Are you repacking the bearings with that redline supersexy bearing grease?

The spec miata kids found that the oem bearings would last several seasons, but that new oem bearings have a 1.5 weekend lifespan. Something about using cheap china grease in the new oem stuff. There's a writeup somewhere on specmiata.com

 

Interesting about the bearings.

Yeah, with ducting, everything is awesome. Without it, I'm not used to EVER going over 160 (where my thermo is at) but it'll drift back and forth to 185 or where ever I set the fans to come on now... It's very sensitive to outside weather, though.

 

Damp, wet, rainy track day at Assen. Beat the hell out of some 12yr old Potenza's in about 45 laps. Did a 2:31.6. Pretty happy with that as the only cars that were significantly faster had aero, rain tires or is called KTM X-Bow, or any combination of the above.

Power was very useless apart from the three straights and mostly hindering corner exit. Did 70% of the layout in 4th gear. Two 3rd gear corners and a bit of 5th gear. Top speed 115mph today.

Ducting held up very well, water was at tstat opening temp 90% of the time. Oil 10* above that.

Really want a set of rain tires now as the guys on rain race rubber where flying and pulling 1g in the rain.

 

Pics from a day at Zolder (Sept 2):

 

?? What did you do wrong? I just did a car with ES diff bushings and MS motor mounts, and there is no discernible increase in NVH. The customer was really worried about it, and after driving the car once even he said he couldn't tell a difference - aside from the phenomenally improved shift feel.

You want NVH? Go try some MMR motor mounts, then drive yourself to the dentist so he can re-insert your fillings.

 

Good to know. I am actually going to do the diff mounts this winter along with the 4.1 Torsen I have in my garage. Or maybe sooner once I convince myself it's only a 2hr job.

 

You really need the right tools. I wouldn't bother without a press or an air hammer. Torch the outside to separate the adhesive they use, and then just hammer or press them out. Once you figure out the first one, the second is easy. With the right tools, it really is a 1 hour job.

 

I have air tools, so I really need something like this?

 

Or you could drill through them so the inner ring separates from the outer one, should be able to press out the remains with a screwdriver. That's how I did it

 

So you've done all this already? When are you coming over to doing this job? I have the open diff on my car and the torsen pumpkin next to it.

 

I have the 949-sold diff bushings and MS engine mounts and noticed no change on the street. For some reason when on track, with r-comps, I can feel the road surface much more.

 

same day we're gonna put the sawzall to your rear bumper?

Swapping the guts isn't too bad, but I don't have the proper tools (big *** caliper for setting backlash) anymore though...

 

No need for setting that, I've had the unit as a whole ecked at a transmission specialist. I have this as one unit (half a unit actually), ready to go on:

 

I put the same combo in my car as well... the NVH increased slightly but not enough my wife noticed it. I can't speak to improved shifter feel since I rebuilt the shifter while stuff was apart, but the powertrain definately moves around less. As for installing the diff bushings, it took Nick and I about an hour to change them out with a press. I didn't even bother heating them up, I bent back the metal lip on top, supported the diff ear well (Find a piece of thick wall tube a little taller and larger diameter than the bushing) and pressed. Use a LOT of the ES goo they give you for the new bushings, that's the key to them never squeaking. Be SURE to wear gloves and clothes you can afford to toss when you mess with the ES goo... it does NOT like to come off.

Here's Nick while we're pressing in the new bushings, note the piece of aluminum between the bushing and the press piston.


You wouldn't need to set backlash to swap pumpkins complete... only if you take the diff/ring gear out of the pumpkin.

 

My bad, I swapped guts too when installing my LSD, that's why. But in that case, how about sunday? Should be done in a few hours tops I think...

 

How solid are all these mounts you're talking about? A friend has a set of nylon ones I was thinking of swiping...

Oscar: Like the AV. Of course, I just ran mine up with the MS and a stim when I wanted to. It's shocking how non-linear the tach is btw.

 

The MS motor mounts are still rubber but a stiffer variety... it's actually hard to tell any difference with a stocker and MS in your hand (unless your mounts are really fucked up, mine weren't). The ES poly diff mounts are about as stiff as the suspension bushings... ie much harder than stock but still have some give to them. I'd think the nylon would be stiffer yet. Probably less NVH than solid aluminum mounts, more than stock, very slightly more than poly.

 

Could you say any more about the MMR mounts?

 

I drive them, daily. Horrifying, especially when cold its ridiculous. If it idles smoothly bellow 1k, it's relatively smooth and quiet at stop lights and such. Very loud once RPMs start gaining. However when I'm driving "spiritedly" its amazing the feel. I want to say I can feel what the car/engine is doing 100% more.

 

Ducts in place, piping still on back order.