I have found in the past working on my old SR20DET that Nissan uses something to hold the nuts in place. If you can find a way to COMPLETELY secure the studs from backing out you should be good to go and would not have to drill for safety wire. Attached is an image of the part I am talking about at Step #2 of Disassembly. Take it from me... Even with the manifold off the engine this thing was a PITA to remove so I could get at the nuts to remove my T25. The idea is that the tabs bend up onto and over the nuts to hold them in place and prevent turning altogether. Worked quite well on my SR. Just a new idea to pass you guys way... This is T2 specific, however I don't see it being VERY hard to make one off any/all applications.

 

^ The Nissan part you speak of has been mentioned many times in this post....

 

Who is it that sells the thick ss gasket in t3 size?

 

Nice.

 

T3 Turbo Inlet Gasket - CI Motorsports
Use the dropdown next to the price to select the stainless one.

 

I had a feeling it may have been... Just WAY too many pages to go through to check.

 

Don't be a search *****.

 

You'd think I'd have seen this before. Thanks. Now I need "search this thread for posts by"

 

I can't believe you idiots are still trying to figure this **** out. It was outted a dozen pages ago.

 

Really? I missed the post where someone who didn't weld the turbo to the manifold said, "This is what I did and I've beaten on it for five track days at sub-SM lap times and everything's held."

 

change the metal or buy v-bands. /thread

 

Well, here's your example. I tried a gasket (sourced from ATP) in late 2007, the nuts backed out, the flanges came loose, the gasket blew out, and no matter how tight I got the nuts it never sealed up again. Removed the gasket, new hardware, new nuts, sealed up (until my next track day).

Cool. Bring tools to the track with you - I would suggest two box wrenches in the size your nuts come in, so when one of them gets too hot to hold you can use the other.

The welding that Spookyfish did serves the same purpose as the safety wire job I did - the nuts and studs cannot move in relation to each other, period. The difference is he used Resbond and 304SS studs, and I don't think anyone else has tried it. He's on his 5th track day, no plastic deformation of studs, which is more than 98% of the people in this thread can say.

Translation: "I think you're all wrong, even though I have absolutely no experience with this problem, and instead of following the empirical data presented in this thread I am going to suggest the same stupid bullshit that has failed in the past"

 

"advanced search" -> "search posts by"

 

Sav for President.

 

SAFETY WIRE STARTER KIT from Aircraft Spruce
Im going with 308L SS 10mm tru bolts,safety wired,.1875"thick washers,locknuts and these lock plates.I think I will not have a problem.with occasional track and daily driver use.
-G-

 

I already told you idiots to get an inconel gasket from "twins," but you're all to stupid to listen to me... Which is another reason why your girlfriends will never want you like they want me.

 

I hand lapped my mating surfaces with a hard stone,they are dead flat.I dont need a gasket.
-G-

 

I'm going to try the famed Hustler Iconel gaskets along with Belleville washers. Have never had a problem at the head, it's been the mani/turbo/dp connections that have given me trouble.

 

How many people here would be interested in an Inconel hardware setup? M10 studs, correct lengths, with nuts. Reasonable costs, although I need to get a quote on the specific alloy before discussing a more exact number. Under $200 for sure, probably well under that.

If there is some interest, I'll get a set for testing, borrow someone's turbo car, and go flog it for a weekend somewhere, just to make sure they will solve the problem.

 

I volunteer Nicks car... lol