Sudden rough running [resolved]
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From: somewhere in NoVA
Travis made a comment earlier that I didn't catch. He said that we were the only ones having this problem. I wasn't aware of any NB's running in the US that were problem free. Actually, I thought that the only ones running it were here on this board. Maybe he meant that the US is the only one with this problem.
I am eager as hell to get mine installed... planning on this weekend; but would you guys say yes or no on going forward?
Cheers,
Prospero
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Travis, so we are all on the same configuration, which firmware version should we flash, and which version of WARI should we use? The latest official releases, or the latest betas? Regardless, I am assuming we should get both directly from the Adaptronic site download area and/or forum.
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From: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Okay, a little word from me 
The way mazda designed it on a NA miata:
A generator which just works or fails. To know there is extra electrical load there are wires from the PSP A/C headlights blower fan etc. to the ecu to gain extra rpm's at idle to make the engine more stable.
The way mazda designed it on a NB miata:
A generator that is controled bij output voltage and engine rpm's, to make a more stable output of voltage. Because of this there are no wires from the above mentioned electric users to the ecu, and mazda designed it so that a extra rpm's aren't needed.
The guys from Adaptronic mounted some resistors in the printboard to make sure the nessecary input is there for the ecu to control the generator.
The way mazda designed it on a NA miata:
A generator which just works or fails. To know there is extra electrical load there are wires from the PSP A/C headlights blower fan etc. to the ecu to gain extra rpm's at idle to make the engine more stable.
The way mazda designed it on a NB miata:
A generator that is controled bij output voltage and engine rpm's, to make a more stable output of voltage. Because of this there are no wires from the above mentioned electric users to the ecu, and mazda designed it so that a extra rpm's aren't needed.
The guys from Adaptronic mounted some resistors in the printboard to make sure the nessecary input is there for the ecu to control the generator.
Prospero; in martijn's above post, where it says "generator" read "alternator".
I wish Chad would chime in. I know there was a reason related to the NB alternator that made him use his MS in parallel.
I take it both Stein and Tex hooked up their Adaptronics as standalone. As far as we know they're the first NB miata owners with Adaptronics installed in the US.
Sorry to interfere but I just sold mine to Ismael (in Spain) and I'm concerned about this too.
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Nope the Adaptronics are still parallel installs, though 'less parallel' than the Megasquirt setup was. For example, the Megasquirt (mine anyway) did not control the alternator, nor the fans. But there are still some functions with the Adaptronic that are handled by the stock ECU, like the cruise control, and ODB-II.
Chad has not installed his Adaptronic yet, and will not be able to for awhile; I know the story but I'll let him tell it. In fact he is hoping we have this all straightened out by the time he is able to
Chad has not installed his Adaptronic yet, and will not be able to for awhile; I know the story but I'll let him tell it. In fact he is hoping we have this all straightened out by the time he is able to
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Travis, so we are all on the same configuration, which firmware version should we flash, and which version of WARI should we use? The latest official releases, or the latest betas? Regardless, I am assuming we should get both directly from the Adaptronic site download area and/or forum.
I just sent out an email asking for feedback on the Adaptronics so we'll see what happens there!
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These installations have been around for a long time, and the owner of the company at Adaptronic runs an NB I believe with zero problems. I asked them if there was ever an issue with any size of injectors, and they said no.
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From: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Nope the Adaptronics are still parallel installs, though 'less parallel' than the Megasquirt setup was. For example, the Megasquirt (mine anyway) did not control the alternator, nor the fans. But there are still some functions with the Adaptronic that are handled by the stock ECU, like the cruise control, and ODB-II.
Would it be too hard to let the car's ECU control the alternator with the Adaptronic? This way at least we would know it's not related to that.
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I've had mine mine installed for a month or so now. Drive the car 3 or 4 days to work each week, 70miles r/t. Very satisfied with the way it's running. Just need to get the closed loop idle working. No issues like ZX is seeing but still running stock injectors...
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Somewhere along the way one of the trigger inputs was swapped from crank (360) to cam (720). I don't know where it happened, but I almost bet thats the reason these cars have been misbehaving... 
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Post up tonight if you see anything else wrong, I'll change it tonight, and drive my car tomorrow.
EDIT: Sure enough, I just downloaded the NBB-VVT map from the Adaptronic site and it shows Trigger 1 set at 360. Though I do not have a VVT, I guess the same thing applies?
There is an MX-5_BP map on there too but it is completely different so I am not sure that is the right one to look at.
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Thats all I see. I should of caught that on the first time around... I don't know if that for sure is the problem, but that definitely wasn't going to help because that is the trigger that controls ignition and fuel timing... The other bank indicates phase. (combustion or exhaust stroke)
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OK FWIW I changed the setting to 360 and the car is idling in the driveway as I type. I have everything turned on (lights, a/c, stereo and am going to let it keep idling to see what happens. I am running a log.
EDIT: No dice, that did not fix it, car ran the same.
EDIT: No dice, that did not fix it, car ran the same.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; May 7, 2009 at 11:30 PM.
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No ****?! Wow... Well, that is an easy fix. Tell me what to change and I'll go try it right now!
Post up tonight if you see anything else wrong, I'll change it tonight, and drive my car tomorrow.
EDIT: Sure enough, I just downloaded the NBB-VVT map from the Adaptronic site and it shows Trigger 1 set at 360. Though I do not have a VVT, I guess the same thing applies?
There is an MX-5_BP map on there too but it is completely different so I am not sure that is the right one to look at.
Post up tonight if you see anything else wrong, I'll change it tonight, and drive my car tomorrow.
EDIT: Sure enough, I just downloaded the NBB-VVT map from the Adaptronic site and it shows Trigger 1 set at 360. Though I do not have a VVT, I guess the same thing applies?
There is an MX-5_BP map on there too but it is completely different so I am not sure that is the right one to look at.
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The file set that I sent out actually had that in it. That seems to be my mistake...
I'm almost hoping this isn't it. 300 posts and 2000 views, and it was one drop down button...
I'm almost hoping this isn't it. 300 posts and 2000 views, and it was one drop down button...
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Fake Virginia
dont count on the trigger settings just yet.
on an evenly spaced tooth wheel, the adaptronic is set to "no missing tooth" and ignores the cam or crank setting.
beyond that, I dont know how adaptronic knows what's going on with the cam sensor single + double teeth setup.
on an evenly spaced tooth wheel, the adaptronic is set to "no missing tooth" and ignores the cam or crank setting.
Originally Posted by the manual
The most highly accurate sensor (that is, the one with the most pulses per
revolution) should be used to measure the ignition timing and to fire the
injector. (Tick Inj and Ign) e.g. a multi tooth wheel (If it is has no missing
teeth, then "No missing tooth" should be selected, and whether Cam or Crank
is selected makes no difference.)
revolution) should be used to measure the ignition timing and to fire the
injector. (Tick Inj and Ign) e.g. a multi tooth wheel (If it is has no missing
teeth, then "No missing tooth" should be selected, and whether Cam or Crank
is selected makes no difference.)
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