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Sure is impressive how many companies make tack driver rifles these days.
I remember way back when it took a glass bedding job and an aftermarket barrel and some custom handloads to get a rifle that would shoot 1 moa in the real world.
Is that a left hand thumbhole stock on a right hand action?
Sure is impressive how many companies make tack driver rifles these days.
I remember way back when it took a glass bedding job and an aftermarket barrel and some custom handloads to get a rifle that would shoot 1 moa in the real world.
Is that a left hand thumbhole stock on a right hand action?
it IS a left hand thumb hole on a right hand bolt. It also has a removable 10 rnd box mag, so it's pretty much a bench rest queen. I bedded the action & floated barrel. This was my first time doing so, and I'm happy with the results.
I want to solicit some opinions on how to completely weatherproof a wooden rifle stock. I already own this extra stock, and it's not worth anything, so there's no downside to experimenting a little. It's for a camping/trail/brush gun, so I want it to be as absolutely weatherproof and hard-wearing as possible. Bonus points if it's submergible. My current plan is to soak the wood with epoxy resin and then coat it with truck bed liner anywhere it doesn't actually make contact with the gun, since the tolerances obviously wouldn't allow that.
I know this forum has members from all sorts of different fields, and I'm curious if anybody has experience waterproofing wood like this.
I want to solicit some opinions on how to completely weatherproof a wooden rifle stock. I already own this extra stock, and it's not worth anything, so there's no downside to experimenting a little. It's for a camping/trail/brush gun, so I want it to be as absolutely weatherproof and hard-wearing as possible. Bonus points if it's submergible. My current plan is to soak the wood with epoxy resin and then coat it with truck bed liner anywhere it doesn't actually make contact with the gun, since the tolerances obviously wouldn't allow that.
I know this forum has members from all sorts of different fields, and I'm curious if anybody has experience waterproofing wood like this.
A few coats of this will make it indestructible. Cover all exposed wood, even on the inside open areas.
I just want to make sure your link went to the right thing - what I see is Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. I have oil finished many stocks, and while it is a lovely finish and certainly is weatherproof enough for a couple hunting trips per year, moisture and rain will permeate it and cause warping and cracking, if exposed enough. I really want a finish that will survive the nuclear holocaust. I use a vacuum chamber to stabilize wooden knife scales with resin, and if it was big enough I'd absolutely put the stock in there.
I finished a shift **** with 50/50 spar varnish & naptha. Wipe on with a rag many many coats. Don't need to sand in between coats, and you could pound nails with it afterwards.
I just want to make sure your link went to the right thing - what I see is Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. I have oil finished many stocks, and while it is a lovely finish and certainly is weatherproof enough for a couple hunting trips per year, moisture and rain will permeate it and cause warping and cracking, if exposed enough. I really want a finish that will survive the nuclear holocaust. I use a vacuum chamber to stabilize wooden knife scales with resin, and if it was big enough I'd absolutely put the stock in there.
I guess I have never beat on it enough to see it fail.
Another option might be the Alumahyde that is epoxy based. I have heard very good things about it.
At the end of the day though, might be best to just replace all the wood and go synthetic. I don't know if there is anything that will truly let you put a piece of wood in water and not degrade over time.
At the end of the day though, might be best to just replace all the wood and go synthetic. I don't know if there is anything that will truly let you put a piece of wood in water and not degrade over time.
I would if I could, but this is for a Marlin 1895 straight stock, and the only readily available synthetic stocks are with pistol grip - a man has to have some standards, pistol grips on lever actions take us one step further from God. Of course, MPI custom stocks would be glad to bang one up for me, for $400. Better to just experiment on the wood!
My father in law died from covid last week. He bought a Henry 30-30 last year and only got to shoot it once. I really wanted to take him to the range this year when the weather warmed up but did not get the chance. His wife gave me the rifle (not a side loader).
I want to solicit some opinions on how to completely weatherproof a wooden rifle stock.
For boats, the answer is thinned epoxy. You get whatever epoxy you want, then thin it out with acetone. Thin the first coats to water consistency, and really slop it on. Put on as much as the wood can absorb. It will take much longer to cure (at least 24 hours, maybe more), and then you do it again. Subsequent coats are thinned a little less each time. When it just coats the surface but no longer soaks in, you are done. Finally, you coat it with polyurethane varnish, because most epoxy is not UV stable.
I refinished a rotten plywood transom on an inflatable boat this way. Made it heavier, but it was rock solid in the end. Worst part is making sure each coat is fully cured before starting another.
My father in law died from covid last week. He bought a Henry 30-30 last year and only got to shoot it once. I really wanted to take him to the range this year when the weather warmed up but did not get the chance. His wife gave me the rifle (not a side loader).
Condolences to you for your loss. And that is one nice looking rifle. I love my lever action.
For boats, the answer is thinned epoxy. You get whatever epoxy you want, then thin it out with acetone. Thin the first coats to water consistency, and really slop it on. Put on as much as the wood can absorb. It will take much longer to cure (at least 24 hours, maybe more), and then you do it again. Subsequent coats are thinned a little less each time. When it just coats the surface but no longer soaks in, you are done. Finally, you coat it with polyurethane varnish, because most epoxy is not UV stable.
I refinished a rotten plywood transom on an inflatable boat this way. Made it heavier, but it was rock solid in the end. Worst part is making sure each coat is fully cured before starting another.
This is what I was going to say, although not so well. People have been forced to find ways to solve the submerged wood problem in the boating industry already. I used a similar process when replacing a wooden transom in my boat.
My father in law died from covid last week. He bought a Henry 30-30 last year and only got to shoot it once. I really wanted to take him to the range this year when the weather warmed up but did not get the chance. His wife gave me the rifle (not a side loader).
Those are fine rifles. I'm glad he did get to take it out once. I'm sorry for your loss.
My father in law died from covid last week. He bought a Henry 30-30 last year and only got to shoot it once. I really wanted to take him to the range this year when the weather warmed up but did not get the chance. His wife gave me the rifle (not a side loader).
Is there really any advantage to having an SBR lower when pistol braces are a thing? My friend said you can just shoulder the brace like a stock
Only the design matters, not the subsequent use. So long as the weapon is designed for single handed use, it doesn't matter if you subsequently use it with more than one hand. I have a 22 target pistol with a scope that I fire from the shoulder with my hand on the barrel (no brace, it's just a big target pistol with a can on the end). This doesn't make it a rifle. Likewise, using the isosceles stance doesn't make a pistol into an AOW just because you grabbed it with two hands.
The advantage to SBR is basically:
* you can use foregrips without breaking the "foregrip + pistol = aow" rule
* your can use "stocks" instead of just "braces"- stocks are generally more comfortable and sturdy for shouldering
Only the design matters, not the subsequent use. So long as the weapon is designed for single handed use, it doesn't matter if you subsequently use it with more than one hand. I have a 22 target pistol with a scope that I fire from the shoulder with my hand on the barrel (no brace, it's just a big target pistol with a can on the end). This doesn't make it a rifle. Likewise, using the isosceles stance doesn't make a pistol into an AOW just because you grabbed it with two hands.
The advantage to SBR is basically:
* you can use foregrips without breaking the "foregrip + pistol = aow" rule
* your can use "stocks" instead of just "braces"- stocks are generally more comfortable and sturdy for shouldering
*you don't need to worry about the BATFuckbeuponthem capriciously changing their rules turning you previously legal pistol into a now illegal SBR. Which they have already tried a couple times to do recently, and successfully did with bumpstocks.
For boats, the answer is thinned epoxy. You get whatever epoxy you want, then thin it out with acetone. Thin the first coats to water consistency, and really slop it on. Put on as much as the wood can absorb. It will take much longer to cure (at least 24 hours, maybe more), and then you do it again. Subsequent coats are thinned a little less each time. When it just coats the surface but no longer soaks in, you are done. Finally, you coat it with polyurethane varnish, because most epoxy is not UV stable.
I refinished a rotten plywood transom on an inflatable boat this way. Made it heavier, but it was rock solid in the end. Worst part is making sure each coat is fully cured before starting another.
01-11-2021, 12:00 PM
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