Garage is available.

Thanks man, Im just busting your chaps. The only way I could use your garage is if I drive up there, then find someone that wouldnt charge me a leg and an arm to take my car to the exhaust shop to have the DP done. Unless I do take it up there and someone knows someone that will give me a good price making a DP, but even then I will still have to find a ride back home. :facepalm:

Yup, some cheapies from advanced auto.

Dude do the thread already I have to take the front bumper off for IC fitment and to replace my fender. I could just do it then!

CHOPS man its chops, learn the language, cowboys and gay bikers wear chaps. Holy sheiit 11 pages? why dont you buy a downpipe? AAA will take your car anywhere. Theres a good exhaust shop near me, Palm Beach custom exhaust.

I meant to write CHAPS, not chops. :ugh:

Im not buying a downpipe because my manifold is a absurdflow copy, like Phil's. The DP will have to be custom made.

I dont have AAA so yeah, unless you do and you want to hookzz me up.

best thread retitle evah

Rotlmfao FIDEL!!!

Lulz

What, tell me, what is not to love about this fucking goofy cubano?

the he lives in a relatively close proximity to Hyper

Nah son. Little Havana :ne: Kendall

Update, if you could call it that. I replaced the o2 sensor and now my WB works, yay!!!. On another note my afrs have Parkinson. I drilled the turbo flange to make room for 10 mm studs; then I couldn't clock the fucking thing so that the oil feed is in the top, and the drain at the bottom. I loosened the turbine side bolts hoping it will turn independently of the middle, but it doesn't. Now, can I leave as is to avoid frying the feed line since the manifold is a bottom mount? I also have a 90* fitting for the drain, will it be a probelm not to have the drain pointing down directly?

Also for those of you that have sandwich plates, how do you keep them from leaking? I put thread lock and I have a dropplet leak. Thank you gays, hopefuly this bitching and streak of fails will come to an end soon.

Try teflon tape or a magnum condom. I know you have both.

So any input on the drain and feed?? :ugh: anyone

Where is the oil feed and drain? Pics
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The sandwich plate must be leaking from the flange gasket, where the oil filter gasket usually is, right? This seems pretty impossible. Make sure the flange is 100% clean and without ridges (gouges) on it, then tighten the bushing holding it on reasonably. Does the flange gasket look nice and clean and flat?

On the feed/drain, you should hope for more experienced input than mine, but if the feed and drain are directly inline with each other, ie level with the ground, I think this is highly undesirable. If it's at all like mine, the way it's clocked all the ports are canted somewhat off of parallel/perpendicular with the ground. So, one of my water ports is lower than the other. If yours is like mine, subbing in oil for water, your drain is a bit lower than the feed, you may be ok. Just make sure the sweep in the drain is nice and sloped down toward the pan, it might work out for you.

Knowing the environment I work in, whereby I have to move kid's toys and cases of beer around to work, I can't imagine how it looks where you are working. I get the picture of you working with the standard housewife's household tool kit right there in your apartment parking lot. Why don't you go work in Hyper's taj magarage?

I haz no camera, but is easy to picture. The turbo originally is clocked with the manifold flange at a 90* of the feed and drain. For this manifold I need the feed/ and drain in parallel with the manifold flange.

When I try to clock the turbo the turbine turns with the middle altogether. At first both i loosen the bolts in both, the compressor and turbine, sides. Then When I saw it wasnt working the way I thought it would I tighten the compressor side hoping it would keep the middle locked, but it didnt.How can I get the eithe the middle or the turbine to spin independently?? WD40?? BFH??

Webby- about the sandwhich plate, is not leaking from the filter connection, but from the fitting of the sensor. I used thread lock, I think I need RTV, or Ill JB weld the fucking thing.

1. Unbolt compressor housing
2. Remove compressor housing from CHRA
3. Unbolt turbine housing
4. Remove turbine housing from CHRA
5. Reinstall CHRA into turbine housing in correct position so that oil inlet is straight up.
6. Re bolt turbine housing
7. Reinstall compressor housing in desired position
8. Re bolt compressor housing
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I've been using this:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

What kind of thread is on the fitting, NPT or straight thread? If it's NPT, some of the sealant and a reasonable torque should cover it. If it's straight threaded, and doesn't have an o-ring land, you should get something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

If it does have an oring land, then this:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...85068erl&dds=1

Don't JB Weld. That's ghetto, or Cuban as we say where I'm from.