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Old 05-13-2014, 03:20 PM   #2421
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Tempting, all cool cars as taught by the car mod gods of 2 fast 2 furious, shoot flames, but the OCD in me knows I'd melt my rear bumper, so no!
The OCD in me has to shoot flames. I think it has to do with my inner white trash that seems to surface at times.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:22 PM   #2422
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The OCD in me has to shoot flames. I think it has to do with my inner white trash that seems to surface at times.
We all have our inner rednecks. Some worse than others.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:53 PM   #2423
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Flame soot cleans up nicely with a clay bar. Don't fear the flames!
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:13 PM   #2424
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Yeah, I was a little overwhelmed by all this too. I had never really used a timing light before, but it's dead simple.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:03 AM   #2425
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Hmm well I'm not sure if it is just the timing light or me that is messing up. After hooking up the light to Spark #1 wire and checking timing with it fixed in TS at 10 the light is still displaying 0.

The timing light displays the correct engine revs, but the timing shows zero. Eyeballing the timing mark though shows it is holding at 10, and TS displays 10 as well. I double checked the manual to make sure it was hooked up right so I know that isn't the issue.

In the manual it says connect positive and negative to the battery terminals, would connecting the negative to the engine ground help?

I know eyeballing is a crap shoot but it looks like it matches up. This car is so damn loud. When I turn it over it revs to 4k and then goes down to idle, surprises the hell out of me.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:56 AM   #2426
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Yes. Timing light has to be grounded to the block to work correctly, at least that's how mine is.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:27 AM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I know eyeballing is a crap shoot but it looks like it matches up. This car is so damn loud. When I turn it over it revs to 4k and then goes down to idle, surprises the hell out of me.
If the timing marks are o.k. I think you are fine - my timing light doesn't even have a display...

About the 4k rev - turn your "Idle cranking duty/steps" down - I think this has to do with your adjustment at the idle screw. Cut the duty at your actual ambient temperature down in 10% steps and see whats happening...
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:53 AM   #2428
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On a digital timing light you would use the arrow buttons to adjust the timing light until the timing mark on your crank is at TDC, then the number on your timing light display is your timing.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:34 AM   #2429
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Are we really going down this long road on how to set base timing? Its easy. Hook up the ground clamp to the hoist hook that you used to pull the motor. Connect the positive to the blue clip thats next to the intake. then hook the trigger sensor to to the #1 cop harness. Then time the sucker. I dont use any fancy *** timing light and I have never had any issues.

Ninja edit. Dont trust your display trust your timing marks and the flashy light
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:36 AM   #2430
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I think this may be getting to the point where you need to post your tune
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:43 AM   #2431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
trust your timing marks and the flashy light
Came here to say this. It sounds like your timing light is far too complicated. You don't have a distributor so don't worry about the rest of the buttons on the timing light. Set it to zero and then follow one of the many many guides for setting your timing.

You can do this. srs.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:13 PM   #2432
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Thanks all. I only had about 30 minutes to mess with it the other night so I didn't have much time to look into it further. Headed down tonight to work on it again.

I'm not worried about not being able to do it, just ensuring I do it right. I'm looking at Leafy's guide for help.(https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-timing-50030/)

Don't think I'm hopeless, I am just taking my time(the little I have these days).

I've posted the tune before Scotty but here is another link if you want to take a look.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd53lxkicq...0_18.17.19.msl
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:44 PM   #2433
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Hat is a log, not the tune... ;-)
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:55 PM   #2434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Hat is a log, not the tune... ;-)
Woops, grabbed the wrong link.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvvx0tjnlo...ffbucc5-14.msq
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Old 05-17-2014, 04:42 PM   #2435
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Got some free time today and was able to confirm my base timing is correct. Zaphod recommended turning down my Idle cranking duty/steps a little which helped with the high rpm initial starting, but I still need to fine tune it a little.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:57 PM   #2436
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Here is a log of it idling

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lx9bvfgw7....07%20copy.msl

Picture of the closed loop idle settings



and a video of the slight oscillation in idle still. My TS gauge is still showing +.5-1 AFR higher than the AEM gauge. Still need to mess with the voltage calibration to get it more perfect.

I didn't apply throttle in the video since I'm not sure what setting is causing such a small throttle input to cause it to rev so high.. I see an area in TS where you can invert the TPS? Maybe the car is reading full throttle upon minor blips.

Excuse the video quality, battery in my camera is dead and used the cell phone.

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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-parallelspicture6.png  
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:32 PM   #2437
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video no worky for me says its private.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:34 PM   #2438
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I will say this your PID settings throw a red flag to me immediately

EDIT

Just looked through your log you should go back to open loop and tuned your idle better before entering closed loop.

So go to open loop and find your idle zone and make sure the ign timing is the same in the idle area. then go to your VE and do the same with your fuel so you can idle at 14.7 or close to it.
Also if your idle speed is still crazy high you will want to adjust your idle screw and then verify ign and fuel one more time so everything is nice and smooth. Now your ready for CL.

Go in and do and idle valve test in open loop this will give you settings for closed loop idle. What you want to do is set the test to 100 and work down until the idle begins to drop. Write that number down.

Then continue and till you reach the idle target. then write that number down.

Next you plug these settings in place of closed duty and open duty. Then you will be ready to tune PID.

This is shitty instructions cause im better at giving them in person then on paper but maybe this helps you idk. Rick has a great comment he made a while back on how to tune it perfectly but I cant find it. His comment was my Ah Ha moment and I should have framed it and put it on the wall.

Last edited by ScottyP3821; 05-19-2014 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:49 PM   #2439
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:10 PM   #2440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
Thanks Scotty, as always. Took/am taking a couple days off working on it. Need to relax for a while. I'll try open tuning later.

Here's a working link

Also. Is that high of a derivative a bad thing? I remember reading you don't want to dampen it that much(80+%).
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