You are merely an apprentice of destruction. The master is bbundy.

--Ian

 

Someday...

 

I love this place.

@thumpetto007 I owe you one.



I'll pass the favor along.

 

I forget how much I paid BMC race for the 304ss flange I bought. The milled transition is worth it if I paid $200 or whatever it is. IIRC they'll do whatever material, you just have to pay for it. I wouldnt do a mild steel flange.

 

I'm gonna get 316. Should be easy to draw up. I'll either bug deezums to mill it for me or find someone local.

 

I hope you will use it, I saw that post where you said you have to borrow one. I figured you would put it to good use. <3

 

I'll crew chief your car at MRLS. I'll handle tire temps and pressures while you fiddle with Vlad.

 

Haha ok, just not too much, you have your own car to run! I havent been to the track ever in a miata, so im guessing ill be going pretty slowly. Hopefully Ill learn vehicle dynamics fast enough to get the tires up to get the most grip.

What run group are you in? Im in D both days.

 

I'm in C on Saturday.

 

I'm trying to do some more math here.

Am I wrong in thinking I can get a built long block for less than $2k if I DIY it.

Rods 242
Pistons/Rings 460
Boundary Pump 400
Bore/Hone 200
Head gasket 26
Bearings 160
Hot tank? 100
Block paint 20

Valve cover powdercoat 60
intake manifold powdercoat 60


Oil drain 40
Engine gaskets ??

Thats like $1750 right there. I don't know how much the gaskets will be but it seems like its getting close.

Any objections?

 

No objections, only dreams.

I love the emoticon Hailey posted on your turbo pic on instagram. Though I think she'll turn that frown upside down in a couple weeks...

 

Throw in a skunk2, and maybe new injectors. Call it good.

 

gaskets and wp and tb
..and I never reinstall the head without at least a really light mill. $40

 

ooh. forgot about the wp. Probably a gates timing belt too.

 

Oil pump...shims...

What is recommended?

 

Spoke to Boundary.

Stage 2 is about 15% more flow than Stage 0 with VVT.

Stage 0 with VVT: $240
Stage 2: $400

So my question is. Are oil pumps reusable, even after a bearing went toast. Seems like the only way the gears make sense is if I had already bought a new oil pump. Otherwise I'd only be saving like $40. (assuming $140 oil pump)

 

No, IMO. You have flushed so much garbage through the pump that the relief bore is almost certainly scored to hell. I have tried to reuse them once after a piston failure and it did not go well (the motor came back out, pan came off, oil pump was replaced after it refused to build pressure in built motor #2). If it does build pressure in your new motor, it may not someday. Not worth the risk, IMO. Best case is you catch it on startup one morning and you have to redo the entire job. Worst case, you destroy the new motor too.

ARP mains are a required item as well, IMO. I am doing a "rods only" build for Rover's S1 motor right now and I skipped the BE pump for cost reasons but did ARP mains. You can skip the head studs if you want, although if you want to use that 6758 as intended, I wouldn't.

 

Thanks for the input Andrew. Looks like stage 2 it is.

Forgot to mention that I do have ARP mains. Bought them from @OneTwo a while ago for some reason.

Picked up a vibrant drain flange from Andrew yesterday. Nice deal.

Grabbed like 4 1/2NPT bungs off eBay. Will be practicing welding them into my spare pan.

Still need to unbox Andrews old precision intercooler at some point. Should be fun to fit.

ARP head studs are so easy to install that I dont need them right away.

Well there goes the "rods" only build idea. Talking to hailey today and she told me to do it right once. And not to half *** it and have to redo it.

 

Hailey seems like a good partner.

Maybe someday I'll find my wench.

 

She perfect

You will probably meet her at mrls