Price is really close between TSM and Maruha, but I would get Maruha any day over any extended top hat I have seen, minus certain machined from billet options.

 

Yeah if you don't need the extra 5mm of space, the Maruha is the nicest one i've used so far.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone, I just emailed Maruha for a quote for 4 of the mounts.
I am going to go with the 450/300 spring rates for that plush ride. Here's my Kitty as a thank you

 

Props awarded for a beautiful kitty.

 

Another Tampa guy. Yes, you will need the plush ride in Tampa's streets. And plenty of available bump travel. You will definitely need the extended tophats.

Did you post a "Meet and Greet" thread in that section? There are several of us in your area.

 

For NBFL car it's better to have all 4 extended tophats? Or its OK for rear only? 7" springs, 450/350 (f/r)

 

For 90-05 Miatas, you want 4 extended top hats.

 

Got it, thanks!
Emailed to Maruha too

 

Hey Six

I will need to write up a good post for the Meet and Greet Section

Good to know there are several Enthusiasts around, could help save on shipping costs in the future

Let me know if you have any spare turbo parts/upgrades laying around, I may be interested in some depending on where I go with my car

 

Just paid for 4x Maruha 20mm Top Hats, cost 172$ shipped to Tampa

I went through and updated my parts list to QA1 springs to help prevent spring binding, added another set of Coil Spring Isolators, and halved the number of spring washers (As I believe they aren't needed at the top of the spring due to the Isolators being glued to the Maruha Tophat, correct me if I am wrong?) I am using Hard S Shocks.


2x QA1 High Travel Coilover Springs 7HT450
2x QA1 High Travel Coilover Springs 7HT300
4x Maruha 20mm Top Hats NC 10-28-340_C
4x RideTech Delrin Spring Washers 70010828
1x 4” Coilover Sleeve & Nut Set
2x Energy Suspension Coil Spring Isolators 9.6103G
4x Integra Speedthane Shock Bumpers 310 3019-50
8x 2 3/8-in x 1-1/2-in fender washers(these washers are twice as thick as HDR Washers) / M14 Fender Washers AKA HDR Washers



I believe this is the correct order for everything to be assembled in, could someone go through this and make sure its correct? I read through the entire thread a few times but sometimes the fender washer location varies per person.

- OEM 14mm Nut (Torque to 24 ft/lbs or until bushing begins to compress)
- Bilstein 17mm Lock Nut
- OEM Washer Thing (Mazda P/N 28-774) (Can be subbed by M14 Fender Washer)
- Bottom(largest diameter) nub on Integra Speedthane Bump Stop
- Maruha 20mm Extended Top Hat
- Coil Spring Isolator 9.6103G (Glued to underside of Maruha top hat)
- Other OEM Rubber Bushing (the one that fits in the hole in the top hat Mazda P/N 28-776B) (Buy new same P/N bushing or replace with something else?)
- 2 3/8-in x 1-1/2-in fender washers (replacing OEM bump stop "cup" Mazda P/N 28-777) - Not sure if these go above or below the cut integra stops? (Lowes P/N 885528 - Twice as thick as M14 Fender Washers - Only use one)
- Integra bump stop cut to 36mm (Maybe cut it at 40-50mm due to extended top hat?)



And lastly the order of the spring components


Coil Spring Isolator (Glued to underside of top-hat)
Spring of your choice
Spring Washer
Coilover Nut

Does a spring washer need to be between the coil spring isolator and the spring? Also where do I put these fender washers? Any suggestions on how much I cut the Integra bump stop as the top hats are only extended 20mm?

Thanks - This should be my last post before I start to assemble these things. Just want to make sure I can put it together once without needing to tear it all down again immediately after.

 

If internal friction is the parameter, a steel Bilstein isn't going to match a Xida. Not even close actually. Rebuilt with non-standard internals, it still won;t match the low friction of a Xida due to the differences in the cylinder smoothness and hard ano on top of that.

If consistency in valving is the parameter, again a hand built Bilstein can probably match a serial produced Xida. Serial produced Xidas are still hand built pro level shocks with the highest quality internals, super fine tolerances and QC, not "mass produced".
I am not allowed to mention brands as part of my NDA, but Tractive (Xida mfr) supplies internal shock components to major European OEM (car and bike) and most of the race shock companies that are revered here. I have to chuckle when someone assumes their $4,500 singles are superior to Xidas knowing that the some of the critical parts of their shock are supplied by Tractive

We dyno every single shock to make sure they not only match each other, but the master dyno plot for that model.
fb video here from a few weeks ago showing that process: https://www.facebook.com/SuperMiata/videos/1418231438306824/
If the actual shape of the damping force curves is the parameter, I would (and have) put our standard tune up against anything on the planet. Again, assuming that a secret handshake to a skilled shock tuner can somehow discover a "better" valving spec than what we took 20 years or Miata racing experience to develop is erroneous. We have shipped thousands of Xidas. There may be someone that has revalved theirs but we have never heard of one.

Beyond that, steel Bilsteins run hotter by virtue of the sleeve on cylinder configuration. For autocross this may not be a deal breaker. For a track car though, it is a significant factor in performance and service life.

So yeah, you can make steel Billies work very well, but they will never outperform a production Xida on a shock dyno or road course. Of this I am certain.

Carry on!

/thread drift

 

I saw that post but didn't want to comment and make a **** storm. Emilio is right. The Bilstein DIY setups are dollar for dollar a great deal and the best you can have at X price, not to be confused with the superior shock sets coming from Emilio.

 

If all thats true than the xidas are still a hell of a deal, rember, I own a set. I'm surprised you get class 3 anno to be smoother than honed steel, its easy to get it to stick to a surface that wasnt glass beaded.

 

Ordered everything I need, hope to have them assembled and installed before the end of the year

Total price of everything was 664$
Using my already installed Hard S Shocks, installing on my NB2

4x Maruha Top Hats - Extended 20mm - $172.44

 

I would have suggested saving the money on the coil spanner. I ended up finding out that an allen key worked just as good. I don't recall what size it was offhand since I had an assortment of them. I think it was 6mm.

 

Can I get some advice from you suspension experts? I get the upgrading aspect (parts and whatnot). But I don't have a clear understanding of how/when/why to get my MSM Billies (80k miles) revalved.

What is the philosophy behind revalving? Other than leaking, I don't see what the impetus would be.

Looks like upgrading + revalving would end up in the 700 + 400 = $1100 range.

Thanks!!

 

Revalve wouldbe if you want to run rates higher than what most of these guys are running in the thread.

 

So the 450/300 is fine (no revalve required)?

 

As far as I understand - no revalve until 450-550. Or if you want something fancy - like KBO or anything special.

 

I am running 550 without a re valve. Seems pretty good to me.