve from 5500-6500rpm.
It seems like I'm making more torque than most (250lbft) and less hp... strange.
I am thinking, my compressor inlet is too restrictive (gutted MAF is there for example, BEGI air filter too small?) or my exhaust system is holding things down, or something else is wrong/different. AFR is 11.x-ish at those levels. Timing is 16-18.
What do you all think? Brain?
It seems like I'm making more torque than most (250lbft) and less hp... strange.
I am thinking, my compressor inlet is too restrictive (gutted MAF is there for example, BEGI air filter too small?) or my exhaust system is holding things down, or something else is wrong/different. AFR is 11.x-ish at those levels. Timing is 16-18.
What do you all think? Brain?
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10-07-2008, 03:13 PM
#74
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Yea, still on the OEM cat. It hasn't died like the rest of my engine, so it hasn't been replaced. So that's holding me back most probably? Will look for something else then...
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10-08-2008, 10:26 AM
#76
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The oil cooler is mounted at the top, between the radiator and the intercooler (BEGI #2):
Picture from bottom:
http://picasaweb.google.com/laurens....28319662546386
The radiator is has been moved backwards slightly to make plenty room for the oil cooler. It would allow us to put a fan on it, not done yet and I doubt we will. I did remove one horn unit because it would bang against the oil cooler.
Need more info?
Picture from bottom:
http://picasaweb.google.com/laurens....28319662546386
The radiator is has been moved backwards slightly to make plenty room for the oil cooler. It would allow us to put a fan on it, not done yet and I doubt we will. I did remove one horn unit because it would bang against the oil cooler.
Need more info?
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10-08-2008, 10:53 AM
#78
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Should be okay like this. I will need to refit the under tray and I may add an air scooper to aid the radiator and an inlet in de bumper to aid the oil cooler if I need to. Something like this for example:
Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
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10-08-2008, 10:54 AM
#79
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Should be okay like this. I will need to refit the under tray and I may add an air scooper to aid the radiator and an inlet in de bumper to aid the oil cooler if I need to. Something like this for example:
Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
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11-01-2008, 03:20 PM
#80
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Wow, first track sessions since rebuild went 99% fine. Power is very good and I kept up with most. Not counting loosing traction due to 195 and open diff.
Single issue: had this (blue) hose come loose in the last session so I need to fix that before Tuesday when I have my next track day.
It comes off at the arrow. I assume due to high pressure when water temp climbs.
What can I do to fix that connection? Hair spray? Different clamp type?
More details:
Picasa Web Albums - Laurens - Rebuild
Single issue: had this (blue) hose come loose in the last session so I need to fix that before Tuesday when I have my next track day.
It comes off at the arrow. I assume due to high pressure when water temp climbs.
What can I do to fix that connection? Hair spray? Different clamp type?
More details:
Picasa Web Albums - Laurens - Rebuild
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