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Old 12-07-2015, 06:33 PM   #61
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Who knows. Maybe the bearings are shot, maybe there is a crack internally. Unless you stripped the turbo down to the bearings you can't be sure.
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:33 PM   #62
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Do you have an AFR gauge?
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:43 PM   #63
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A tiny exhaust leak at idle might be a massive gas leak under load.
You need a new manifold regardless.
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:48 PM   #64
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Quote:
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A tiny exhaust leak at idle might be a massive gas leak under load.
You need a new manifold regardless.
Yea but it's not gonna be enough prevent boost completely
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:05 PM   #65
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Do you have an AFR gauge?
I do it will go one when my test pipe comes in
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:38 PM   #66
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Please stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge in.

I repeat: stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge installed.

Then wire the wastegate flapper shut as Aidan suggested. Don't go WOT and hold it at that point, just see if it makes more boost than it did before. IF IT GOES TO ALLOFIT BOOST AT THIS POINT, GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE BEFORE YOU BLOW **** UP.

Please don't do anything else til you get the AFR gauge installed.
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:41 PM   #67
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Please stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge in.

I repeat: stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge installed.

Then wire the wastegate flapper shut as Aidan suggested. Don't go WOT and hold it at that point, just see if it makes more boost than it did before. IF IT GOES TO ALLOFIT BOOST AT THIS POINT, GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE BEFORE YOU BLOW **** UP.

Please don't do anything else til you get the AFR gauge installed.
OK
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:42 PM   #68
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It has a haltech AFR meter in it but it doesn't function correctly.
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:41 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hificruzer226 View Post
It has a haltech AFR meter in it but it doesn't function correctly.
I will rephrase this for turbofan then...


Don't get into boost until you get your AFR gauge working.
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:53 PM   #70
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Indeed.

Also, I realize that the AFR gauge is not what's physically stopping the car from building boost. But you need it before you build boost.

Wiring the wastegate flapper shut is the next step, AFTER a proper AFR gauge is installed and working.
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:53 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
Indeed.

Also, I realize that the AFR gauge is not what's physically stopping the car from building boost. But you need it before you build boost.

Wiring the wastegate flapper shut is the next step, AFTER a proper AFR gauge is installed and working.
Weld it shut, then have all the boost!



(OP- do what turbofan said, but wire the wastegate OPEN)
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:29 AM   #72
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+2 for welding shut. You paid for boost. You should have all the boost all the time. Why compromise?

I'm guessing you have a shitty ebay bov leak to match the shitty ebay exhaust leak. If not that then your IAC is VTA or something.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:32 AM   #73
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+2 for welding shut. You paid for boost. You should have all the boost all the time. Why compromise?

I'm guessing you have a shitty ebay bov leak to match the shitty ebay exhaust leak. If not that then your IAC is VTA or something.
There currently is no bov installed I bypassed it and the intercooler to help via process of elimination
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:50 AM   #74
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Quote:
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OK here is some along with questions

I didn't know Megan racing had a turbo manifold for the 1.6
If you don't place a physical barrier between the throttle cable and those exhaust parts it will melt because it is plastic. If it melts and the throttle sticks open, which does happen, you might die in a fire, which is generally considered an unfavorable outcome.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:52 AM   #75
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Pics of IAC plumbing, please?
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:48 AM   #76
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If you don't place a physical barrier between the throttle cable and those exhaust parts it will melt because it is plastic. If it melts and the throttle sticks open, which does happen, you might die in a fire, which is generally considered an unfavorable outcome.
Thats already been done, as well as the vacuum line. Well it is just tight up against the firewall but you are right I do not some form of heatshield. Any ideas? Dei, custom?
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:01 AM   #77
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Pics of IAC plumbing, please?
idle air control valve plumbing correct?
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:04 AM   #78
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Don't ya just love figuring out someone else's project problems!

This thread needs more photos, cold side, hot side, back firewall. Your BOV bybass... errr teh thangs.
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:07 AM   #79
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Don't ya just love figuring out someone else's project problems!
yea, I think its good for me. Its a really good learning process that will help me further my miata knowledge as well as automotive. As well as appreciate a well functioning turbo system. Plus by the end of this we will have a really good thread on what to do if you are experiencing a no boost condition.... I told you I would contribute to the community
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:52 PM   #80
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Idle air control valve, yes. Show me where it is connected.
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