<p>Got bored so started designing my own map daddy board.</p><p>2 MPXH6400</p><p>One uses stock ms circuitry, the other has an output pin that can be wired to JS5. Hopefully will plug into the stock Map sensor location</p><p>Using this board as a base:</p><p>http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&amp;t=765</p><p>With my own napkin schematic</p><p></p>

 

Why make a board, can you just stack them? I don't understand.



11.57" 294mm mini brakes do not fit under 15x8 konig flatouts. The pad is supposed to be flush with the rotor diamater, probably for rotor to caliper clearance. If I keep the pad flush, I only have .03" clearance to the wheel barrel.

If I could turn the rotors down to exactly 11.5" I think it would be perfect.

11" mini rotors are more dollars



I need to buy a fucing lathe/mill of my own. I'm thinking of selling my S10 project and all the parts to make that happen.

 

<p>What changed? I thought they fit?</p><p>You can't stack the 4bar because they are a different package.</p>

 

<p>Hopefully rotors will show up and I can test in a dial-in, I'm a little worried too.</p>

 

<p>Also, how necessary is the flush pad?</p>

 

Last time I checked for fit I didn't have pads and was guesstimating as to where they'd end. The caliper needs to be up off the rotor more than I guessed. I might be able to fudge it to work with slightly custom brackets, but then I'd worry about quite literally ripping the caliper clean off the car at the wrong time.

Why do you need 4 bar? Is there something I missed?

 

<p>How much smaller are dynapros, going to check.</p><p>And for ballerness.</p>

 

They are identical in the dimension that matters, or at least I thought that's what we'd decided. Only the very front of the dynalite is hitting, 5mm wheel spacers might make it for me.

Does 4 bar fit the signal in the same 0-5V analog signal? Baller for baller is cool, but why all the trouble to waste resolution?

 

<p>What about caliper grinding.</p><p>And you just have to change the settings.</p><p>I'm using the same map sensor as the map daddy.</p>

 

I was going to tell you to try a 6mm spacer. If you don't have a wheel spacer just stick a piece of 1/4" thick steel alu in between the wheel and rotor hub.

 

I maybe could, but I don't really want to.

This is all that's hitting, I think it's far enough out that grinding here wouldn't mess with anything.



But I'd need to grind over .090" to get to 1/8" clearance, I don't care to do that...

 

<p>Which part of the wheel is hitting that? Looks like the dynapros are wider which could be an issue.</p><p>You should shoot an email to wilwood and ask if the flush pad thing is so you get maximum performance? Or is there an engineering reason.</p>

 

Even if you don't run the pad flush with the outer edge of the rotor there isn't that much room to move it in. Maybe 1/16"-1/8" before the rotor hits the inside of the caliper.

 

<p>But all he needs is an 1/8th.</p>

 

I would imagine needing an eighth of clearance around the rotor if you need the same around the caliper to wheel. That's about what there is with the pad flush.

Caliper hits wheel, not so so bad. Rotor hits caliper, the bolts or bracket are shearing off.

 

<p>Spacer might help though?</p>

 

What's the point of that stacked MAP sensor thing? I feel like I missed something.

I've been thinking about MAP sensors a lot recently. I feel like I'm going to hit the 21psi limit of the MPX4250AP pretty quickly.

 

<p>Baro correction.</p><p>I'll count you in for a board if it works then </p>

 

Real time baro correction, like if you drive up a mountain.

Something I noticed, when my megasquirt would loose sync it would "use default map" for baro correction and more often than not it would divert to the low end of the correction limits, because the engine was still making vacuum. I turned that **** off. I live in Kansas, what is hill?

I still say using 4 bar when you only need 3 wastes 1/4 of the MAP resolution you have available. They make 0-5V signal, if you use 4 bar and max 20PSI you waste half the voltage range, unless I'm mistaken.

And yes, 5mm of spacer might make the whole deal work. The angled face of the dynalite is interfering with this angled face of the flatout. Since it's all angled, I need more than 1/8" of straight out spacer, can't think of better wording for that...

 

<p>Bruh, remember I'm planning a holset build.</p><p>40psi or bust.</p>