Ducting is easy. Call up Savington, order a kit. Take off rotor, remove old dust shield, bolt on prawns. Clamp hose to inlet, zip tie it to the tie rod, and route to the mouth or foglight openings or whatever you have available. Done. Oh, you should probably put the rotor back on too.

--Ian

 

<p></p><p>Not really my style :/</p>

 

You have dust shields still? I had to cut the crap out of mine to fit 1.8 rotors. They're kinda dished, so fitting ducting might be hard. Plus they are aluminum if I'm not mistaken, so attaching things would be tedious...

 

<p>What are 1.8 rotors...</p><p>And rivets for attaching.</p>

 

Biggar, 1.6's had smaller diameter rotors, so to fit 1.8's you need to cut the lip off the dust shield.

edit: honestly they look pretty easy to replicate, like with cardboard and tin snips...

 

<p>Twas a joke. I'm waiting to upgrade all the way to 11.75 brakes.</p><p>Also. I feel blessed:</p><p><img src="http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1146x1171/80-uiqbifj_ac5ee2b222dbb49716c864ac9c366a7fd74f5316.p ng" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

 

How do you rivet a cylinder onto a plane at a right angle?

Anyway, you were talking about throwing money at solving the problem -- pre-made brake duct prawns are lot cheaper than a set of Wilwoods.

--Ian

 

<p>You take a cylinder, rivet angle aluminum onto it. Then rivet that to the plane.</p><p>The car eventually will get Willwoods and brake ducts. It just isn't in the budget right now, and I was hoping to wait. If I can ghetto rig for a bit I will be happy.</p>

 

<p>Carnage time </p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /></p><p>Going to be running used cobalts during the week and the track day july 3rd. I'll inspect them after that and see how much they wore. If they wear too much I will get some street pads and track pads.</p>

 

<p>The &quot;new&quot; pads have a slight taper. Which direction should I point the thick end?</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

<p>Thick end at the trailing edge, so front of the caliper. Cobalts don't need hardware apparently, they just rattle around. More carnage to come.</p>

 

<p>Right is not as bad as left</p><p></p>

 

<p>Rears have quite a bit less wear. Time to go test </p>

 

<p>Mmmmm so much better.<br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

 

If that were any other car I'd be extremely scared at that moment. I've seen so many of my employees cars where the pad backing plate is being pressed against the rotor.

 

I'm guilty of that, almost completely ground a backing plate away, there was like 1/16 of an inch left keeping the piston from rotor.

My excuse was it was a real POS truck with a slipping trans, and it was winter with no garage, I'm not lying in the friggen' snow to fix that crap lol

I lived in the middle of nowhere, passed two or three cows on my way to work. I'm not really that much of a badass

 

Aiden, those are serious track pads, none of this compromising bull ****. They will kill your rotors, the dust is corrosive, and they'll have fairly horrible wear on the street. They're for track days and occasional canyon carving.

Also, they will hold that grip from cold to hot, new to backing plate. That's the beauty of cobalts.

 

Yes sir! They're staying on for now because it have a track day in a week. After that I will get some cheapos for day to day. Good to know my issue was pads though. I measured these before putting em in and will measure when I pull them out. Then I can gauge wear.

 

<p>Any reason not to run part store pads everywhere besides the track?</p>

 

<p></p><p>When I first got my truck a few years ago the drums (yes 4 wheel drum brakes ftw) were so bad that you had to drive in the far right or left lane on the freeway so you could run into the emergency lane if someone stopped in front of you.</p>