If or someone else can come out with a mounts only swap kit, its a no brainer. Delete balance shafts, swap oil pan, remote mount oil filter, cut connector off engine wiring harness and connect to MS, Subaru cable throttle body, quad4rods bell housing, t5, custom clutch, custom driveshaft. All to get you a tranny stronger than a 6 speed with an engine that can take more power stock than most people would want in a miata all for the same total cost of a built vvt crate motor from trackspeed and a junkyard 6 speed, whats not to love.

 

Thing is I already have twin disc, 2 VVTs. Maybe if the oil pan really works out I'll look into it. But its also a whole new animal for tuning.

Maybe some day I'll do it.

 

Just put my churbo up for $100.

 

Is it a EFR churbo?

I need some catfish stickers. Gotta rep those ELBJ

 

Not really tuningwise. Its got vics and intake vvt just like my old motor. Except that it has intake ports big enough to swallow small children, and its got a 36-1 trigger wheel that works with a standard setting in MS. You can probably sell all that stuff for the BP. Or you could wait till I decide to sell my stuff and just refresh my built vvt and use my slightly dinged efr.

 

Maybe. I've seen the hell of a time you've had with leaks on that motor lol. ***** cursed.

What did you pay out the door for that motor? My build would be ebay h-beams, either supertech or weiscos, supermiata damper, and then a head build down the line.

Someday my ADD is going to kick back in and im going to get sick of the miata. I want to have it done before that happens so I can just drive.

Then I can go back to sticking a powerstroke in my truck.

 

I forget at this point. Its whatever trackspeed charges for a boost motor + the core charge + valve springs + 949 damper.

 

And you get an extra .5l of displacement

 

If I swap motors it's going to be some sort of LSx, t56 and getrag, I'm not screwing around with anything else, especially not another turbo 4. It's an easy button for a reason.

I am more than satisfied with 5 speed torque levels in the meantime. My ADD came and went, big projects never get finished especially when you change your mind every Sunday.

 

mind not changed. Just considered.

 

I have no idea why you'd go through the hassle of an MZR swap when the K24 exists.

 

Stock subframe? Thats my best guess. Or MS compatibility?

@Savington, you rate your built longblocks to 500hp.

Is there one component that holds that rating back? Or just in general. (I.E do the rods go there? Pistons?)

 

If you want sustained reliability north of 500whp, I would want to see a 2618 piston (Wiseco or something custom) and billet main caps. The pistons are an inexpensive upgrade, the main caps are not.

 

Cheaper, lighter, more common, better transmission options, Mazda motor.

 

I know how much weiscos cost and hearing them called inexpensive compared something makes my wallet hurt.

Billet mains, custom? Or are they a production item somewhere.

Would you consider super techs very reliable under 500?

I'm thinking about 2816 pistons just to handle all the tuning related "learning" I'm going to be doing. I've seen Emilio say that ebay h beams are good for 600 so I'm not as worried about rods.

What do billet mains do? Help cut down on crank flex?

 

Wooo. Truck lives again. That was painful. But with some help, and a lot of struggling I rebuilt the rear end. Keep in mind its only moved about 50 feet. And it could grenade tonight.



Big thanks to @hi_im_sean for the handholding (even though he has never done it before...) I'll blame you if it breaks.

 

I've got the Daikei and everything works. Why not take that and team it up with a short QR?

 

Because I already have the NRG paddle quick release. Which I will never get rid of. And Stefan is sending me his NRG short hub

 

Its better than it was a month ago for sure. Get your angles set and win at life.

 

fair points