What tires?

 

I would say prob a 245 normally and up to a 275 and I do not want to have a lot of camber and also remember I have r Harris's tuckin99 replicas so a big wheel will fit

 

Sizes are cool to completely randomly name and all, but you realize how limited you are to street tires right? Do you actually have specific tires in mind? Cause you're not gonna find much (unless I'm behind on the times and a bunch of 15" tires are now made in those sizes)

 

I do not have a specific size in mind most likely A 245/45 when I wanna just burn tires off ill go with a 225 50 or 55 and for racing I wanna get a pair of Hoosier 275/35

 

gotcha. no worries. reason I mention it though is because I too was surprised at the limited size availability

 

Does anyone have an idea what offsets would be best. The 6ul is 25 that why I was thinking 12 because people with big flares have run spacers with them.

 

Why are you going so wide on the wheels? Are you planning to track the car?

As stated above, tires selection is slim for 10's.

 

Plan on taking it down the drag strip and maybe to some open track events for the most part I like the way the 10" looks and feels when driving the car also I plan to put some serious meat out back the car in its current state spins in third on the highway so I will need more rubber and Better also I already cut the quarters for the flares so the 10" wheels are the only way to go I believe. Unless you guys think an 8" wheel with a serious offset to fill the gap
Will work

 

Well if you already cut up the car then you're kinda stuck. If you want traction for going straight you want a tall sidewall with a soft compound instead of a super wide tire with a short, stiff sidewall which most people put on the 10's. I haven't looked into whats available for 10's, though. Maybe you'll find something.

What do you mean by serious offset for an 8"? Do you mean like -10 or something?

 

Well I had 10" 0 offset wheels before but they were 16 and the tire selection is even worse so now
I want 15" wheels if I don't need a 10" wheel then I'm gonna need a serious offset like an 8" wheel with a -25 or -30 to be close to flush with the fender I belive

 

Ah ok, I was going to say, there is like 1 street tire in a size that even fits halfway decent on a 15x10 and its a **** tire. With the 275 hoosiers and a 15x10 you're going to want about a +19 offset wheel to clear all the bits on the inside, a +0ish should actually get you another inch of bump travel because it will put the wheel outside the sampling where the shock tower is. Of course it makes the car 1.5 inches wider than a +19 offset wheel. My front bump travel is limited by the shock mount and the chassis sheet metal near the shock mount, it something I recently ran into and you can see my temporary solution in my build thread.

I'd go with a 15x9 for anything resembling a street tire though. With the car cutup to fit the 275 man meats the 6UL 15x9s look kind of silly and honestly a +0 wheel would be acceptable here, because it looks stupid otherwise.

 

I have been thinking more about the 6UL 15x10 it's an awesome wheel they are proven just need to figure out how well they will fill my fender flares from pics I have kind online it looks to be pretty good. I am still searching for the right wheel I think I have decided against the diamonds only because the last ones I had were 30 lbs jut for the wheel.

 

Yeah diamonds are stupid, stupid heavy. If you like how they look through you can always get spinwerks, come in around 13lbs/wheel +/-0.3 pounds for 15x10s.

 

Only thing I don't like about spin works now is they are almost $400 a wheel for 15x10 I do not like that price

 

$1200 for a set of wheels really isnt very expensive. I might feel that way because I put $1200 tires on $1200 wheels

 

Ok so I am back after another breef hiatus I did some work on the car this weekend. To recap what happened before I was getting a horrible stumble around the 5200 rpm range that would not go away and on top of that I was running out of fuel above 6300 rpm. I started by removing the stock fuel filter to see if that would help then added a bigger methanol nozzle to patch the problem. I switched to a 2.5 bar map to stop hitting boost cut and to be honest none of that really helped at all.


So this weekend I did a series of things to truely solve the problem. Went back to a stock map sensor upgraded the wiring to the intank walbro 255 and added an inline bosch 044 and a high flow fuel filter and competed the 6an feed to the rail. It was previously only from rail to stock filter now it is from tank to rail. I also added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so I could bump up my base fuel pressure a little bit and it is boost reference as well. Stock base fuel pressure is 43psi I am currently at 48 psi. This does not seem like much but with the other things added the car is running great. Currently at 18 psi with 0 timing pulled out of it. I will post some pics of the pump and regulator later for all to see. I hope to get some videos this weekend of the car running. I also have not ordered wheels yet but will be soon.

 

Way to be determined and stick it out. Fun read, fun videos. Good luck finishing things up! I vote the 6ULs if you can make them work.

 

Good to hear you're back at it. I'm confused about the MAP sensor, though. If you were running out of range on the 2.5 bar MAP, wouldn't the stock sensor be a step in the wrong direction? Its a 2JZGE right? 1 bar MAP? Or does it read better with a correction factor?

 

So with the map sensor, I am running a 2jzge non turbo motor on a JDM aristo 2jzgte ecu factory turbo so my ecu thinks my car should be turbo it works great. The factory ecu is a 2.3bar map and I am running a 5.1v zener diode to defend against boost cut. Factory boost cut is 16-18 psi depending on altitude. I switched to a 2.5bar map the same one many other people are running witch would move my boost cut up to around 21psi. This offsets the computers timing maps and fuel maps about 15% witch is not a big deal. The problem I had is after installing the 2.5bar map my ecu went crazy I could not get the car to idle the WOT was ok at best and after many many hours of trying to work it out I said well back to the drawing board.

So I started with going back to the stock map with the diode. I had a horrible stumble at 5300 rpm and 18psi of boost I thought this was where the cross over was and the diode was kicking in per say. I also knew I did not have enough fuel that was another issue. So after installing new pump and regulator with the stock map the stumble was gone turns out it was fueling all along I never had to switch the map sensor just needed more fuel. sorry for the long explination.

 

So if it was fuel stumble shouldn't you have been able to see it right away on your wideband?