Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
<p><span>@hornetball tell me more about axle rebuilds. You mentioned finding cv boots on rockauto but I'm not sure exactly what I need. Also need to find a good source of axle nuts.</span></p>
The inner CV joint is designed to be completely disassembled/cleaned/regreased. The outer CV joint is not meant to be disassembled -- but I have seen pictures of them apart -- not sure how it was done. When I did mine, I completely dismantled the inner CV joint for cleaning. On the outer CV joint, I did the best cleaning job I could with solvent and compressed air before repacking with grease.
Link to service procedure here: http://www.mellens.net/mazda/Mazda-M...xle_shafts.pdf
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CV joint tools? Not sure what you mean.
You do want decent snap ring pliers -- but that's useful for much more than CV joints. There's also a tool for tightening band clamps -- again, useful in general. I didn't use any other special tools.
You do want decent snap ring pliers -- but that's useful for much more than CV joints. There's also a tool for tightening band clamps -- again, useful in general. I didn't use any other special tools.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
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From: Beaverton, USA
<p></p><p>Yeah that one. I have a set of snap ring pliers from amazon so that should help there. Looking at the clamps that held the boots down it looked like some sort of crimp.</p>
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From: Cedar City, UT
Aidan buy my Garrett 2860 CHRA(needs to be sent in to be repaired) and housings and ARTech manifold and downpipe...be a boss!
The 1.6 head got pushed back to Thursday with the change of address otherwise it would have been much more expensive to ship with the address change.
The 1.6 head got pushed back to Thursday with the change of address otherwise it would have been much more expensive to ship with the address change.
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BMW guys are running higher compression with turbos because they have fancy direct injection technology. You don't. 
Whatever you decide to do, you'll want to measure your specific setup to confirm what the compression ratio is. Block deck height relative to the piston at TDC, cc the combustion chambers, etc. I didn't do that, I wish I had, because while my current motor is nominally built to the same specs as the old one, but it pings a lot sooner.
--Ian
Whatever you decide to do, you'll want to measure your specific setup to confirm what the compression ratio is. Block deck height relative to the piston at TDC, cc the combustion chambers, etc. I didn't do that, I wish I had, because while my current motor is nominally built to the same specs as the old one, but it pings a lot sooner.
--Ian
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
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<p>Hell naw. Way too high class for my blood. And no worries about the head. Since my buddy found an engine I now have a spare head.</p>
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
<p>
</p><p>My BMW friends are E30 guys. So not much better than us. </p>
BMW guys are running higher compression with turbos because they have fancy direct injection technology. You don't. <img alt="" src="images/smilies/smile.gif" title="" /> Whatever you decide to do, you'll want to measure your specific setup to confirm what the compression ratio is. Block deck height relative to the piston at TDC, cc the combustion chambers, etc. I didn't do that, I wish I had, because while my current motor is nominally built to the same specs as the old one, but it pings a lot sooner. --Ian
</p>
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Oh, OK. Two types of clamps. For a band-it clamp, you need something like this:
For the "ear" crimp clamps, you need something like this:
For the "ear" crimp clamps, you need something like this:
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
<p>
</p><p> </p><p>i use all the things, and still get disorgannized, or just forget what/where. google usually ends up finding it for me lol</p><p>anyway, you need to shop better</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACT-ZM2-XTR6...8b&vxp=mtr</p><p>http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acl-zm2-xtr6</p><p>
</p><p>so you want to save $40?</p>
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
<p></p><p> </p><p>cheap bastard tip:</p><p>get part/model number of what your looking for, whether it be a food processor, induction furnace or one of those rabbit vibrator things. seach amazon, ebay and google with part/model number, learn to sort by price. then if youre really crafty and have time on your hands, think of ways things are accidentally and commonly mispelled, or fat finger typos. i have gotten a few very $$ things just stupid cheap on ebay that way, mainly because of my own fat fingers lol.</p>
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One more thing on CV joint boots . . . before you tighten the second band clamp, squeeze the boot to force air out. This keeps them from blowing up like a balloon when they get hot. Not sure if that was in the service instruction or not.
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Google shopping requires websites to pay to be included in results nowadays, but regular google pages don't. While sorting by price is nice, I can sometimes find even cheaper prices in google pages themselves. Search everything specific, catch phrase in the product description, image search the stock photo...
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
1990 Cheap, beat, and full of mistakes build
I wasnt clear, I use Google the same way you do. I always thought Google shopping sucks and that explains why.
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