You just updated the TPS SIG and VREF? (Which also seems to have something to do with the TPS according to the wiring diagram I've been looking at)

 

Run ALED directly to the fan control pin. It doesn't need an on-board relay. I am wondering if you destroyed the little transistors in the relay circuits.

ALED WLED and IAC have on-board FETs.

 

I some how convinced myself that the pins on the board (4a, 4b,4c etc) were backwards from the car harness. (i.e. 4a on board was 2b on car and 4b on board was 2a on car etc.) I thought it was strange that diy would do this. Well they wouldn't, because they are smart. All the letters on the board match the letters on the car harness. I'm apparently just retarded. Well, at least I check, and check again before I implement something. I caught the mistake and fixed it. I'm sure that will avoid some headache. I also double checked to make sure that my car harness was back to stock after removing my LINK. I had to move a couple of wires , but nothing major.

 

Thanks Ben! (Again) This was it! Fans are running fine.

 

Has anyone her an idea, what could be the problem of the not correct working TPS signal at the MS2? Is there something wrong at the picture or is it a software setting problem?

 

Have you added a variable TPS (aftermarket) to the car? The stock 90-93 Miata did not have one, just a switch type (on/off) TPS, which doesn't do much for the MS so you wouldn't use it. You'd use MapDOT for accel enrichment.

 

TPS Sig should be going to 4L not 4Q
Vref needs to go to 1N

This is if you are using VTPS

 

@DJP0623
Thank you, i will try this.
Edit: I just saw, i dindt solder the "TPS Sig" to any PIN *oops*, also the VREF. I did not, because in the Manual from Matt there isn´t any hint to to that.

@Foundsoul
We use a TPS from the Automatic Miata, that have a VTPS.

 

I'm unable to get a RPM reading in tuner studio when I turn over my car.

The cranking light comes on, I can see various things happening in the dials but RPM doesn't go over 0rpm.

I've noticed in the jumper sheet from DIYAUTOTUNE that the Pullup is for OPTO+ yet OPTO+ isn't actually connected to anything and OPTO- is connected to 4E.

Why would the OPTO+ pullup be connected if it's not being used? Should 4E (crank angle sensor) actually be connected to OPTO+?

 

You should have a 470ohm resistor across gnd and 12V at opto+ and hook the crank signal to opto-. Make sure you did not install the opto-gnd jumper and set ignition capture to falling edge for NA sensors or rising edge for NB sensors.

What sensors are on your car, NA or NB? Do they match the ignition type you selected? Did you hook up the cam signal to VR2 and install that resistor to 5V?

 

OPTO+ 470ohm resistor GND - 12V
OPTO - 4E (4E according to my wiring diagram is Crank angle sensor)
OPTO GND Jumper not installed.
Set to falling edge.
VR2 connected to 4G. Resistor is GND - 5V

Should be NA sensors. I just used everything NA when I put the NB motor in. Everything runs fine on the stock NA6 ECU.

 

What is your spark mode? Do you have any other engine management devices hooked up?

DJP or one of the other 1.6 guys can confirm the cam/crank pins.

 

Spark mode: 4G63
Trigger angle: 10
Use cam signal if available ON
Skip Pulses 3
Ignition Input Capture Falling edge
Spark output going high (inverted)
number of coils (wasted spark)
Spark A output pin d14?

No other engine management devices connected.

Looking at the starting attempt in MegaLogViewer with RPM x100 turned on the cranking does pulses of 0 then 100rpm. Is this normal for cranking? What kind of cranking RPM should I be looking for?

 

Settings look right to me. Crank at 200-300 rpm.
Check and double check your wiring. It's easy to pop that wire into opto+ instead of opto-.

You're saying you have other gauges working correctly (MAP, etc)? Which version firmware are you running? Are you watching for teeth in the diagonostics section of tunerstudio? Does the "not synced" label at the bottom of the dashboard every go to "synced" when cranking?

 

It's not reading a cranking speed anything like that.

The Opto wire is definately in opto-. I've checked many times. :(

Yeah the other gauges appear to work to me. I'll try to do a datalog tomorrow and post it up if I can't get it going.

I'm using the 2.1.1 firmware.

I'm pretty sure it was showing me teeth. The line was a bit jagged but it goes up and down.

It was flashing between synced and not synced as it cranks. What is the correct information for the sync light?

 

It has to be synched to run the car correctly. There's a problem somewhere. Your CAS might be on the way out; I've heard of aftermarket computers that won't run on a sick CAS where the stock computer still can for a while. Make sure your solder joints are good on the board--just put the tip of the iron on the joint long enough to liquify the solder again, and let go. The joints should be smooth and shiny. Check the wiring at the CAS as well. If everything checks out, you may very well need to replace your CAS.

 

Fuelpump is running?

Just for testing: Jumper F/P and GND in the Diagnosebox, that will start the Fuelpump

 

Why replacing the CAS, he wrote with the STOCK ECU the car is runnning.

 

How do you turn off sequential injection in tunerstudio? I haven't wired the car for sequential yet, but want to start it up.

I also installed my vtps today. calibration readings are 117 (pedal out) 899 (pedal pressed to floor).

Question about setting base timing. With the LINK ecu you would select a setting that was supposed to hold the car at 10 degrees and adjust the cas until it said 10 degrees on crank pulley. Should the CAS position be ok with the new ecu? I'll throw a timing light on it when I get it running, but I want to make sure that I have the base settings in tunerstudio correct.

 

You turn off seq the same way you turned it on. Go to Advanced > Sequential and change Sequential to Untimed Injection.

To fix the timing, you go to More Ignition Options and change Use Table to Fixed Timing and type in 10.0. Verify timing with light. If you're pretty close, you can enter a "trigger angle/offset" value to bring you to 10. If you're more than a couple degrees off, rotate the CAS first.


Please re-read. I was clear the first time.