W/G wire on 4I.

this is seriously not hard.

 

Yes. And if you have the clutch switch bypassed like so many do then that would keep launch control from working if wired to the red switch.

 

if you had the bypass in place launch control would be always active depending on how it was setup.

 

Which was Nials problem if I remember correctly.

 

Nope that is the OEM boost solenoid thingy, which is unhooked for my EBC setup. Am I to understand this solenoid keeps the wastegate from seeing any pressure until 3700 to help spool? Like just an on/off switch? Kinda cool.

Edited OP's first post (sorry Vlad) to include values, shown below again. These are stolen from the MSM base map, and apparently NOT one of the calibrations available from the drop down menu.



Really need this one answered!

 

831?

 

For req fuel?

 

Yes at 60psi the sheet says they're 831cc. At 43.5psi it's something like 725cc.

 

Doesn't really matter. req_fuel is just a multiplier.

FIC injectors require you to increase the ve table quite significantly anyways (around 60-70%VE at idle) so plug whatever in and just adjust the VE table until youre back to a normal AFR at idle.

 

This^. Samething with the ID 725 I have. Think I have 854 pluged in for required fuel.

 

I can't speak for DIY, but my assumption is that they are not driving the speedometer with the MS, but simply tapping into the VSS signal which is output by the instrument cluster in order to enable vehicle speed in datalogging and for features that can rely on vehicle speed as a variable. In theory, the MS could be used to drive it, but the way Mazda engineered it makes it potentially a little more of a headache than just intercepting a single signal wire.

 

MS is just using the digital signal from the VSS, it's not creating it.

 

Correct. The Mazda ECU does not drive the speedometer, and neither does the MSPNP.

 

Here is that screen shot Ben

This is with the clutch pedal pressed.
Nothing lights up

Haven't pulled the MS yet to check the jumper inside is set correctly like you said it should be.

 

The engine needs to be running or the indication won't light up.

 

for S&Gs, try switched 1.

ived read elsewhere that the clutch switch is wired to DSI1, not 2.

 

I realize I took screen shot with car off, d'ohh. But it doesn't do anything with it on either.

I tried 1 and didn't work either, but I'll try again just to make sure.

 

Ok, tried 1 like Braineak suggested and it works now. It's violent lol

Then I went to hook up the EBC and here is the error it gives me when I enable boost control:

what the crap is this? I wired it to "boost out" pin R on the back connector, and sourced +12v from the fuse box.



please help.

 

Go to here:



And find where boost out is used.

 

ITS NOT USED ANYWHERE.
I checked like 10000 times. I will post screen shot.
I'm seriously getting pissed off at this stupid thing.

and it keeps losing settings, like thermistor calibration, had to re-calibrate it today.
And it does not communicate with VSS, because fan wont turn off despite being set to 40mph.
And VSS settings were in there wrong, so it wasn't even working right before I fixed it.