This is 0-60mph in 5.3s and 0-100kmh in 5.5s:

Datalogging with RaceChrono on Nokia E75 and external 5Hz Qstarz BT-Q818X Bluetooth GPS receiver.

No launch control, no flat ****, sloppy diff mounts (2nd-3rd under load is rough sometimes).

 

Reattached oil drain:


Overview: copper coated nuts, shortened studs, firewall tray bend:


Made slightly more room for the downpipe near the firewall tray. Also shortened the studs from the turbo turbine outlet so the downpipe would slide over more easily:


Some head studs shortened slightly too so I can fit a ring wrench over them:

 

I am having the full set of engergy suspension bushings installed today and tomorrow. Front end is done, rear end sort of half way - that is until they find out what it takes to do the diff mounts bushings...

Something wrong here?

 

Looks like how mine did, and still do look. They get forced off to one side. I went with all OEM bushings and wish I hadn't. Cost 4 times as much, and do nothing for performance. I thought I was fixing a noise at the time, but it never went away. Why don't you do it yourself, its a lot of fun I promise. A good bonding experience with your car too.

 

@NA6C: Ok, should be fine then.
Myself? No, I am too busy working right now, don't have a garage I can work in and need the car on the road ready for the Nürburgring today or tomorrow.

 

All done except for the differential bushings. That would take yet another day and I cannot miss the car. I just found out my ABS is dead. G*dd*mm*t! Now I can take the car back to have them fix that - if they can.. Any suggestions on the ABS? I already took a look and wiring seems in tact and I cleaned the sensors with brake cleaner spray. ABS light goes off and the on once I start moving, so it's probably missing a sensor or something.

 

Front left sensor was FUBAR. Replaced with used part, which fixed it. The End.

 

Very nice build indeed. Is it pretty common to have an NA mx5 with ABS and Airbags??

Mine doesn't have either and its a 1994 Eunos Roadster.

 

How did you end up with that?! Are those the ES bushings?

 

Uh yeah, don't understand.

 

More progress:
* MSPNP circuit changed to avoid the POP
* Water Wetter to be added
* New gauges (lineair CLT, WBO2 and a clock)
* Lots of Nürburgring practicing (rFactor mainly)

 

Very nice build! I wish I could test out my new parts on the Nürburgring

 

Nice build, Spookyfish!

If you haven't done the rear diff bushings....don't!!! The other bushings were fine. The rear diff made the NVH almost unbearable at highway speeds above 70mph. That, coupled w/ the Mazdaspeed motormounts made my car go from fun autox car to "I hate driving on the highway!"



Hopefully TurboTim and Paul will have some pics of my Absurdflow build (A/C and PS). Much thanks to those guys and of course Braineack and y8s (I bugged him w/ a few phone calls and PMs).

 

Thanks.
Don't care - car is 99% track only, but thank for the warning

 

Some updates:
* Shift light in dash, currently set at 6900rpm (redline 7200rpm)
* Extra gauges: water temp just before rad, AFR and a clock because it's a gay car

Also created some electronic 'det cans'. I wired a 3.5mm jack parallels between the knock sensor and KnockSenseMS. The jack goes to my tuning notebook and some headphones from there. It works brilliantly. I actually heard some knock at higher boost levels around 4500-5krpm so I cut 1 degree and richened the mixture. Im running 11.2 everywhere in boost now. Car pulls really smooth now that Ive done that. I suppose my engine has seen some detonation since the built, but it's still pulling strong - we will see how long things last

 

I dunno about those three gauges. I know they're very purposeful, but the interior is fairly curvy and flowing, and although those are curved on the top, it looks like you just put 3 huge blocks on the dash. I did this with my water temp gauge:

And although Savington and others will get on your *** about it being useless if its below your general line of sight, it worked great for me at a recent track day. I could glance at it in the middle of a turn or on a straight, my hands never blocked it.

And what's the coiled cable for? I don't see any buttons

 

Water temp is an issue here so I wanted it in line of sight. It looks less clucky IRL actually. Other than that I have my Alfa for looks, this one for speed.

That cable is for the horn (center steering wheel button) as I killed to original wiring. I hang it up when getting in/out.

 

Going to do some test work at the Zandvoort track. Only 3 sessions of 30mins each, but that is enough to test:
a) if the turbo will stay put this time
b) the brakes are good (bleeding nightmare)
c) cooling is ok

I've done some ducting today: I modded the OEM splash pan and used some (not in the pictures) cardboard to force the air through rather than around the radiator. The splash pan mounts in the OEM location, just the sides had to be shortened. Should create far less pressure under the hood from underneath so should flow more air through the heat exchangers. Might do a little highway testing later tonight.

 

duct tape = man's best friend

 

Today was dyno day.
I put down 275Nm (202lbft) and 233rwhp all at the wheels.
Vids and MLV later.