dat hop doe

What passed you in the 2nd vid? Was moving like a rocketship

 

<p>Some sort of DSM I think, maybe 1G. I got real excited because he was one of the top cars in my class and I had him beat for most of it and then suddenly he passed me doing like 150.</p><p>I wish I had video from when the GTR and I raced. I beat him off the line and then he was gone. 4 seconds ahead of me.</p>

 

<p>2 questions:</p><p>1. Its driving now, and when I get it up to speed I get a noise from the back that sounds like running water. Diff noise? I have delrin bushings.</p><p>2. I got these adjustable end link thingyies from curly. How do I use them....Install them in the middle setting and go for it?</p>

 

The adjustable end links are pretty useful. There are a number of things you can do with them:

1. Ideally, the sway bar end should be parallel to the ground when the car is sitting on the ground. With a lowered car and OEM end links, the sway bar end will normally be pointing up. The adjustables let you fix that.

2. For road course work, you would like the sway bars to be unloaded when the car is at race weight (including the driver in the seat). The ability to change end link length side-to-side lets you accomplish that.

3. For drag racing or circle track, you may want to preload one side or the other. Again, the ability to change end link length side-to-side gives you that ability.

 

awesome, that info combined with the 949 installation video gives me a good idea of how to use them

 

I found with the front sway, they needed to be at their shortest length to keep the bar parallel. Do that, and don't ever touch them. You're years, if not decades, of driving experience away from requiring a end link change to decrease lap times or feel a difference in setup. They're a quality part that allows the sway to move properly, but don't spend time adjusting the length.

 

<p>^^^What i actually needed to hear. I bought these mostly because last time I looked at my front end links the rubber bushings were about half gone. Thanks.</p>

 

For road course work, I agree.

But for drag racing . . . you might want to experiment with preloading your unloaded rear wheel to see if you can get a more consistent launch.

 

<p>Hmmm, tempting. I need to go back to the drag strip on low boost and work on my launch. Issue is I only have 2 of these...I feel like they will be more usefull on the front.</p><p>I need to stop taking it to the drag strip. My gf's dad has a built 440 hemi that he said I can have if I get something to put it in. Time to build a muscle car instead?</p>

 

<p>@18psi</p><p>Here is the video of that car passing me</p><p>Turbo Miata IFO 2015 (Wheelhop madness) - YouTube</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

440 Hemi?

The OEM displacement for the 2nd generation Hemi was 426. The OEM 440 engine was a wedge. Unless we're talking about some kind of Frankenstein motor.

 

cant wait to get home to watch

 

<p>Axle nut failure:</p><p>This is for people who search about miata axle nut differences, sizes, etc.</p><p>90-95.5 (2 piece axles) Used an M18x1.5 axle nut. Uses a 1-1/8th socket, or a 29mm socket.</p><p>95.5-2005 (1 piece axles) Used a M22x1.5 axle nut. This uses a 32mm socket or the equivalent SAE socket.</p><p>M22 axle nut seems to be easy to find. M18 is harder and most likely requires a special order.</p>

 

<p></p><p>You might be right, my hemi knowledge is small, very small. All I know is its a hopped up big block that needs a muscle car to go in. I think an old charger is in my future at some point.</p>

 

 

<p>More like this</p><p><img src="http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1920x1080/80-dodge_charger_1970_black_wallpaper_hd_224ab848f820 cc874af2ae7445fff8d074c4b33b.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />I don't actually have any say in the car, I just get to build it </p>

 

I just got a Bullitt boner.

 

i posted a pic of a pinto... it was a joke

 

<p>Hey man, I used to want a pinto, 4wd converted too.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

You should build a ls based drag truck like the cool kids