IIRC, the "ABS" light is for flashing diagnostic codes, the "BRAKE" light is for indicating that there's a code present. They probably could have gotten away with just one light, but it's Bosch and you know what the Germans are like.

--Ian

 

Interesting. Because when I have a code in the system, the abs light was on, but the brake light wasn't. I guess I'll wire em both up.

 

Ed got me started rewatching my MRLS video, and my brown pants incident

Definitely was not pointed the right way here.



Happens at 2:10

 

2:02 lol.

also was a pretty decent catch, yoou make me realize i give up to soon

 

Best instructor ever

To be fair, she was right, I implemented her suggestion horribly.

There was a wall on both sides, no giving up.

 

lol but that's not the video with your 'instructor'

and yes, can't give up there

 

Oh yeah, that was squaring up the tires.

 

So much tread depth. Such wow, much deep.

 

Suggestions for ride height? Xida 700/400, RB tubular, NA susp all around, extended lower ball joints, r package tie rods.

Thinking 4.25/4.5?

Maybe 4/4.25?

 

Miata Race alignment

Sounds like the first one will work well.

 

I don't think I could get -1.4* camber if I tried with the extended LBJ.

I want a mix of the 2nd and 3rd. Not a full on race alignment, more like a mostly track but drive to work a lot alignment.

Thinking 4.25/4.5 ride height. -3* camber front -2.7* rear.

Any objections?

 

I run roughly that with the same camber and 0 toe, it's sensitive to input but manageable for DD. Encourages 60mph onramps.

 

I should add 0 toe all around.

Don't care about sensitive inputs, do care about wear

 

You want a little toe in in the back. Otherwise 3/2.7 and 0 toe front is good

 

Why the little amount of rear toe?

 

Stability.
Run a smidge of toe out up front too, car will be magical

 

Will toe out up front increase tire wear significant?

 

It can depending on the tire material, I've never had inner edges go bald though. The grip > unnoticed tire wear IMO. The rear toe is to keep the angle of thrust pointed like a rocket gimbal. I suggest a 1/8" toe-in in the rear. This has the 'power' from the tires making a / \ pattern. At least for me, it helps control throttle oversteer by spreading the angle of thrust wider, I spin out less on hard corners when on the throttle.

Don't go too low though, the bumpsteer sucks (as well as burying your lip and bottoming out on speed bumps :-(). The 93le tie rod ends and nb subframe I installed helps a lot though.

 

Martin what are Laz's alignment specs?

0 toe in the front will in practice result in just a smidge of toe out when the car is rolling iirc.

I agree on the 1/8 toe in for the rear, especially for non-stock-hp miatas.

 

I have 93le tie rod ends. No nb subframe. I think I was at 4.5-4.75 on bilsteins, so .25" lower won't hurt much. Bumpsteer wasn't bad with the stock tie rod ends.