93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#2582
Well I was trying to get a video for you guys and then the e-clip on my wastegate rod popped off and I had no power....as I found out I had no power a piece of my car decided to fly off as well...Searched for it several times but it is too dark to see. Not sure how it popped off since I remember tightening the screws down tight after adjusting it...oh well, guess I'll find it later.
#2586
It is odd how it bounces. Never on acceleration and not very often. Just on decel in 3rd gear off throttle I'll notice it bounce a little. Very odd. Tried the resistor in several places with no luck.
Do you have a picture of the ground for the I.M.? Pretty sure I have one just want to make sure. Are you referring to the ground on the back of the I.M. near the VICS solenoid/FPR?
#2590
Haha I guess so! They matched the hard top pretty perfectly so I have high hopes for the replacement lid. I still have the lids from the old car I just need to bang out a small dent and it'll be ready for paint.
Hoping when I get back from my parents I can track down the lid.
It hit the windshield but luckily didn't crack it.
Hoping when I get back from my parents I can track down the lid.
It hit the windshield but luckily didn't crack it.
#2592
130 pages of awesomeness. Thank you Jeff for all the pictures and details. I was holding off on starting a build thread until my swap starts in September, but you have inspired me to start updating/OCD Jeffing other parts in my 91' while I wait. keep up with the updates, I love reading threads like to this keep myself from being productive at work.
#2593
Did the tach ever work? Did you calibrate the tach needle after installing the faces or did you just pop it on there?
Usually, in almost every case, when someone reports a non-working gauge and they've changed the faces, the problem is the needle being pushed on roughly and the black center touching the face. The little gauge motor doesn't have much torque. Any touching on the face will make it not work.
If it's touching, you can take something like two paper clips and loop them around the needle itself. Slide them toward the black center and then pull the needle free. Then put it back on VERY GENTLY and verify that the tach works.
Usually, in almost every case, when someone reports a non-working gauge and they've changed the faces, the problem is the needle being pushed on roughly and the black center touching the face. The little gauge motor doesn't have much torque. Any touching on the face will make it not work.
If it's touching, you can take something like two paper clips and loop them around the needle itself. Slide them toward the black center and then pull the needle free. Then put it back on VERY GENTLY and verify that the tach works.
#2596
Did the tach ever work? Did you calibrate the tach needle after installing the faces or did you just pop it on there?
Usually, in almost every case, when someone reports a non-working gauge and they've changed the faces, the problem is the needle being pushed on roughly and the black center touching the face. The little gauge motor doesn't have much torque. Any touching on the face will make it not work.
If it's touching, you can take something like two paper clips and loop them around the needle itself. Slide them toward the black center and then pull the needle free. Then put it back on VERY GENTLY and verify that the tach works.
Usually, in almost every case, when someone reports a non-working gauge and they've changed the faces, the problem is the needle being pushed on roughly and the black center touching the face. The little gauge motor doesn't have much torque. Any touching on the face will make it not work.
If it's touching, you can take something like two paper clips and loop them around the needle itself. Slide them toward the black center and then pull the needle free. Then put it back on VERY GENTLY and verify that the tach works.
Glad you have gotten a kick out of the thread 0spunk7, was the mission of the thread after all. As I've said before, if I can do this, anyone can. It may take longer but just gotta do your research and be humble enough to ask stupid questions.
#2597
Hmm can't seem to find the damn cover! Use this as an excuse to get a NACA duct on the drivers side and a replacement on the passenger side?
I see carbonmiata(I'd just get the fiberglass ones from them, less $$) has a decent deal on dual NACA ducts. Pointless to have on the passenger side I'm guessing?
I see carbonmiata(I'd just get the fiberglass ones from them, less $$) has a decent deal on dual NACA ducts. Pointless to have on the passenger side I'm guessing?
#2598
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Pointless. Only on the drivers side, and then only if its ducted into a sealed airbox that feeds cool air into the air filter and engine.
Sticking it on the passenger side allows pressureized air into the engine compartment that does not come through the radiator/intercooler. This makes kittens cry.
Sticking it on the passenger side allows pressureized air into the engine compartment that does not come through the radiator/intercooler. This makes kittens cry.
#2599
Drove the car up to Cedar City this morning for work and was early so I went for a drive up the canyon. Didn't push it to hard since it had rained earlier and didn't want a reenactment of what started all this.
Took the picture right where the car was found on its roof. Kinda full circle.
Saying that I took it easy wasn't completely true though. Car handles great through the canyon sweepers and besides needing to lower the VE table a little under high boost(10-11 AFR) it pulls like a monster. I know I know video stat, my go pro doesn't like low light.
Took the picture right where the car was found on its roof. Kinda full circle.
Saying that I took it easy wasn't completely true though. Car handles great through the canyon sweepers and besides needing to lower the VE table a little under high boost(10-11 AFR) it pulls like a monster. I know I know video stat, my go pro doesn't like low light.