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Old 05-05-2014, 11:48 AM   #2361
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
has an aftermarket ECU that controls the idle speed...

...manually ***** with the throttle bleed screw to set idle speed and throws all the CL/PID tuning and rpm targets to the wind.
+1
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #2362
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Hey I at least was smart enough to write down the original position!
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:30 PM   #2363
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It's almost like you're on 3 cylinders. That would explain the wet #4 and smoke.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:53 PM   #2364
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+1 please verify that youget spark on all 4 cylinders...!
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:04 PM   #2365
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Sounds like 3 cylinders fo sho
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:38 PM   #2366
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Did you already verify base timing is synced with MS?
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:33 PM   #2367
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I would unplug the FP relay, go into test mode, and test Spark A-D and Fuel A-D and see what's not firing.

Or use some archaic method like pulling and smelling spark plugs, and the use of voodoo dolls and tarot cards.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:54 AM   #2368
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Just go through and unplug each coil and see which one doesnt get spark. May be your harness, maybe a jumper(s) on your squirt. Also set your idle speed in open loop at the throttle body at your desired idle then go to CL and never touch the screw again and go into test mode to see your high/low idle steps etc etc theres several how to's around here and tune cl and never touch the screw again youll just "screw it up".(see what I did there)

Ninja Edit: Also make sure your idle VE cells are the same this helps keep idle stable and from wandering around
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:53 AM   #2369
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Old 05-07-2014, 04:49 AM   #2370
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Haven't had a chance to check the COP harness to see if it is faulty. I'm hoping that is the issue, since it will be an easy fix if so.

I never have checked the timing. Mostly due to probably foolish hopes that I didn't need to as I never messed with it in the first place...I know, stupid. Need to read up on matching the base timing.

Training all my new employees and covering shifts and working about 12+ a day leaves me with not much energy to want to work on the car.

Saying that I did get one fender done. What a nightmare. It starts out easy and gets much harder to finesse' the curve perfectly. I have the first one roughly done but I still need to do small adjustments so the curve looks right

I'll admit to cracking the paint in a couple spots. Even with a heat gun if you get the curve a little too steep, it doesn't matter how hot the paint is, it'll crack.

If I'm not happy with it, it will at least be good enough to drive long enough to have a pro do it at a later point.

normal lip






How much I pulled it in



Still looks like I may need to pull the fenders. It looks worse in the pictures than it is IRL, but oh well, it is my first time doing this. Took me about an hour and a half to do one fender, mostly due to learning how the damn tool works properly and the best angle to bend it.





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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2754.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2758.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2749.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2756.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2757.jpg  

93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2755.jpg  
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:29 AM   #2371
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That looks pretty darn perfect in my eyes...
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:00 AM   #2372
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You just need some camber. It will help pull the tire in more than you think.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:20 AM   #2373
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Less talk about stance more about getting the car running correctly.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:31 AM   #2374
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couple the track change (gets skinnier with bump) and camber curve you will likely clear when driving straight.

might have issues with it once you lower and turn hard.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:33 AM   #2375
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Yeah, I cant wait to see you out driving it at some point, I need to toss the laptop back in mine and tune for the temp changes we are getting here in Cedar City now though
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:10 AM   #2376
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You can run 9s with 225s with the fender rolling and camber, no problem.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:08 PM   #2377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vteckiller2000 View Post
You just need some camber. It will help pull the tire in more than you think.
Agreed, I also need to redo my tie-rod ball joints. With the wheels straight the passenger side wheel is not pointing straight! I thought I matched the length on both sides but apparently not well enough.

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Less talk about stance more about getting the car running correctly.
I completely agree Scotty, but I only have 2 more days to use this fender roller otherwise I don't get my deposit back! It worked out to be cheaper than going to Vegas to do it.
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:03 PM   #2378
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Get a complete alignment, especially from a company that does Miatae often, because others mostly tend to be confused by the number of alignment variables on this car (ask me how I know...)
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Old 05-07-2014, 04:35 PM   #2379
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Get a complete alignment, especially from a company that does Miatae often, because others mostly tend to be confused by the number of alignment variables on this car (ask me how I know...)
This ^^^^
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Old 05-07-2014, 04:57 PM   #2380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Get a complete alignment, especially from a company that does Miatae often, because others mostly tend to be confused by the number of alignment variables on this car (ask me how I know...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by vteckiller2000 View Post
This ^^^^
Seriously, what the hell is up with this? I've never seen so many alignment techs so consistently confused as I do with the Miata. Is it really that different or that much more complex?
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