I will do that tonight and let you know.

 

Cool beans. If your ****'s not grinding on the street and you can wait a few weeks I can probably have you some new brackets with the right offset or whatever custom offset you need, instead of washers.


I still owe other people brackets that I haven't forgot about!

 

I'm not in a rush. The washers should work fine for now. Next track day is the last of the season. 24th. If they come in before then cool beans. Because then I can actually compare them vs 1.8 brakes. (Same track)

Car also hasn't been on the street much lol. Jack stands after MRLS then no time for anything that needs to happen.

 

After a year, are you still happy with your wideband CAN module? Any long term problems?

 

Yeah, still works great, both it and the mtxl.

 

Cool, thanks. I think I'm going to pick one up for my MTX-L, I'm tired of dithering around with grounding issues.

 

I agree, as often and as much as the megasquirt is using the wideband I'd rather it just had good clean data.

I was never able to get tunerstudio to match my gauge within a full point or so across 11.5-16.5 range on the shitty analog input.

 

T3 48AR 2 5" V Band Exhaust Flange 42AR Comp Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger | eBay
Is this the turbo that you have, if so how many miles do you have on it?

 

That's not the same exact turbo, but I think it's the same sized replacement for my turbo.

This is what mine looks like. "GSP" or godspeed turbo.



I don't know exactly how many miles, but I bet it's more than 15K on the turbo. I've had this miata from 130K, and it's at 171K now.

End of November is a full year of daily driver duty since turbo.

 

any clue on where I could find one?

 

No, not really.

T3 Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger .48AR : Godspeed Performance

Or the ebay "rev9" one, Godspeed doesn't sell turbos on ebay anymore I guess.

NEW REV9 T3 INTERNAL WASTEGATE .48AR 2.5" V-BAND EXHAUST TURBOCHARGER TURBO

I bet it's just the compressor housing that's different.

 

So I think my alternator might have finally died. I was driving home on the highway and didn't really notice at first, but all my gauge lights went dim. I had the laptop, so I brought up tunerstudio showing 12.2V at nearly 4K rpm. I'm used to 13.6-14.0 or so.

I made it home alright, it would idle fine. I turned my radio off, wasn't running the fan blower, basically just headlights and megasquirt because I wanted to get home, didn't really seem to bring the voltage up at all.

Now today I measure 11.8 on the alt at idle from a cold start, where the battery was ~12.6 before cranking. It's hard revving because the strictly linear voltage correction on the MS2 sucks and I'm nearly a full point lean, but revs don't make more volts...

I don't ever get a battery light though, what the hell?

I think I'm just going to buy an FC alt, I think that's the v-belt one with the bigger pulley. Streetcar need amps, all of them.

 

Good. I need FC alt spoon feeding.

How is the NA battery light controlled. I know the NB one is done by the ECU. I've run my battery really low and never seen one.

 

I've run without a battery and never got a light. My battery rolled and set the positive terminal rubber cover on fire, good times.

I heard a loud sound, then I smelled rubber. I shut the car off and all the lights went off, lol.

I think it's part of the alternator, but all my google-fu can't really explain harder than "it goes on when charging amps are low."

 

So a FC RX7 is about a drop in swap, if you're not mentally challenged as I am. If anything it's better than stock 1.6, the rear alt ear has a cast in captive nut instead of the flat/spring/nut set on the stock 1.6 miata.

Unfortunately, those threads are 3/8-16 and not 10.5mm bolt. I destroyed the captive nut trying to reuse my old bottom bolt, just pulled the threads clean off it. I bought a new M10x1.5 thinking it would work, not having any solid threads to compare against.

That fucked **** up worse, and is why I have a nut on back like factory.

So, for FC 1.6 miata alt swap all you need is a new or not fucked up 4.25-4.5" long 3/8-16 bolt, pretty much it. The battery light plug is on the back of this alt, but it still clears the IM brace. I used my stock belt because I'm cheap, cheap.

It makes 14.6 at idle pretty quick, great success. Sounded like a supercharger for 5 minutes, now it's quiet. Lifetime warranty for $105 bucks, we'll see how she do.

You want a 89-91 FC turbo, not any earlier.

 

I think I'm going to try and mill a crank trigger pattern into the AC compressor side of the stock 1.6 crank pulley.

The NB crank trigger wants square cut teeth, right, and will pretty much send signals the MS2 can understand natively? I'll just leave shitty CAS for cam trigger for the time being.

How deep, I wonder, would I need to make the teeth. The 99 stock plate doesn't look much deeper than a 32nd, I think I can fit that.



If I can get my hands on a crank nose I'll have a nice little mandrel, I don't think I'll have a problem cutting into the crank pulley. I saw Joe run a CPS hanging out pretty far, so as long as I get a sturdy bracket...

 

I'll send you a trigger wheel to borrow for the cost of shipping.

 

I may take you up on that. I'm still doing reading to make sure what I have planned will work.

Wheels count pulses per rev, right? So if I decrease the diameter of, say a 36-2, the pulses will come faster but the megasquirt won't care, right?

I would think the only constraint would be the tooth pitch can't get too small, so the sensor can still distinguish a tooth from a not.

 

I'll send it to you but its a waste of time. Buy a 1.8

 

Meh.

I will buy a 1.8 when it's next to free. I'm in no rush.