deezums

iTrader: (3)

My car leaks gas and cuts fuel hard when I try and do donuts. I can smell the gas inside and see it on the ground. I don't see any evidence of leaking off the top of the tank, and I don't see any down behind and around the shield covering the filler gear in the trunk. My intake manifold is filthily, if I'm leaking fuel from the lines or injectors under hood it's not cleaning the grease, dust or oil off anything under there...

I nearly gutted my fuel filler cap, all but the ball bearing rollover valve removed so my fuel tank shouldn't ever hold pressure. I've plugged the evap/charcoal line, so I don't think it's coming from there. I guess it's possible I'm dumping it up and out the fuel cap? ~1/2 full tank, so it'd be tricky...

Arrgh!

I'm going to replace the fuel filter sock and make sure my tank isn't fuckered...

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I redid the whole fuel system, all new fuel line. This **** is expensive, like $5.00 a foot. Supposed to be good for all sorts of bio-fuels I'll never run, whatever. New fuel filter. Removed the heat shield, it rattles against my mega muffler occasionally. My trunk is now a toaster oven.





I think the gas I was seeing on the ground were just blowing out the tailpipe, because I didn't see any fuel line looking suspicious and I haven't seen any drips since...

Also machined fuel rail spacers for taller gt500 injectors.






Nasty, nasty fuel sock is not right for a miata. My fuel tank is spotless, and it just has a little tiny tray baffle the strainer sits in like 1" tall. No other loose baffles...





Derp



Seems to be fixed, can turn left again. Winning!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

back to the nascar track with you

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Cars work lots better when they get good steady gas.

My cold starts are a million times better, no more rpm sags on tiny throttle inputs before it starts revving, doesn't stall if I floor the pedal, (mostly) returns to idle like a boss.



dashpot has been driving me absolutely insane, no matter what I did I couldn't get steady RPM if you were to just shift into neutral from revs, always undershot a bit. I like my overrun settings, not something I want to change.

I tuned ignition advance as always on when TPS under 2% and got crazy aggressive with the negative RPM adder. It seems to catch like crazy, revs fall free, doesn't stall at 1500 rpm for some dumb reason.

Can't wait to fine tune it a bit more.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

How do you do this sorcery. I was going to try more ASE, because its only right after starting, not just when cold.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I have like 300% cold AE multiplier, and I think 3.0ms pulsewidth adder. The super aggro timing adder might be helping, whatever happens before 2%.

If anything at all stops ignition I get intake backfires quick as hell though, when it's cold.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Donuts work again.

New tires get here tomorrow too, so I need to finish these. Bought only the best tires for my car, all $200 worth. UHP means winter, right?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

How many of you all just drive up to the tire store and have them put 205/50's on 8"?

I swear I didn't have such ******* trouble last year, but I think I just brought the wheels in.

Guess I have to dust off the truck. What a ******* pain in the ***.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Boost for Christmas, EBC makes my miata go wheee. Tiny tiny 1.6 master race spool T3 to 11 by 3,000 RPM! Never ever run decel fuel cut with EBC, don't blend well...



Also, asked tire jockies to not put wheel weights on the barrel for caliper clearance...

So, they did this. Made me cry, only things on my car that look halfway decent are the wheels. Stupid ******* bastards didn't mount the dot anywhere near where it ought to be either.



What do? Forget about it till summer? Take the weights off? Find someone who actually cares enough to do a decent job? At least put the ******* stickers entirely on the wheel...

Virtual Dyno, two pulls seem pretty close to each other. Will my 1.6 explode if I taper boost up to keep torque flat to redline? Rods only bend below 5200watever, right?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just move them to the other side of the wheel.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I can't...I just

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, that's not possible. If they are mounted inside, they have to be mounted halfway, basically dead center in the wheel. If they are mounted within 4" of the back face of the spokes, they will hit my calipers. Damn near touching the inside weights at that point.

Am I ******* stupid asking for single plane balance? That does mean wheel weights only on the inside of the rim, right? None of this ugly as **** dual plane ****.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Scott ran a hell of a lot more torque then that when he was running the T3. I would use EBC to up the boost at the top end to hold torque as flat as possible.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Really? I thought I were doing 1-1.5K better than Brian or Tom down low, with less boost. I thought ~220 were the max he ever saw on the 1.6, Tom's Turbo ran the same setup and around the same 220 ft/lbs.







Still can't believe I've got the spool up like I have. If I can hold torque flat to redline, I'd be happy. My original plan was to try and stay around 200ft/hp at 10 psi till I got to a dyno to shoot for 250, now I'm thinking I'll just save my money

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

****, that is epic spool. Wish I had gone ebay turbo.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I think the spool might be from me being mean with timing and e85.

I was about to give up on EBC again, too, going to just switch a spring check valve so I could have low boost and high boost. It actually seems to be working now, doesn't overspool when I'm running 4K down the highway and floor it.

I really, really wish there were a way to disable decel fuel percentage in positive pressure, yet leave it on while in normal driving. I like having 10% mapdot blended AE for cold starts, but any slack in EBC means the full 5-10% decel fuel amount will get subtracted while in boost, doesn't seem to care that I only ask for 10% mapdot...

I might go to msextra to bitch about that one.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Goodies from Sean, now I can actually use my brakes without worrying about melting my centering rings



Need xidas by spring, too

deezums

iTrader: (3)

My car takes too long to heat up, it sucks hardcore since it's winter.

I had 180 degree stant thermostat, with the float pin cut off. It took over 20 miles of driving to come to 170, then it wouldn't hold it. I didn't think the flow through that little hole would cause so much heat to be lost.

So I bought a new stant 195 degree. My old stant 195 would stick closed or something, temperature would rocket up to 215 before it'd drop back down to 200. I never tested either of those, just installed them. Don't know what happened to my last 195, but I think it was sticking for sure. This new one is working much better so far, I get to temp before the first stoplight I hit. Can't really tell if the temp climbs in boost with all the snow, but seems good so far.

I tested the 180 degree I pulled out, and it is cracked open at 160, halfway open at 170, and wide at 175-180. No ******* wonder.

Why are thermostats such inconsistent little pieces of horseshit?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

wrong turbo.