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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #61  
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Who knows. Maybe the bearings are shot, maybe there is a crack internally. Unless you stripped the turbo down to the bearings you can't be sure.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #62  
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Do you have an AFR gauge?
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #63  
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A tiny exhaust leak at idle might be a massive gas leak under load.
You need a new manifold regardless.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Monk
A tiny exhaust leak at idle might be a massive gas leak under load.
You need a new manifold regardless.
Yea but it's not gonna be enough prevent boost completely
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:05 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Do you have an AFR gauge?
I do it will go one when my test pipe comes in
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #66  
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Please stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge in.

I repeat: stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge installed.

Then wire the wastegate flapper shut as Aidan suggested. Don't go WOT and hold it at that point, just see if it makes more boost than it did before. IF IT GOES TO ALLOFIT BOOST AT THIS POINT, GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE BEFORE YOU BLOW **** UP.

Please don't do anything else til you get the AFR gauge installed.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by turbofan
Please stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge in.

I repeat: stop searching for boost until you get the AFR gauge installed.

Then wire the wastegate flapper shut as Aidan suggested. Don't go WOT and hold it at that point, just see if it makes more boost than it did before. IF IT GOES TO ALLOFIT BOOST AT THIS POINT, GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE BEFORE YOU BLOW **** UP.

Please don't do anything else til you get the AFR gauge installed.
OK
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:42 PM
  #68  
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It has a haltech AFR meter in it but it doesn't function correctly.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 10:41 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Hificruzer226
It has a haltech AFR meter in it but it doesn't function correctly.
I will rephrase this for turbofan then...


Don't get into boost until you get your AFR gauge working.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 10:53 PM
  #70  
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Indeed.

Also, I realize that the AFR gauge is not what's physically stopping the car from building boost. But you need it before you build boost.

Wiring the wastegate flapper shut is the next step, AFTER a proper AFR gauge is installed and working.
Old Dec 7, 2015 | 11:53 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by turbofan
Indeed.

Also, I realize that the AFR gauge is not what's physically stopping the car from building boost. But you need it before you build boost.

Wiring the wastegate flapper shut is the next step, AFTER a proper AFR gauge is installed and working.
Weld it shut, then have all the boost!



(OP- do what turbofan said, but wire the wastegate OPEN)
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 08:29 AM
  #72  
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+2 for welding shut. You paid for boost. You should have all the boost all the time. Why compromise?

I'm guessing you have a shitty ebay bov leak to match the shitty ebay exhaust leak. If not that then your IAC is VTA or something.
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 08:32 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
+2 for welding shut. You paid for boost. You should have all the boost all the time. Why compromise?

I'm guessing you have a shitty ebay bov leak to match the shitty ebay exhaust leak. If not that then your IAC is VTA or something.
There currently is no bov installed I bypassed it and the intercooler to help via process of elimination
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Hificruzer226
OK here is some along with questions

I didn't know Megan racing had a turbo manifold for the 1.6
If you don't place a physical barrier between the throttle cable and those exhaust parts it will melt because it is plastic. If it melts and the throttle sticks open, which does happen, you might die in a fire, which is generally considered an unfavorable outcome.
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #75  
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Pics of IAC plumbing, please?
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 09:48 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
If you don't place a physical barrier between the throttle cable and those exhaust parts it will melt because it is plastic. If it melts and the throttle sticks open, which does happen, you might die in a fire, which is generally considered an unfavorable outcome.
Thats already been done, as well as the vacuum line. Well it is just tight up against the firewall but you are right I do not some form of heatshield. Any ideas? Dei, custom?
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:01 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
Pics of IAC plumbing, please?
idle air control valve plumbing correct?
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #78  
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Don't ya just love figuring out someone else's project problems!

This thread needs more photos, cold side, hot side, back firewall. Your BOV bybass... errr teh thangs.
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:07 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
Don't ya just love figuring out someone else's project problems!
yea, I think its good for me. Its a really good learning process that will help me further my miata knowledge as well as automotive. As well as appreciate a well functioning turbo system. Plus by the end of this we will have a really good thread on what to do if you are experiencing a no boost condition.... I told you I would contribute to the community
Old Dec 8, 2015 | 11:52 AM
  #80  
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Idle air control valve, yes. Show me where it is connected.



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