Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Yup. Doesn't drip while sitting. But a decent coating is getting flung off from the damper.
Plan is to replace the front crank seal with OEM and clean up all the oil. Then go from there.
Plan is to replace the front crank seal with OEM and clean up all the oil. Then go from there.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Oil pump is RTV'd according to the FSM.
I'm not sure yet. Its too hard to tell where its coming from with the damper throwing the oil everywhere.
I'm not sure yet. Its too hard to tell where its coming from with the damper throwing the oil everywhere.
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
For your sake, i hope its the crank seal. Easy fix.
But i cant see BE using such a shitty seal that it leaks on the first drive. Maybe it was installed poorly by them...who knows. Im just hoping i don't have any issues on my first start up in a few weeks.
But i cant see BE using such a shitty seal that it leaks on the first drive. Maybe it was installed poorly by them...who knows. Im just hoping i don't have any issues on my first start up in a few weeks.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Found one of the sources of oil. There may be more.
Allen plug was finger tight with no sealant. Oil was weeping out pretty good. dropped the alternator, pulled the plug out. Going to seall it up with some rtv.
Allen plug was finger tight with no sealant. Oil was weeping out pretty good. dropped the alternator, pulled the plug out. Going to seall it up with some rtv.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Yes. Pull the alternator belt, let it flop to the side. And you can pull it out easily with an allen key.
I cleaned both threads. Smeared RTV on the plug and retorqued it. Letting it dry for an hour or 2 then testing it out.
I cleaned both threads. Smeared RTV on the plug and retorqued it. Letting it dry for an hour or 2 then testing it out.
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Mines still on the stand. Was buttoning things up after putting the head on today. Same front seal BTW...
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
I'd definitely check the plug. And I would also consider replacing it with an oem front seal.
I will know in a few hours if that was my leak
I will know in a few hours if that was my leak
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 514
Total Cats: -10
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Oem crank seal next?
If you dont trust yourself:
https://www.flyinmiata.com/front-seal-installer.html
If you dont trust yourself:
https://www.flyinmiata.com/front-seal-installer.html
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I have one of those FM seal installers, something tells me you've already got one though.
Did you remember the o-ring? AC bracket bolt? Half moon seal? RTV on both sides of half moon seal?
Did you remember the o-ring? AC bracket bolt? Half moon seal? RTV on both sides of half moon seal?
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Yes to all of Josh's questions. Its definitely coming from the passenger front corner. The driver front corner is totally dry.
And maybe. I leave for a week tomorrow. I'll come back and dig into it a bit more.
Im not going to pull it all apart just yet. Spent 10 minutes today to find the allen plug leak, going to try and trace it a bit further and see whats up. The oil being thrown around by the damper doesn't help much.
Still went on another long drive. Took it up to 8k finally. Went so rich it broke up haha. But man it sounds angry up there.
And maybe. I leave for a week tomorrow. I'll come back and dig into it a bit more.
Im not going to pull it all apart just yet. Spent 10 minutes today to find the allen plug leak, going to try and trace it a bit further and see whats up. The oil being thrown around by the damper doesn't help much.
Still went on another long drive. Took it up to 8k finally. Went so rich it broke up haha. But man it sounds angry up there.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Found the only two pictures I took when sealing the oil pan. Anything look off?
Does it look like I missed any spots?
Followed these steps for sealing the pan.
Does it look like I missed any spots?
Followed these steps for sealing the pan.
- With rear main plate installed and oil pump installed, make sure the entire bottom mating surface of the block is clean. Use something strong like brake cleaner or acetone.
- Apply a continuous bead of permatex ultra grey all the way around bottom. Making sure to stay on the inside of all the oil pan bolt holes.
- Apply both rubber gaskets to the main seal plate and oil pump.
- Put a bead on top of each so that each end of the bead connects to the previous bead you laid.
- Next put on the windage tray.
- Apply another bead on the top edge of it on both sides. Again, making sure that each end of the bead makes contact with the original bead you laid down.
- Put on the oil pan.
- Bolt down bolts from the inside out to, I believe, 10FtLbs. Go over it a few times to make sure they are all to the correct tq.
Don't listen to the bs about not putting silicone on the rubber gaskets. If you use ultra grey it basically bonds to it like glue. It will create a nearly permanent seal.
If you make 100% sure that all surfaces are completely clean and dry by using an industrial cleaner I will guarantee that it will never leak from the pan edge. I mean NEVER. Also, it will be hard as hell to remove once dry even if you wanted to take it off.
- Apply a continuous bead of permatex ultra grey all the way around bottom. Making sure to stay on the inside of all the oil pan bolt holes.
- Apply both rubber gaskets to the main seal plate and oil pump.
- Put a bead on top of each so that each end of the bead connects to the previous bead you laid.
- Next put on the windage tray.
- Apply another bead on the top edge of it on both sides. Again, making sure that each end of the bead makes contact with the original bead you laid down.
- Put on the oil pan.
- Bolt down bolts from the inside out to, I believe, 10FtLbs. Go over it a few times to make sure they are all to the correct tq.
Don't listen to the bs about not putting silicone on the rubber gaskets. If you use ultra grey it basically bonds to it like glue. It will create a nearly permanent seal.
If you make 100% sure that all surfaces are completely clean and dry by using an industrial cleaner I will guarantee that it will never leak from the pan edge. I mean NEVER. Also, it will be hard as hell to remove once dry even if you wanted to take it off.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
I guess it technically could be leaking around outside the o ring. I would be surprised though.
I definitely remembered the o-ring. The second time around. It was a pain in the *** to keep in the groove while i installed it. Ended up with a dab of rtv to keep it in place while i got everything lined up.
I definitely remembered the o-ring. The second time around. It was a pain in the *** to keep in the groove while i installed it. Ended up with a dab of rtv to keep it in place while i got everything lined up.
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