rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

I can understand state fruit/veg. I am a tomato farmer and I want to build a business. I support my state govt official and in return get some free publicity. State bird??? Not sure where the money trail goes from there...

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I have not done enough research on 300 ACC to know if that 10.5" kit is better than this 8.5" complete rifle (bullet drop, etc). Also, when I finally do put a can on it I don't want it to be too front heavy.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-...ve-pistol.html

My first thoughts on solvent trap was "screw em", I'm not doing anything illegal but will have to read up on it. Thanks for the heads up on "quickest stamp". I don't like the precedent that the Trump administration set with the bumpstock ban. If they outlaw something else I legally purchase I am just going to flip. FWIW, I traded my last bumpstock for a $100 winning lottery ticket. I was going to bury it in the back yard for when the boogaloo hits but decided against it. I'm too old to fight the system.

Roda

IIRC, .300BLK was originally designed to burn the powder charge in 9" of barrel, so an 8.5" shouldn't lose anything.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Depends on what you want to do with it.

If talking "toy", with supers, you're probably not gonna notice a significant drop difference until well outside 200yds... probably more like 250. Likely not going to be shooting subs past 100yds, so whatevs.

If hunting, the problem with 300blk subs is bullet expansion... extremely limited supply of 200+grain .30cal bullets that will expand. Hornady, Lehigh Defense, Cavity Back.. a few others, but EXPENSIVE.

Aluminum cup kits on ebay are like $20... monocore like $50. Wouldn't be a bad idea to buy a dozen of them just to have laying around. "screw'em" is one option. Thanks to Hillary opening her mouth after the Vegas shooting, the HPA was taken off the table. Likely gonna need a full-red Congress and be halfway through Trumps second term before they bring it up again. But if it passes, you'll be able to pick up decent all-aluminum suppressors in every gunstore for $15... steel kits for $50... in a couple years, it would be tough to find a centerfire rifle that didn't come threaded.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

It will never come back up again. All it takes is one shooting if someone was trying to bring it up and it would be DOA. Too much chance for someone who voted for it to be called a baby killer. I'm afraid that no firearm friendly laws will be passed for a very long time.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Damn, that seems expensive for just a toy compared to https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Da...rd_p_7944.html
+ $85 toolcraft bolt carrier group.

Roda

Those Shockwave braces suck... the PSA kit comes with the SBA3 brace and Magpul grip (together about $80 more than a Shockwave and mil grip). Add in your $85 bolt carrier group, and you're within $30 of the PSA kit, and you still need a handguard that doesn't suck.

Pretty much a wash, really, when you consider the different components.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Ehh I don't like the magpul grip that much. And I actually like that handgaurd since I don't put mall ninja **** on my forend and I could go either way on the brace. I wish there were more options for suppressor compatible handguards.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I have been shopping for a 1911 for some time now. The ones I really want (like Kimber) are premium models and therefore command a premium price. Some of the cheaper options are sloppy at best. I even looked at several used ones, and at least one was so loose that the slide rattled!

So, as a hobby machinist, I decided it was time to build my own, to make the fits as nice as the better examples out there, without the matching price tag. Time is of no consequence, and if it takes me several years, that is just fine. Just as a point of reference, this will not be for carry, but simply a backup woods gun when I'm hunting and a casual shooter/plinker other times.

As a result, I have been shopping the various frame manufacturers. Aluminum, stainless steel, plain steel, steel with polymer grip/mag well; and that's just the materials. Front grip already checkered or DIY, frame size, etc. The options are somewhat bewildering. I like the idea of aluminum for easier gunsmithing, but am somewhat concerned for strength and/or service life due to fatigue. Thoughts and opinions will be welcome.

So, has anyone built one of these? Which manufacturer/vendor did you go with, and would you use them again? Parts kits (Rock Island, for example) can be bought complete, or each component can be purchased separately. Recommendations for going either route?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Once I get my Bridgeport in a bit you can swing down to Charleston with the wife in the winter for vacation and I can let you do some work if you want.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'd prefer a steel or stainless frame since it can be left raw or easily black oxided, blued, or even cerecoated (with the rails masked). Aluminum will need to be hard coat anodized for the rails.

You would be surprised at how many companies, even premium brands, buy 80% frames from Dassan with the completed barrels coming from the same place.

Roda

Some of us are old enough to remember when most 1911s rattled.... In fact, I've fired more than a couple 1911s that were great shooters and sounded like tambourines...

I've had several Kimbers over the years, both good and not so good. Still have two, both older production, that are good shooters. These days, I wouldn't pay the premium as I don't think they're up to their price point. Springfield Range Officer, and Loaded are really good at the price point. I've almost bought a Range Officer Elite, on a couple of occasions, but I'm holding out for another TRP. I'm still kicking myself for getting rid of the one I had. The Rugers are also a pretty good value, especially if you can pick one up used. They're nothing special, but well made.

Quote:

So, as a hobby machinist, I decided it was time to build my own... So, has anyone built one of these? Which manufacturer/vendor did you go with, and would you use them again? Parts kits (Rock Island, for example) can be bought complete, or each component can be purchased separately. Recommendations for going either route?

I haven't personally built up a 1911 in many years, but a friend who's more plugged in has good things to say about the Caspian frames/slides. If you're building a shooter, steel. If it's a carry gun, aluminum. Race gun, go double stack polymer. Parts 'kits', usually contain the lowest common denominator parts, not something I'd want building a 1911. I've had the pleasure of being acquainted with some top flight 1911 builders over the years, and building one is not nearly as 'paint by the numbers' as building something like an AR. Do your research before diving in...

On another note... getting irritated with PSA. Ordered a gun over a week ago, and it still hasn't shipped.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Things are kind of coming together a little at a time. I ended up purchasing a PSA 10.5" pistol kit in 300 aac because I liked the way the longer pistol felt. I went with the shorter hand guard for the suppressor since I will never shoot supersonics through this setup. I also purchased a Makita RT0701C trim router to complete the 80% lower. My Form 1 for the suppressor has been efiled but is being held up for some reason. I've heard this is kind of normal so I will give them a week or so before I ask questions. I bought 200 rounds of subsonic ammo to get me through for a while but will roll my own when the time comes. I need to come up with some ideas on what to laser on the suppressor and lower. I'm thinking a don't tread on me snake on one side and come and take it on the other for the lower. I'm going cheap on the suppressor build (pre formed freeze plugs) but will buy a nice 8" tube for it. I sold one of my AK's to a friend to finance some of this but total cost is going to be $2000 by the time I finish (new reloading stuff and table, new tools, etc).

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-...165490427.html

sshamrockk

After being a lazy turd for 5 years, finally got my license and first gun. The irony is I work for a big name competitor of sig, and get smoking discounts. But they aren't even close in comparison to the p365.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

License for what? Surely, you're not hunting with that thing.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

In Massachusetts, a state-issued license is required in order to own a firearm.

Roda

Aren't even close, in what? Clunky ergonomics? High bore axis?

All joking aside, over 40 years of shooting has taught me that quality among tier 1 manufacturers is roughly equivalent across the board. All of them occasionaly pop out a turd, but aside from preferring particular design elements, qualitiy is really pretty good.

sshamrockk

Yea need a license to purchase here in mass.

The one I was looking at was just physically larger, and holds 3 less rounds than the p365. plus it takes a few months for my order to come in vs the hour drive to get the sig lol.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Engraving completed on the 80% lower. No one at the range will understand it but I am giggling like a little girl... I also got my Form 1 approved yesterday and ordered my solvent filter kit. 1.5 x 1.36 @ 8". Two stainless cups and 5 titanium cups. Will direct mount the titanium tube. This project is starting to come together.

Roda

Curious as to how long your approval took? E-Filed Individual Form 1?

ATF approved a bunch of Individual Form 4s in ~60 days from early August, but it appears it was a deliberate attempt to fudge their average approval times, which they've been getting flak for.