These are way to nice looking for my car

 

So those are the delrins and polys that you're going to put the bronze bushings in?

I need to do something like this, I hate my polys.

--Ian

 

No bronze in the delrin. But yes in the poly.

 

I'll just leave this here for now. More updates and pictures tomorrow at work.



I can change my shocks without pulling the long bolt. No binding.

 

clean your sway bar, its dirty

 

Its all too clean, its freaking me out.

@18psi would be proud.

 

i am
Atta boy

 

Bunch more pictures. Install is going well so far. Needed to borrow a big drill to bore out the Delrin but otherwise got everything else done. Drilled and tapped all the arms except the RUCA for zerks (need to test clearance on that one. I can't get over how good these things look.

Rear bearings pressed in, waiting on arp studs before the hubs go back in. Also repacking my front hubs with CV2.

ABS lines are a bitch, nothing fits right, and I'm tempted to just start from scratch. They don't bend well and everything is all sorts of tangled up.

I also got my oil pressure and both temp sensors installed, and some pigtails made for them. Waiting for some sleeving to come before I put the wiring in for good. Also bought like 500ft of TXL 22 gauge wire for all the sensors and ABS sensors.

And moar pictures for you guys. Including some install pics and press pictures.

 

Bushings look great. I am excited to put my set on the car.

 

I'm assuming that shot of the rear upright in the press is part of a bearing change operation? What bearings & grease did you decide to go with?

 

Timken from rockauto, i didn't pull them apart.

Fronts will be repacked OEMs (following your awesome guide G) with CV2.

I have a spare upright from my auction car, and a couple spare front hubs that will go with me in the track spares box.

 

Cool, I was also thinking Timkin, but I'll repack them with Dominator. Access to a press and my crippling laziness are the only reason I haven't tackled my rears yet. Now that Monk and I are talking about doing a swap, I might just wait and do it while they are out of the car and I have spares on hand. Depending on how we do the swap.

Im glad the guide is helping people. Someday I need to go back and take a couple pics to fill in the blanks and get a mod to edit the OP.

 

It was pretty easy.

Ironically I used the "How to replace your wheel bearings without a press" but substituted a press for a hammer. No way in hell these would have hammered back in, the press was working hard.

These uprights were from the midwest and were disgusting. The powdercoater was able to tape off the bore, and just sandblast the inner circlip grove, omg it was nice. Getting the rusted c-clip out was the hardest part.

Keep your old bearings. A 3" exhaust pipe is a smidgen too small to push the bearing into the bore. So you use your old bearing as another anvil.

 

Motherfukin abs brackets aren't the same. God damn it. This is going to get ugly.

Otherwise more pretty stuff.

 

What brackets? The ones that support the wires on their journey across the suspension and into the car? Zip ties mostly solve that.

--Ian

 

I have an MSM abs block and a 99-00 bracket. They look similar, but one is a lot longer. Just ordered a bunch of steel sheet to extend and modify this bracket....after it just got back from powder coating :(

 

Ian, can you link me the line and fittings you bought. I want to be prepared for these lines not fitting right.

 

Any chance you could measure how long the front passenger brake line is?

 

I bought line from these guys:

Fedhill brake line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings

You want 3/16"/4.75mm tubing and flare nuts with SAE flares and metric (10mm x 1.0) threads.

I didn't actually need to make any new lines from scratch, everything fit (but then, I was doing NB2 into NB1, not NB2 into NA6). When I first did the ABS install, all my lines were the OEM 2003 lines except for the ABS-to-passenger-rear line. I have the OEM line for that, but there was no way in hell it was going in with the motor+tranny still in the car. Instead I took the OEM front-to-rear line (went to the OEM prop valve), re-bent it to go over to the ABS unit instead, cut it off, flare the end, and connected it directly to the ABS unit. I spent a couple hours planning it out, the actual doing took like 5 minutes. So I didn't need any of my fedhill parts, because I reused the OEM flare nut once I'd cut off the line.

You'll want a proper bending tool if you're going to do this, the cunifer stuff that fedhill sells can be bent by hand fairly easily, but the OEM lines are steel and much stiffer.

Later I swapped in a 1" 929 master cylinder, which required making custom lines to go from the master to the prop valve. I used the fedhill tubing for that. I also used a bunch of the fedhill stuff to practice my flares on.

You also want a flaring tool that doesn't suck. The HF ones suck, I have a bluepoint (low-end Snap-on brand) that looks like the HF one, but is much less crap. When I did the 929 master cylinder swap on Jason's car I borrowed a hydraulic flaring tool from another friend. It was awesome, but very spendy, similar to this one:

Heavy Duty Depot: Eastwood, 11535 ? Mastercool Universal Hydraulic Flaring Kit

--Ian

 

Pretty short, but very twisted. No way to measure it without taking it out (I ain't doing that, sorry), but basically it just goes down the fender, bends around into the wheel well, and terminates at the bracket. I would guess it's no more than 3 feet long.

--Ian