Redline Time Attack/Super Lap Battle rebuild thread
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![Matt [exz3owner]'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23d0529a' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>M</text></svg>)
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
I will buy one and I eagerly await the configuration data for MSpnp, written for a 5-year old so I can understand what's going on.
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From: Enschede, NL
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
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The 99+ wheel is really odd... It has 4 unevenly spaced teeth. The most popular engine management option on the board (MS1) can't do anything with it.
The MS can however deal with any wheel that has equal spacing between the teeth.
Generally the more teeth on the wheel, the more accurate the computer will fire spark and fuel, but there is a point of diminishing returns. This point varies by application--the MS1 comparatively is already imprecise. More accurate solutions will see greater gains as tooth count increases (MS2, Hydra, etc).
The MS can however deal with any wheel that has equal spacing between the teeth.
Generally the more teeth on the wheel, the more accurate the computer will fire spark and fuel, but there is a point of diminishing returns. This point varies by application--the MS1 comparatively is already imprecise. More accurate solutions will see greater gains as tooth count increases (MS2, Hydra, etc).
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And it's still cam driven. I don't get why this is so hard.
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We (Jesel) use rare earth magnets on our front drive CAS kit, cheap and easily available from McMaster, epoxy them in to a simple machined rotor, use a MSD non-magnetic sensor, etc. But it's only 1 pole for simple cam location reference for standalones...actual timing is based off a crank wheel which is the only way to go in race engines.
Using a simple waterjetted wheel with a magnetic sensor or a wheel with epoxied magnets and a "non magnetic" sensor would do the same thing as long as it's on the damn crank. The more the merrier as long as your ECU can handle it.
Using a simple waterjetted wheel with a magnetic sensor or a wheel with epoxied magnets and a "non magnetic" sensor would do the same thing as long as it's on the damn crank. The more the merrier as long as your ECU can handle it.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
We (Jesel) use rare earth magnets on our front drive CAS kit, cheap and easily available from McMaster, epoxy them in to a simple machined rotor, use a MSD non-magnetic sensor, etc. But it's only 1 pole for simple cam location reference for standalones...actual timing is based off a crank wheel which is the only way to go in race engines.
Using a simple waterjetted wheel with a magnetic sensor or a wheel with epoxied magnets and a "non magnetic" sensor would do the same thing as long as it's on the damn crank. The more the merrier as long as your ECU can handle it.
Using a simple waterjetted wheel with a magnetic sensor or a wheel with epoxied magnets and a "non magnetic" sensor would do the same thing as long as it's on the damn crank. The more the merrier as long as your ECU can handle it.
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I actually was talking to JC (ATI owner's son, basically the guy who does all the development work) today about the Miata damper, I should have asked if he'd throw magnets in there. I'm sure he would or know of an easy way to do it...there's mounting bosses on there already (or at least optional for the OEM crank trigger wheel) and making a simple waterjetted rotor should be simple. The bracket would need to be done, and whatever tweaks to the software of which I am no help. I'll ask JC next time I talk to him. He's supposed to call or email me some info tomorrow on a project I'm working on.
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I actually was talking to JC (ATI owner's son, basically the guy who does all the development work) today about the Miata damper, I should have asked if he'd throw magnets in there. I'm sure he would or know of an easy way to do it...there's mounting bosses on there already (or at least optional for the OEM crank trigger wheel) and making a simple waterjetted rotor should be simple. The bracket would need to be done, and whatever tweaks to the software of which I am no help. I'll ask JC next time I talk to him. He's supposed to call or email me some info tomorrow on a project I'm working on.
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I don't understand why everyone's so hung up with putting magnets on the wheel. You just need a wheel made from a ferrous material and a magnetic pick up.
I've seen ATI wheels offered on the FM website.
I've seen ATI wheels offered on the FM website.
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