Sweet, bookmarked, thanks! (Even though it wasn't meant for me)

 

Grommet for the O2 sensor wiring



Finally got some SFI padding. Same stick will be going on the other side.

 

Talking **** with @afm got me thinking that I wanted a coolant pressure sensor. Just another idiot light in case something goes wrong. So I got out the JB weld and made something happen

 

thats some light colored JB weld. I need me a TIG.

 

Its special aluminum jb weld.

 

Sensors on sensors on sensors! Great progress!

 

Machine shop says they should be done next Wednesday. I'll probably take Thursday/Friday off work. And try and have it running by the end of the weekend.

 

Curious - why drill a dedicated O2 sensor wiring hole when you have a huge gaping hole above it with plenty or room?

Was it a spur of the moment thing?
Were you caught up in a "drilling frenzy" once you had a power tool in your hands?
Did you just want to protect the wires with a rubber grommet?

Also, does it allow the centre console to fit back in place? (or don't you use it so don't care?)

 

I actually meticulously planned that hole. I used to run it through the other hole. And bolting the rubber boot back down would put a nice kink in the wire. It actually even broke a wire on my first o2 sensor. I then wrapped it in a bunch more electrical tape and it kind of worked.

I like this way a lot more. And yes, the center console fits.

 

You can put a channel into the base plate of the boot instead of just smashing the wires.

 

Considered that. Didn't like it.

I actually bought a step drill specifically large enough for that hole so I did think about it. This was cleaner imo.

 

Don't listen to these guys, you did the right thing. Grommet protection is better.

 

Went over to @oregonmon's place so he could work some magic on my new hood. Single stage paint can shine. Too bad the rest of the paint looks like ***. Maybe i'll try and make it over when the car is running.






Did some injector rehab




Question time. Can anybody learn me some valve clearances. I know how to check them, but what should I be shooting for? Middle of the factory spec, tight? Loose?

 

I typically go for the tight end of the spec on the theory that as long as it's within the spec it's fine, and the tight end is slightly more valve lift thus slightly more power.

--Ian

 

Thats what I've been seeing from what I've read too.

Now just need to hope supertech has the shims i need.

 

Hood is impressive



Cat play set is more impressive

 

Same for me, I use the lower 1/2 of the spec.

Just finished a head, advice is measure several times + recheck the measurement. Use real gauges/micrometers and if possible have them calibrated or do it yourself with a gage block. Tenths matter.

 

Gauges/micrometers for what? Measuring clearances?

 

Oops, forgot, you're starting from scratch... I stuck with SOB instead so needed to measure current shims.

EDIT: Never having done the swap over, I'd think you'd need to measure your current setup, by valve and compare the stock measurements against the Supertech setup (I don't have the stock length for the buckets) and order the applicable Supertech lash caps for each valve (assuming you aren't going to touch up the stem ends). So, my original mention of having a good set of gauges or micrometer is the same.

 

I'm starting from complete scratch. So valves+subs. Nothing else. I'll measure clearance without any shim, and see what I need. Then order 16 shims.

I really need the motor back. I'm starting to make up projects. Found a place for a trans temp sensor on the second try. This is my spare trans, so it got plugged for now.