I like my 9500i, but I don't speed. Interesting how many cops I pick out on the highway, and how many dillions I find in the city. Still haven't locked them all out yet. I don't need more things to hook up when I go driving, and the v1 doesn't indicate bands clear enough for me on its own.

Think I can trade up for a 9500ix for $150, but I don't speed or get tickets. Only reason I might is I get laser falses every time I spool the turbo up...

 

Mine is hard mounted and hardwired. Bolted to the windshield frame

 

I'm wondering if my random misfire is caused by my cam sensor wiring. The connector has been broken for a while. On the hunt for a new cam sensor wiring, and another cam sensor for my spare parts box.

 

D585s and bkr7es gapped at .028, if you blow that out something else is fucky.

You are emptying catch can right?

 

I'm not up for switching coils right now.

These misfires aren't blow out. They happen out of boost, in boost, at idle. Today the car wouldn't start for 10 seconds at a light.

Fingers crossed its coils or cam sensor.

I think so. Once the weather got wet the thing got so foamy it doesn't empty well.

 

Well, found the cam sensor plug kit. Going to order one and get it wired in. Might run a shielded signal wire back to the ecu instead of a normal wire.

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2284

 

Keep us informed as to what you find. My car has been misfiring, and I'm tearing my (limited) hair out trying to find the culprit.

 

I've been trying to get a composite log of it, and a normal log. I asked in the ms section if its possible to determine the cylinder that was firing when the misfire occured, but I doubt it is.

I'd much rather have the car be unstartable than have these stupid random misfires. I am picking up 4 100k mile coils tomorrow. A new CAS connector, and probably borrowing another CAS. So at the track I will have 3 things to try if anything goes to ****.

 

What kind of cam/crank sensor do you have on it? I don't think it's possible to tell which cylinder misfires with an NA cam angle sensor. Theoretically the NB 4-tooth crank sensor should be high-enough resolution, but I don't think the MS does it. If the timestamps in the composite log are sufficiently accurate then you should be able to post-process it, detect the misfire, and count the pulses to figure out which cylinder it is.

--Ian

 

NA cam sensor. I've been bringing my laptop and composite logging all my driving. Going back and trying to find it has been near impossible though. Even if I mark it in the log. It really doesn't show up as much in the log. No more than a big bump in the road shows up. But i can feel and hear it.

 

You would have to determine it the same way the OEM ecu looks for a misfire, by looking at the knock sensor on a per cylinder basis. From that it's very easy to see a misfire-thus why OEM use it for that purpose.

You said "random misfires". Is there any condition at all that you've identified? Example, only when hot, only when cold, only after 30 min drive, or once it ran fine and didn't misfire when I was _____. Also how long have you had this misfire?

 

1.6. No knock sensor.

The misfire right now is completely random. It has happened maybe 8 times in 6 hours of driving since the car has been back on the road (2ish weeks)

It happened once idling, a few times under cruise, a few times under full power, and a few times under half power. It has always happened when hot, but because it happens so infrequently that doesn't really mean anything.

 

Your best bet to identify the cause right now is to datalog the event and post the log. Seeing the data and what does change/what does not change during the event will really help diagnose the cause. I recommend turning off smoothing for RPM, MAP, TPS, Wideband, battVoltage too since smoothing will mask a quick change in those values and you'll never see them in a log with smoothing.

Regarding it always happened when hot, that does help. Does it NEVER happen when cold? Example, cold starts no misfire, cold restart no misfire?

When it happened idling, was that a cold start and idle to warm up? Or did you drive it before it misfired at idle?

 

The reason I can't verify it doesnt happen when cold is that the car has been cold for maybe 10% of the total runtime since being back on the road. It easily could never have happened.

I will try and catch it on log, I still don't have a log of it yet.

 

You aren't autotuning or running anything that writes to megasquirt, long term trim?

Lost sync in logs?

 

Sounds exactly like mine. Never happens except when fully warmed up.

I have a set of COP complete with harness. Guess I gotta get busy and make the damned hold down plate so I can swap those in and see if it helps.

 

No autotune. Don't have a super clean log of it yet.

 

Am I right in assuming its an ignition issue because its a abrupt loss of power. Where if an injector were failing it wouldn't be as abrupt.

 

Don't make assumptions. That will leave you chasing your tail and not getting to the bottom of this. Test, measure, datalog, etc. A scope and datalogging is probably all you need to diagnose this issue.

 

I agree. if I could get the damn thing to be consistent. I'll post more info when I can make it repeatable.