Spookyfish rebuilding daily/track car - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-25-2008, 06:51 PM   #61
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Looks great!
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:55 AM   #62
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Very nice.......!
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:02 AM   #63
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Car is driving fine now. The oil cooler has been removed awaiting correct GOODRIDGE 1136 couplers. Car get up to temperature quickly (normal), heater works, CLT is around 90C, oil up to 100C (212F) during high way driving.

The ACT HD clutch is very easy to get used to combined with the shaved OEM flywheel. You can really feel the power this car wants to make, but I am still breaking the engine in and the base map I am running is pig rich and very conservative on timing.

The Mazda Motorsport motor mounts do make you feel and hear more engine noise and vibrations, but it feels tight.

I just installed my new L-TEC deep dish steering wheel. Overall (w/90mm deep dish and hub) the wheel is only 1" closed, maybe less. Perfect, and you can still control the turn signal and wiper stalks.

I did mess up the horn and airbag connectors on the clock spring, so I have no horn and an airbag warning light. I will figure something out to keep the car road legal: I need a horn and a washing bottle as mine was deleted during the intercooler install.

Thursday we are going to dyno tune the car!
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:27 PM   #64
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So, going out for a full out dyno session tomorrow. That is on a steady state 4WD SuperFlow dyno. They will tune all rpm and load ranges.

We did a short run last week while it was pig rich (< 10:1 AFR) and basically un-tuned for fuel and spark. Boost control was regulating up to 6psi. We made a misserable 135rwhp and 160flywheel hp. Also, power was degrading after 5500rpm, I don't know boost at that level. I attribute this all to the low boost and poor base map I was running.

We'll see about that tomorrow. I am going to aim for up to 250rwhp at around 14psi. How feasible is this with my 1994 1.8 8.6:1CR and everything?

I will recheck if the wastegate is tight to keep it all shut up to 14psi (I have EBC).
I will put in new fresh plugs (1 step colder, just like now)
I already run Castrol 10W60 synthetic oil
I am planning to have them tune up to 7000rpm and then retart the rev limit to 6800. Depending on where I make peak power.

And tips, hint and other input?
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:01 AM   #65
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I am giving you all a live update, after 30mins we are at 207hp flywheel and 177hp wheel. More to come.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:11 AM   #66
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Uhm, 190/220hp (wheel/flywheel)
No, 200/233hp
No, 210/244hp

Torque is 235lbft at around 4000rpm but is dropping of. Max power is at around 5000-5500rpm and not increasing after that. It seems like we're loosing boost higher up... maybe the wastegate is ported just a little too well?

Last edited by Laur3ns; 10-07-2008 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:42 AM   #67
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Wastegate is now tighter by two full turns. That is much better... we need to dial down boost control now to stay out of overboost protection (16psi). We were making 260lbft at around 4500rpm which is too much.
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:40 AM   #68
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So, here goes:

I'm not sure if I'm missing HP or that I'm in DINhp and you guys are using something else as a measurement. The car is plenty fast however
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:36 AM   #69
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God that graph is screwy...

SAE = kW * 1.3410
DIN = kW * 1.3596217

so 214.3 DIN = 211HP

200 DIN @ 6500 = 197HP

197HP * 5252 / 6500 = 159 TQ


Nm = lb-ft * 1.355816

263 NM @ 6500 = 194 TQ .... doesn't add up?!


the torque is based off the engine HP.

243 DIN @ 6500 = 240 HP

240HP * 5252 / 6500 = 193 TQ

193 TQ = 261 NM



So, based on all that. I'd say the results were 211rwhp / 212 rwtq. If i did my math right.

if the 250 number was really rwhp and it's just labeled funny, then it would be: 247rwhp / 249 rwtq
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:46 AM   #70
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You got some err, more like [email protected] if you read the chart, thus 192lbft.
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Old 10-07-2008, 12:16 PM   #71
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still.. it's high. green and blue lines go together. the final numbers I go should be correct.

are you not holding boost to redline? regardless of teh numbers you seem to have heavy torque loss after 4500RPM.
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:08 PM   #72
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We reach ~ 14psi around 3800rpm and hold it up to 6600rpm at least. This is after we increased the waste gate spring pre-tension. So we're (no longer) losing boost at higher rpm, but torque is dropping of and we have an almost flat hp curve from 5500-6500rpm.

It seems like I'm making more torque than most (250lbft) and less hp... strange.

I am thinking, my compressor inlet is too restrictive (gutted MAF is there for example, BEGI air filter too small?) or my exhaust system is holding things down, or something else is wrong/different. AFR is 11.x-ish at those levels. Timing is 16-18.

What do you all think? Brain?
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:54 PM   #73
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Still rocking the OEM cat in your first post? Back pressure is a bitch. Opening up the exhaust, if not done so already so put your peak HP closer to 6800.
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:13 PM   #74
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Yea, still on the OEM cat. It hasn't died like the rest of my engine, so it hasn't been replaced. So that's holding me back most probably? Will look for something else then...
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:18 AM   #75
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in for oil cooler mounting.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:26 AM   #76
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The oil cooler is mounted at the top, between the radiator and the intercooler (BEGI #2):
Picture from bottom:
http://picasaweb.google.com/laurens....28319662546386

The radiator is has been moved backwards slightly to make plenty room for the oil cooler. It would allow us to put a fan on it, not done yet and I doubt we will. I did remove one horn unit because it would bang against the oil cooler.

Need more info?
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:29 AM   #77
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i want to put fresh air on the oil cooler because I probably need all the air I can get for Texas summer track days.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:53 AM   #78
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Should be okay like this. I will need to refit the under tray and I may add an air scooper to aid the radiator and an inlet in de bumper to aid the oil cooler if I need to. Something like this for example:


Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:54 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Should be okay like this. I will need to refit the under tray and I may add an air scooper to aid the radiator and an inlet in de bumper to aid the oil cooler if I need to. Something like this for example:


Currently I was seeing 101C (214F) coolant on the dyno and I have no record of the oil at that time. But I regards a dyno as a less than ideal environment.
I'd like to get more air on it considering its a 24-row.
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:20 PM   #80
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Wow, first track sessions since rebuild went 99% fine. Power is very good and I kept up with most. Not counting loosing traction due to 195 and open diff.

Single issue: had this (blue) hose come loose in the last session so I need to fix that before Tuesday when I have my next track day.

It comes off at the arrow. I assume due to high pressure when water temp climbs.

What can I do to fix that connection? Hair spray? Different clamp type?

More details:
Picasa Web Albums - Laurens - Rebuild
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