Best shot I have of the bracket is this one:



Sorry, this was from before the time I started obsessively taking pictures of everything.

Call up a junkyard and see what they want for an NB2 ABS bracket? I can't imagine the MSM one is unique.

--Ian

 

I'm borrowing a good flaring tool from yank. And a good bending tool. But the lines are just not working right. I kind of want to get that cunifer line and run it through the cowl. Would clean it up nicely.

 

I have called around. Nobody has that bracket. It's like they all just tossed them when stripping the car. I bought some thin gauge metal plate and will be modding the one I have.

Thanks for the picture. I'll probably bend a line from scratch for that front right side. If you have a chance could you maybe just run some wire along it and give me a ballpark measurement?

 

Oh and since I know your car is on the lift how bout a picture of your abs sensor wire routing. You went up the PPF correct?

 

Is this the nut I need?

10mmx 1.0 Fine thread, male steel nut with non threaded lead, SAE (double) and DIN (bubble) flare, 17mm long.

Found this on amazon prime. probably going to go that way.


Also need to get some rubber gromets for running it through the cowl.

 

I did, it seemed easier than trying to get the wires through the interior and then through the firewall. It's basically just zip-tied to the other wires running down the PPF, will grab some shots.

--Ian

 

Makes sense. I have like 300ft of 22 gauge TXL. Going to lay it all out and then twist it all. wrap it in some sheathing and stick it where the sun don't shine.

All this needs to get done in 32 days.

 

OK. There's a place in Sacramento that usually seems to have at least a couple Miatas in the process of being torn down, I've gotten stuff by requesting them to take specific parts off and send them to me. That's how I got the pigtail harness for the instrument cluster. No idea if they'd have a car with ABS though.

I think these are the guys I've used:

1999 MAZDA MIATA MX5 PARTING OUT (that particular car is obviously not a useful one, but they usually have several in stock)

I'll try the wire approach.

--Ian

 

I already started cutting up the 2 brackets. I'll make it work. I have some spare cluster pigtails.

 

I used the "M5-3" nuts that they sell, in the "#18 nut pack". I'm not sure what the difference is between those and the "M1-3" nut you listed, the only spec difference is the 1mm longer overall length, but...

I dunno anything about that Amazon line, but if it's sold as brake line then it should be fine.

Why are you running it through the cowl?

--Ian

 

Because its cleaner, and its already a mess of lines behind the engine.

Got some rubber grommets, will just do a 180 out of the "prop valve" thingie, into the cowl. And then out the cowl on the other side. I should be able to get all 3 lines in there (f-abs, r-abs, abs-fl)

 

This is a long shot but he may have that bracket laying around. Not too far from me and he owes me a favor. I could drop it in the mail if he has it.

 

Shoot him a message and see if he has it. I need the whole bracket. You can see in Ians picture how it is 2 pieces. 1 piece that bolts to the frame and another that bolts the the abs block.

Let me know what he says, otherwise I'll just chop this one up.

 

Trans fluid. Changed it before MRLS, should I change again before track season? Or halfway through. How does sitting without driving treat trans fluid?

 

yes, yes. It drains away from the gears up high out of the bath and takes a few miles for the synchros to get lubed back up, at least mine do. Evey time the car sits for more than a month my 3rd gear problem come back until the syncromesh crap works its way back into everything.

 

So yes to changing before track season? Need @Savington to email me back about that bottle of amsoil.

 

yes before, yes half way through. But to be honest, I dont change mine until 3rd starts grinding again, or every 4 track seasons, give or take...

 

Slowly chipping away.

Other front suspension mostly installed.

both front hubs now repacked. Waiting on f-body ARP studs before hubs go back in.

Hood vent and tow hook reinstalled.

 

Some photos of the wire routing -- dunno how useful this is, but I shot 'em so I might as well post 'em.

Staring up into the passenger rear wheel well:



Pan towards the center of the car slightly:



Driver's rear wheel well:



Panning to the center:



Just in front of the diff:



Looking forwards:



Basically the driver's side wire routes through the tunnel that the parking brake cables go through to get over to the passenger side, then joins up with the passenger side wire near the charcoal canister. They route behind that over to the center, then along the PPF to the front of the car, then up along the brake lines to the ABS unit.

--Ian

 

Thanks