Overb reaction ftw I pulled my bumper and I indeed popped a Ic pipe. I just couldn't feel it from where I was. I wish I had the megasquirt in now because these wastegates are never accurate. I had to shift early because it didn't stop spooling. I'm thinking about modifying out like my old one where I cut the spring (gave me 4 psi opening pressure) and used mbc to dial it in

 

Glad you found it. I told you it was a popped pipe. What is your WG set at? Is it a EWG or internal? MBC works pretty decent, EBC can be a pain in the dick. I freakin told you you didn't blow your engine...funny thing is, I can see you turn out like me. What I mean is, you'll run that stock motor until it puts a rod through the block or it smokes the entire time you're driving it. Mine hasn't done any of those things yet, but sooner or later it will!

 

I run an internal waste gate. It's supposedly set for 8psi. My mbc was set for 7. It's running alright now. It's a bit richer at idle then I'd like. I may give the megasquirt another go soon.
In other news an open header mustang kept trying to race me last night. I was babying my motor for fear of blowing it up. So finally I gave in he downshifts deafens my right ear and I...part throttle 4th gear and hit a massive 5 psi. He beat me, but not like I expected him too. With megasquirt and more boosts I probably would have beat him.

 

Ok so I want to try the ms again. I swapped it in last weekend and it fired up when I changed the required fuel to 13.2 (stock injectors). My question now is the timing. I have the FM timing wheel set to its maximum retard. When I swap ecu's do I have to put it back into the stock position or swap on there stock wheel? I ask because it looks like base timing on the ms is 16* I was getting a misfire at the stock setting (when I first installed my turbo) so this kind of concerns me. Also I don't have a timing light but I'm sure I could borrow one. But I'm not entirely sure what I'd be looking for, just the ms and physical timing match? And if it doesn't do I just change it in the ms?

 

If your spark table in idle cells says 16* and your timing light shows it to be 16*...then it's good. I have a feeling it'll be 6* off though if the timing wheel is set to full retard. There is no advancement on the FM timing wheel, only 6* retard. Set the wheel to the 0 or stock position and check timing calibration.

 

Ok cool. I will try again this weekend. Is the timing something that would be tuned by the autotune or do I have to do that myself? Cause that worries me a little bit.

 

timing can't be tuned by autotune, have to tune it yourself, road or dyno

 

Don't mess with timing, especially a reverant base map. Only mess with fuel to achieve correct AFR's. Timing should only be messed with if you have appropiate tools like a DET can or a dyno tune session with good knock detection.

 

Yeah, the timing map is good enough to make power yet be det proof with decent gas. No need to mess with it.

 

Set your fm wheel back to stock. Then install the MS, next goto the spark settings and set the timing box to -10 so that it puts timing at 10 degrees. Next you need to open the box to adjust your timing angle in MS. Adjust that until you are reading the correct timing on the pulley and timing plate with a timing light. Then change the spark setting back from -10. Then save your msq. Your timing should be set then. Normally at idle you will run between 16-20 degrees of timing.

 

Cool thanks. I will look into it. I'm probably going to try again this weekend, I'll see if I can borrow a timing light from someone at work.

 

Ok so stock timing wheel is in, ms is in, stock injectors are in. It fires right up but won't stay running for more then a few seconds.

 

datalog? tune?
possibily not enough fuel or a list of other things

 

I have a datalog and tune to upload. The car never stayed running long enough to get an a/f log though. It could be too little fuel though. One start I raised the warmup enrich a bunch, the car died but when the lc-1 kicked on afterwards it showed 14.5ish afr that should be in the log. Ok the log is to big to upload. I will grab another one and put it up.

 

Here is a log.

 

at startup its hard to go off the wideband.
disable overrun fuel cut off for now.
Looks like overrun fuel cut off came on and caused fuel to cut off and rpms to drop off.
whats the wideband gauge?
You maybe overfueling it.

 

That makes sense. It definitely smells fuelly. I will try that.

 

Reduce the numbers in Startup/Idle -> PWM Idle cranking duty by 5% and try again.

 

Ok I did what rev said. Best result yet. I'm uploading a log now

 

Fix your MAP sensor settings. Tools -> Sensor calibration, select "MPX4250" from the list and hit burn.